If you want to hear about (one of) my most recommended books – it’s this one, right here. This series blew me away. I don’t know what I expected but what I got was amazing characters, truly interesting mysteries and a perfect balance of both. Even if mysteries aren’t typically your “thing” pick this up!
Can’t help it, guys, I love these books. I actually started this series on book #4 and was smitten with it. Here are some of my favorite things about this series: 1) The language – I am certain that Raybourn has a BLAST writing these books. The time period allows her to be flowery, even overly so. She uses the subtleties of archaic language to say the most absurd and downright naughty things. I constantly find myself giggling at it. 2) The play with time – I love how these books are set in the 1800s but the protagonist doesn’t quite fit. She is a protagonist of the now and her witty remarks are gold in these stories 3) The partnership – Stoker and Veronica are adorable and make me snicker-giggle constantly.
The story itself is lovely as well, but it’s really about the people and the writing. I’ve enjoyed the stories immensely.
I’ve read this book twice now and it is truly incredible. It has everything – every twist and turn you can imagine. It’s the story of a young girl told by an old one where you can feel the truth of it but with the knowing eye of an old woman looking back. This is a book where horrible, terrible things can happen to the characters and somehow you still want their lives. This book is magic wrapped up in one neat little package and now I can’t say anything else without just positively gushing.
Gilman is a forgotten rock star of mysteries and I recommend this one AND all Mrs. Polifax!
I took a risk on buying this book with only a short synopsis read. I was very pleasantly surprised. It has a truly interesting and unique premise, a great main character, solid support characters, and some really interesting stories. The best part was that I legitimately didn’t know where the story was going – not when it came to friends, love interests, what was going to happen next, or, of course, “who dun it.” The whole series is a great read.
Complex without being confusing, unique without being unbelievable, and horrifying without being gross. Great characters who have enough of their own issues to be interesting but not so much so that they are distracting. I truly didn’t guess the ending.
So, so many reasons to love this book. Let me list them for you! 1) Veronica Mars – anyone who has watched the series (and it’s horrible mid-cancellation) practically wets themselves when there is anything new that comes out. It’s with good reason. All the new Veronica Mars stuff has been fan-tastic. 2) The audio book is read by Kristen Bell – okay, this time I did wet myself. No shame. 3) It’s actually a good story – the book reads just like an episode; and I mean that in a good way. It’s fast-paced with a good mixture of characterization and crime action. The story keeps you guessing but doesn’t put you in the dark either. It was a quick read without being skimpy.
This book is what I love about chick-lit. It’s silly and sassy and exciting and a read that you can breeze through in just a few days. I’m a firm believer that a story you can get sucked into – silly or not – is a fun story. Yes, this is dated and I don’t really have a thing for Russians – but I am glad I picked up this book.
I would love your recommendations for what else should be on this list!
I am a no-shame RomCom lover and is there a better time to get into a few of these fun, delightful reads than in the midst of a global pandemic? I think not!
Boyfriend Material by Alexis Hall SO funny. Literally laughing out loud on multiple occasions. It’s cute if a few part of the trope seem a little forced but the force of these characters – Luc and Oliver are so relatable and believable. Top notch read.
The Ex Talk by Rachel Lynn Solomon What really sells me on a romance novel is when the trope works – like really, really works. The Ex Talk nails it. This spins the “fake relationship” on it’s head by creating a “fake break-up” (like, omg, so cute) and it totally makes sense why these two characters did why they did, why they had to make the choices about the relationship they did – it’s gold. And it’s funny! A true rom com! The transcripts of their radio show had me guffawing.
Take a Hint, Dani Brownby Talia Hibbert Gold. This one, guys, is GOLD. It’s steamy, it’s hysterical. Zan and Dani are so good. Their dialogue is amazing, their interactions are perfect, and their troubles are real.
Beach Read by Emily Henry Honestly just so good. Excellent banter, real life issues… you laugh, your cry, and you can 1000% picture this as a Lifetime movie (in all the best ways)
The Bromance Book Club and Undercover Bromance by Lyssa Kay Adams What do I look for in a romance novel? 1) Giggles 2) Spicy scenes that’ll make me squirmy 3) At least a little bit of heart This series had all of that and then some. What amazing books. I seriously guffawed, numerous times, over the dialogue in both of these books. LOVE them.
The Friend Zone and The Happy Ever After Playlist by Abby Jimenez Another two-fer! These are both excellent books with vibrant characters who have real problems and lots of love. Plenty of giggle-worthy moments. Highly recommend.
The Roommate by Rosie Danan If books came with heat-o-meters the way you order food from your favorite Thai place, this would have at least 5 little chili peppers. This book is on FIRE. The voices of Clara and Josh are perfect. Their attraction and sexy-times are out of this world and wholly unique to what you’d find elsewhere. It’s a very dirty novel that is also very much a true Rom Com. Such a fun and unique storyline, I couldn’t get enough. There’s a real plot here, folks, and it’s a good one on top of everything else.
Tweet Cute by Emma Lord So. aptly. named. The characters are in high school so definitely YA but delightful nonetheless. A+ banter and, well, cuteness.
My (Not So) Perfect Life by Sophie Kinsella Sophie Kinsella is pretty much my idol. I have adored multiple of her books but this is one of the latest and also one of my favorites. It’s light but also one that will speak to you.
Well Met by Jen DeLuca Heaaaaarts, rainbowsssss, and sunshine. That’s what I feel about this book. I adored it. I giggled – a LOT. The characters are delightful, the setting adorable, there’s some very satisfying sexy time and ogling, etc, etc. Basically, it was right up my alley and I highly recommend.
Anna and the French Kiss by Stephanie Perkins Okay, so first off, any NaNoWriMo book has a special place in my heart. But on top of this, it’s an adorable YA novel with a great setting and unique circumstances. While not perfect, it’s cute and easy to get into. Bonus – it’s a series and the rest are adorable too!
The UnHoneymooners by Christina Lauren Is there a better trope than two dissimilar people somehow ending up on a vacation together? I THINK NOT.
Evvie Drake Starts Over by Linda Holmes This one is a bit deeper than you typical RomCom but I really liked not only the premise but the characters. It felt really authentic and had the main protagonists communicating like I think real humans would actually communicate (shocking!)
Red, White, & Royal Blue by Casey McQuinston Mainstream LBTQ? Ugh, love it. That being said, this was a little too Disney ending for me but at the end of the day, that’s not a complaint.
The Simple Wild by K.A. Tucker Confession people – I have RE-READ this one. I knooow! Mostly for one particularly epic scene involving a cabin and a yeti… this book gets delightfully spicy but doesn’t cross into the true “romance” category.
The Rosie Project by Graeme Simsion I really enjoy the new flavor of the main character. He’s not your standard knight in shining armor – it’s endearing and energizing to see a new kind of protagonist, one with a “social handicap” so-to-speak. In that respect this story has some truly deeper ideas about love, how it manifests, as our expectations of ourselves AND others.
Bridget Jones’s Diary by Helen Fielding An oldie but a goodie. Are there issues here (re: weight concerns that are sooo not concerns, etc)? Yes. But I love the writing style immensely.
What am I missing? What should be my next RomCom read?
Headed to La Fortuna? Never fear – we tested out just about every ice cream option in town and can recommend our absolute favorites here:
ONE: The Guy in the Square
Ok, so, to be fair, this isn’t “ice cream”. It’s shaved ice with condensed milk and your flavors -we got raspberry and coconut and I just about went to heaven. Stir it up, drink it up, all walk walking around the square. What’s it called? I’ve heard all kinds but we just ended up calling it a “Copa”.
TWO: Kiwi Caffee Gelato
Slightly off the beaten path but not far (considering you can easily walk every single block of this town in a single afternoon), it’s not the first ice cream spot you likely found but it’s definitely one to get to. It’s full service, cute, and had some legit flavors! Unique and very friendly.
THREE: Unnamed? Near Pollo Fortuneno
Ok – I’ve googled, I even have a picture of the place (not very good, but it’s there) and I still have no idea what it’s called. Honestly, even when we walked in there was almost left because there was no one at the counter… but then someone from chicken place like… hopped the counter and served us. It was strange, but the gelato was excellent and the seating adorable. So – worth it!
If you’re in Costa Rica – you’ve seen a Pops. They’re everywhere! While not the most creative ice cream I’ve ever had, they are a solid option and were the ones open latest in town when we were there – so that’s always a plus.
Definitely our least favorite option. Don’t get me wrong, the product wasn’t bad, but the rum raisin was definitely skimping on the raisins, the flavors were only mildly creative, and they had a very string NO SAMPLE policy (excuuuuuse me?). Good in a pinch but I better be able to have a taste before I buy, I’m just saying
San Jose – Honorable Mention – Helados de Sorbetera
So, if you’re headed to La Fortuna then you will likely find yourself in San Jose at some point. If so, you need to find Helados de Sorbetera. Super authentic counter service that was packed to the gills and uniquely wonderful!
In January 2020, Marjorie and I threw money at a tour company called G Adventures and jetted off to Costa Rica. It was somewhat of an experiment after our Bucket List Galapagos Adventure. We both knew nothing could top Galapagos – but could this come close? And would we find value is someone doing all the planning for us (instead of the intense heavy lifted we did ourselves for Ecuador)?
TL; DR – 3/5 stars overall.Enjoyed our time, would not do a tour again.
First you might be wondering – what the heck is this? G Adventures is a one stop shop – you pay, you fly, you follow the leader. Check it out here.
Day 0: Car Rental and Quepos
Okay so we couldn’t resist a little self planning. We arrived one day early, met in the airport, and then we were off like a rocket. We decided to test the waters with a car rental. (This was a BIG DEAL for two city women who very rarely drive and don’t own cars)
We chose Adobe Car Rental after reading a fantastic review from My Tan Feet. My Tan Feet were SO helpful in the booking and understanding-what’s-next process – I highly recommend you use them as your jumping off point if you plan on renting a car in Costa Rica. Additionally, Adobe Car Rental was top notch. Excellent customer service (English/Spanish) and the worker came to the car with me, checked it, helped me adjust everything, etc. Top notch service I’ve never received with any other car rental company.
We jumped right on the highway and took the 3-ish hour drive down the coast to our ultimate destination – Quepos. For anyone squeamish about driving abroad – this stretch of road was pristine. Yes, some people liked to pass aggressively but there was nothing nerve wracking about it in the least.
Quepos is a cute little spot and we arrived in the midst of a political rally -which sounds ominous but was actually more of a street fest that was really fun to walk around in. We grabbed some ice cream at Pops (a chain that is everywhere in Costa Rica. Not bad but not drool-worthy. Think Chocolate Shoppe or Cold Stone, maybe?) and enjoyed the boardwalk.
We stayed at Las Cascadas in a room up in the canopy. It had an amazing view but no screens (sigh) so we had to stay huddled away since it was dark and giant bugs were not invited to our sleepover. Also the trek up to the room was at least a 50 degree angle, it was intense. Overall, the space was cute but the room and restaurant felt something to be desired. I wouldn’t recommend this place but suggest another!
Day 1: Quepos and San Jose
The following day we heavily debated – do we go to Manuel Antonio or the Spice Farm? We decided a lot of nature was in our future and, even though I’m sure Manuel Antonio is amazing – we skipped it in favor of Villa Vanilla. And, look for anyone who has been in Central or South America, we found this to be a real treat. We’ve see cocoa, we’ve seen coffee, but this to me was truly unique. It’s a very small operation with a jungle of variety of plants. It was educational, beautiful, unhurried, and delicious. I highly recommend this tour.
Instead of trying to shove too much into one day, we hopped back in the car and made it to San Jose for our orientation. Looking back – and with some knowledge, I would have done this totally differently. Our hotel in San Jose was nothing to brag about (El Sesteo). Some rooms didn’t have air conditioning, some did, but all were depressing. The courtyard was cute but it was definitely not a place I would have chosen on my own. Location was fine, but not great either… and here begins the reason why tours are just not my thing. I hate feeling like the money I put into the tour wasn’t used the way I would have used it. That might not be fair, but it’s true.
We had orientation which, honestly, for anyone with an iota of previous travel experience, was unnecessary. We met our guide, Gabriel, who was a lovely human being, but otherwise the information was general and not something that needed walking through. We learned that night that immediately in the morning we were boarding a public bus for about 4 hours to get to La Fortuna.
Here’s where I would have done it differently – since we already had the car, Marjorie and I should have just driven up to La Fortuna and spent the night there. There was NO reason for us to have a night in San Jose at all if we were already going to have a car. We could have skipped the public bus and had that much time in comfort and in La Fortuna.
Day 2: La Fortuna
We started our day on the bus which, if I’m honest, was actually way nicer than anticipated – but still, a long bus ride! (Also at every bus station in Costa Rice you’ll find a chain bakery that is SUPER tasty! Musmanni – check it out!)
When we arrived in La Fortuna we had lunch at the Rainforest Cafe (no, not that one) which was tasty and a place we went back to for breakfast. We decided to try and squeeze in an excursion (and save a little money) and instead explored a little of the town. La Fortuna is tiny with only a few streets around the main square. It’s very cute but it’s really just a jumping off point for all the various activities. And it was going to be home for three nights. On one hand, it’s nice to not move around a lot, but on the other, the hotel was (again) something to be desired. We stayed in Hotel Las Colinas and our room in particular was so small it was literally impossible to unpack (it was our beds and ONE tiny table – no dresser or closet) which defeated the purpose of spending a few nights, in my opinion. Now – it had a few positives with being in an incredible location to walk around and having an amazing view. But the room seriously sucked.
We did get an amazing ice cream on square and has a really great meal at Yellow Bark – so it’s not like it was a total loss of a day.
Day 3: La Fortuna and our First Group Excursion
I’ll admit, coming onto day three I was getting pretty salty. Two lackluster hotels, a bus ride, and basically nothing happening yet? I was feeling antsy and wondering where my money went.
But then – this! Our first kayak excursion! It was led by Desafio and I loved this. They took us over to Lake Arenal where we split the group into two – one group kayaked out to the peninsula while the other group did SUP (Stand up paddle board) and then we switched. During our break in the middle of the lake we had fruit and beer to enjoy.
This was my first time doing SUP and I was practically giddy I loved it so much. It was a beautiful and amazing spot to the activity and I highly recommend it. One thing to note – you do NOT need to be on this G Adventures tour for this! This is a tour hosted by Desafio and you can buy it one-off if you are in La Fortuna on your own.
After lunch, we went on a hike to get a better view of the Arenal volcano. This was organized through our guide and G Adventures, but it was, again, a tour hosted by Desafio that you can do without being part of a larger group. It was a nice little outing – definitely more “walk” than “hike” but did give some good opportunities to see wild life and pictures of the volcano with some informational tidbits.
Lastly, our group decided to partake in what our guide, Gabriel, called a more “rustic” hot springs experience. This, my friends, was the most unique and hysterical activity we encountered in our G Adventures trip. We stopped by a little market, bought some beer, and then Gabriel led us down some super sketchy steps into was was clearly just a dam run off or something super podunk. I almost lost my suit in a particularly aggressive portion but eventually the group of us set up shop in the back, Gabriel pulled out some candles, and it was downright relaxing and silly. We never would have found it on our own without Gabriel and it was definitely a perk to the trip. If you are in La Fortuna on your own and you ask around, you could find it, but I wouldn’t recommend doing it by yourself.
Day 4: La Fortuna
Our last full day in La Fortuna was unscheduled so we opted to try the boat tour up in Cano Negro. And there was a bit of the problem with the whole “other people plan for you” type of vacation – we weren’t sure what we were signing up for. We thought there was some kind of hiking element… or some kind of really unique situation. It was pretty much just a long, slow boat ride where you almost saw some wildlife. All in all, not our favorite use of our time (though it was lovely… just not quite active enough for us). It did include lunch, but our lunch stop was very awkwardly on someone’s farm property and there was no place to take advantage of the “outdoor commode” without showing your butt to the world.
We spent our final evening in La Fortuna enjoying the weather, walking, and doing a little shopping. It was lovely, but definitely time to go. Dinner at Lava Lounge which was tasty, but expensive.
Day 5: Sarapiquiand the 2nd Kayak Adventure
Welcome to Summer Camp!
Seriously – this was the point in our tour that you have to either laugh or cry. I think I did a little of both. We left La Fortuna in a lovely little private van and made our way to Sarapiqui. My jaw dropped when we pulled into Cinco Ceibas. The painted bus was adorable, the main lodge was fun and campy, but the fact that they housed NINE WOMEN in one of these cabins (with 3 bedrooms… 4 if you count the one that was just curtained off from the kitchen) and one bathroom was, to me, not okay. And don’t get me started on the food (the first included meals ALL TRIP). (Spoiler: the food sucked).
Look -let me back up here. I am not a finnicky traveler. I don’t get grossed out. I understand limitations. I was HOT about this though. I did not pay for shared accommodations. I paid a very decent price for this trip – it wasn’t supposed to be shoe string and, lemme tell ya, this is shoe string accommodation.
Ok – but if I was able to put aside my frustrations and absorb the good – let’s be honest we NEVER would have found this place on our own. And it really was like summer camp – we were the only people there and ate cafeteria style. It was kind of adorable.
We got there early enough to do our kayaking trip in the afternoon and that was a blast. It was a level 1 rapids – basically, a river with a slight current – which made the kayaking trip a LOT of fun. We dumped ourselves but it was a solid workout and an amazing trip. For people who don’t like adrenaline it was the perfect level up from a lazy river and a truly unique experience.
Outside of the kayak trip though there was NOTHING to do there (they didn’t even have board games in stock) so we chilled out in the main lodge (the only spot with mediocre wifi) until it was late enough to go to bed.
Day 6: Tortuguero
We bid a not unwelcome good-bye to summer camp and made the long-ish trek to Tortuguero. Now, this was a truly lovely place. Only accessible by boat I imagine a lot of solo traveler skip it but I definitely recommend finding your way there. It took a lot of travel but we eventually made it to the Baula Lodge – easily our nicest accommodations on the trip. While no luxury establishment they had cute little rooms in pretty colors, a nice pool, and fun places to hang out near the water.
We took a walk around the little town which was adorable (and honestly larger than I thought)! It’s all water taxis and cuteness around here and I could have spent more time but decided to enjoy the lodge instead.
Day 7: Tortugueroand Kayak Trip #3
We decided to have a packed day and started off with a morning hike to a beautiful look out. We had enough people join us that we had our guide come but it was something you easily could do on your own. It was a lovely little hike with some good stairs at the end.
Then it was straight to our third kayak trip which was delightful. It was a good three hours down the canals. Wide and beautiful at times and super narrow little hidey-holes in others. It was so much fun – we got really close to caymans and limbo’d under fallen trees. A truly wonderful and fun experience.
After a well earned lunch we then went back to the Tortuguero side of the river and took a nice long walk. This was led by our guide and we walked through the jungle, looking for wildlife, and then walked back on the beach side. It was relaxing and energizing and I got all the walking in the surf a gal could want.
Day 8: Back to San Jose
We took out time enjoying some coffee in the morning before heading back to the mainland. The boat trip back certainly seemed to take longer than the way there but eventually we made our way back to San Jose (and my faaavorite hotel. Sigh).
We took a little walking tour downtown, really racking up our steps (and wandering through some fairly sketchy areas) but finding some cute little tidbits in town. I’ll admit, what you read about San Jose in the guide books is pretty accurate. There are a few interesting spots but for the most part it’s not a very desirable city to wander. Half a day was plenty of time to feel like we got what we wanted out of it.
And that was it! There was nothing in the morning at all, just shipping us off to our destination. We walked a few blocks (again, so sketchy around our hotel) but found this adorable place (Hotel Grano de Oro) that had an excellent breakfast. It was a breath of fresh air before getting on our flights home.
All in All
We had a lovely time in Costa Rica. It’s a beautiful country with lots of fun activities. Taking out trip through G Adventures gave us things we could have – and would have – easily found ourselves but also a few extras. The kayak trips – the whole point of the tour was chose – were all exceptional and truly different. We might not have ever done one of them and definitely wouldn’t have done all three – so that was a huge perk. But the let down with the hotels and food was a big one. And – we did the math – but this trip more or less cost the same as Galapagos and Ecuador (well known for being expensive). That was definitely a let down as we figured we’d save a little this way but there were SO many added fees. I feel like ultimately we enjoyed ourselves despite the tour, not because of it, and Costa Rica just held enough positive attractive to keep us positive overall.
When Zoe and I get together our main objectives are bookstores, coffee shops, and good food.
San Antonio did not disappoint! Here are the top locations we found that were excellent spots to hunker down, open up the laptop, and be productive.
Here are our rankings:
1) Press Coffee – 4035 Broadway St, San Antonio
We love Press place so much, we spent 2 out of 3 of our mornings there. The coffee itself was top notch – I personally had a hazelnut latte and it was spot on with taste and foam and all around yum. Our decision to share a cinnamon roll left me with regret, only because I really didn’t want to share.
But, guys, the venue. It’s beautiful unique building with all kinds of lush vegetation. Plenty of cute and unique seating with fun little multi-level hideaways. It was a bit chilly both the mornings we were there but there were 3 different patio spots that made for lots of outdoor seating while still being intimate. Definitely a must stop.
2) Candlelight Coffeehouse – 3011 N St Mary’s St, San Antonio
This was my happy place. First to note – this is an evening coffee bar. It’s 4pm-12am most days and has a full bar. But it’s so much more! I can’t even begin to rank what I loved the most about this place so I’ll just make a laundry list: the patio was HUGE and amazing with quirky artwork throughout, the inside had tables and then multiple couches to provide perfect relaxation and friend time. Cool artwork, our tea was served in tea pots with strainers (and was DELICIOUS) and they have a Cake Bar. A CAKE BAR PEOPLE THIS IS NOT A DRILL.
It was brilliant and lovely and best of all inclusive and I think I fell in love with a bar.
3) Local Coffee (at Pearl) – 302 Pearl Pkwy, San Antonio
When you walk into this coffee shop, you may feel like you’ve been here before. Quintessentially hipster with a minimal menu – they may have had bakery items but I didn’t partake. It looked to me what Starbucks probably looked at before it became Starbucks. But the drinks were good (I had a chai and it was top notch) with a good amount of indoor seating. But I didn’t stay indoors, opting for one of the many tables in the cuteness of the square that is Pearl.
Zoe and I actually stumbled upon this place and were flabbergasted – the whole Pearl area and concept was adorable and should have been our first destination in town and yet we never saw it in any of the blogs we found. Highly recommend bopping around this adorable spot.
4) Rosella at the Rand –114 E Houston St, San Antonio
Upscale little spot with easy parking downtown – we shared a plate of warm brie (drooool) and both got lavender chai lattes. One of their half circle booths was available that had an easy outlet for a good working session. They didn’t mind us camping out at all, though it’s possible they have their busier times and will want you to turn over the table. Still – a few good outdoor work locations too made this an excellent nice location to be.
5) Summer Moon Coffee – 3233 N St Mary’s St #102, San Antonio
There are a few Summer Moon locations around Texas. They are well known for their super-secret homemade cream that is to die for. I sampled their Cinnamon Latte which was excellent and then the true “Summer moon” which is a ton of cream with a shot of espresso. It was basically like drinking a melted milkshake and I was in some kind of heaven.
The location we found wasn’t the cutest – with a drive thru window it seems to be more of a convenience type of location. But there were plenty of seats, with even a few outdoors (though not much to look at besides the parking lot). Still, definitely an easy place to spend the morning getting through those work emails.
6) Crepeccino – 5500 Babcock Rd #104, San Antonio
This is a crepe shop and a coffee shop and it’s like my whole world combined into one beautiful, amazing pinpoint. It’s a smidge “further afield” and even though it has cute decor inside it is in one of those strip malls which made the experience a little harsh. But, other than the overly large aspect, we had an amazing savory (chicken alfredo?!) crepe with a top notch little side salad and followed it up with a truly happy dance worthy 3-chocolate crepe.
Beauty and taste – who could ask for more? With more than enough seating and strong wifi it was a great spot off point.
7) Hayclon Southtown – 1414 S Alamo St, San Antonio
Still along the river walk but one the path-less-traveled side, we really enjoyed Hayclon. Very hip and industrial, they advertised a drag brunch that I wanted to switch my flight to stay and watch. They had a very good crowd when we arrived right at brunch time on Saturday so we didn’t pull out the laptops, but we did see others working. We pretty much just focused on the food (my breakfast burrito was SO good) and drink. It was one of those places where you just knew every item on the menu would be spectacular.
Our only disappointment was we saw a ‘make your own smores’ on the website but it wasn’t part of brunch. We didn’t beg, so, I assume if you begged you could maybe get it, but we decided we weren’t hungry enough. It was close though – because let me tell you, the picture looked amazing.
If you come here to work, you might want to avoid the brunch hour as I personally would have felt a little strange trying to camp there at that time, but there were a few couches that seemed up for grabs (though they were full) and some great outdoor space as well, they just might have a calmer vibe any other time of the day.
I spent a weekend in Los Angeles to visit one of my best friends and we had only three things on our agenda: books, books, and more books.
When my friend Zoe and I get together, it’s always with a literary agenda. We’re both writers (she’s way better) and spend the majority of the time we have together sitting at coffee shops and visiting book-ish locations. We had a fabulous time and found some prime hide-a-ways that must be highlighted.
First – Zoe and I stayed in what is quick possibly the cutest Airbnb ever. It was tucked away in the Topanga canyons. It was built in the 1920s with full amenities, fluffy white blankets, fireplace, and an incredible porch with amazing views. Never mind the somewhat near-death driving experience to get there. It was SO worth it.
It was such a lovely place to sit, enjoy tea and wine, and spend time on our laptops writing for NaNoWriMo.
Favorite Writing Spots
Paradise Cove Beach Cafe Malibu – we stumbled upon this place on our way up to Ojai. We were hungry and made an abrupt turn off the PCH when we say the rather large street sign. We were a bit put off when we saw we had to pay for parking but didn’t regret it once we were inside. The food was excellent and they have both indoor and outdoor (on the sand) seating. After our meal, we took our laptops out to the beach and sat in the lounge chairs overlooking the water. It was very pleasant and a really easy spot to do some beach writing (which is no small feat!
Bricks and Scones – I love this place so much I made Zoe come back twice (not that she minded). The food and drinks are excellent (loooove the blended chai!) and there is plenty of both indoor and outdoor seating. Being the midwesterner I am, I am in absolute heaven if I can sit outside in the sun with my laptop in November. Highly, highly recommend as the perfect cafe to hang out in for a while.
Favorite Book Store Visits
The Ripped Bodice – Let’s face it, this might be my favorite book store in the whole world, not just LA. It’s filled with romance books as with lots of liberal and LGBTQ+ friendly materials as well. It’s a haven for gifts with all kinds of fun knick-knacks (I bought a “Kilty Pleasures” Calendar with muscular men in kilts for my book club’s white elephant gift. It was a riot!). It’s not huge, but it has a wonderful selection and does a great job of highlighting various items. So cute, I could have spent a lot more time there!
Bart’s Books – While not really close to Los Angeles, Zoe and I decided we just had to made the trip up to Ojai to see the famous outdoor bookstore – and I’m so glad we did! It was heavenly with a wide variety of books and what seemed to be a maze of shelves. It was a lot bigger than I expected and even had lots of little tables to sit and read. We didn’t stay long enough to pull out our laptops but this could definitely be a relaxing place to write as well!
The Last Bookstore – No tour of LA bookstores is complete without a visit the Last Bookstore. It’s not in the most desirable area of town (parking is a bit tricky) but it was worth a stop. It was quite busy while we were there and while there were some seating areas, it was noisy and not a place I would hang out. I’ll be honest – I didn’t love it. But I am still glad I went. It has some amazing book structures and it was also HUGE. Nice photo ops but I prefer a quieter place, myself.
Our literary adventure in Los Angeles did not disappoint! Zoe has lived in LA for a number of years now so she had many more suggestions that we just didn’t get to in the time we had.
I know binging on Netflix is all the rage, but I’m much more interested in binging book series
You can probably guess some of the main things in my life that make me happy – kids, husband, traveling, cookies with their centers still soft and, of course, reading. But let’s dive just a bit further into reading… for all your readers out there, is there anything quite so wondering than finding that amazing book series and getting completely lost in it?
One of my favorite things to do is to read book the first book in a series and then head to the library to check out ALL the remaining books so I can binge read them. You know – like Netflix but so. much. better.
So maybe that’s why I generally hesitate to pick up the first book of the series. Am I the only one? I am wary of the commitment it implies – I’m in this for the long haul, it tells me. In the time it takes to read four very different books, I may be reading, basically, one really long story. It’s enough to make my palms sweat.
So, to help any similar anxiety you have, I thought I would highlight some of my absolute favorite series. (Note – I’ve left off the ‘duh’ ones such as Harry Potter and Lord of the Rings. Those are, obviously, amazing and if you haven’t read them then you need to shut this down and start reading!)
In particular, I’ve highlighted the series I’ve truly binged. There are some series out there that, while wonderful, aren’t necessarily ones that you need to binge. (The Rockton Series by Kelley Armstrong is a great example of this) These, however, I recommend you get all books at once and settle in for the long haul.
1. Outlander by Diana Gabaldon – Anyone who knows me is likely shocked this is my number one (#kidding). These are easily some of my favorite books and definitely my favorite series. Binging this is a very time consuming commitment so it is SO worth it. And then you can watch the series for a double binge-whammy!
2. Renegades by Marissa Meyer – Let’s face it, I’m a little in love with Meyer. She’s the author of another great series, Cinder, but I decided Renegades was much more binge-worthy. Why? Because I just recently inhaled this series and loved it (especially the conclusion). YA friendly and very timely with superheros it’s both predictable and unique at the same time.
3. The Cormoran Strike Series by Robert Galbraith – I’ve really gotten into mystery/crime books lately and I recommend these books ALL the time. They are so good and I can’t wait for additional books to come out. What I love most about them is that they are binge-worthy. Most mysteries are so stand alone you can pick them up at any stage, but these books truly excel if you go in order.
PS – Fun fact, Robert Galbraith is J.K. Rowling’s pseudonym. But this is NO Harry Potter!
4. The Veronica Speedwell Mysteries by Deanna Raybourn – these books are SO good with an incredible, sassy protagonist. They are set in the 1880s and include mystery and seduction. I regularly laughed out loud at these and can’t wait to eat up the rest (she’s still writing more *squee*)
5. Beartown by Fredrik Backman – at only two books some people might not consider this a “series” but I still had to include it. Beartown and the sequel, Us Against You is such a beautiful story. Being from a small town myself, I tend to bristle at “small-town” books as they often are written by someone who doesn’t quite get it. But Backman does a wonderful job at building these character and town.
6. Cake by J. Bengtsson – let’s be honest, there are few things more delightful than binging smutty romances. And Cake is easily one of my favorite binges. While, yes, they are stand along novels, this is one of the first series I’ve read where the continued story line of the characters really matters in future novels. The stories are adorable, endearing, and filled with all kinds of sexual exploits.
7. The Paper Magician by Charlie N. Holmberg – I’ll be honest, I wasn’t blown away by The Paper Magician. I had my hesitations with the story, but I decided to keep reading (mostly due to a romantic component, I’m such a sucker for that) and ended up blowing through the series. I think this series works best when you can binge it – when you can really immerse yourself, you get those feels!
So – what did I miss? I’d love to find another series to add to my list!
If you have the Galapagos/Ecuador on your Bucket List like my friend Marjorie and I did – you’re going to want to see this. Because we, my friends, nailed the PERFECT trip to paradise.
Let me start by saying planning a trip to Ecuador and the Galapagos – especially the epically perfect trip Marjorie and I achieved – is not for people who hate planning. This took a lot of time and research and that is exactly why I am making this blog post. Because we absolutely, positively nailed it. Some of it was because of our extensive research, and some was plain dumb luck, but l wanted to put it all on the table so someone else can benefit.
First off: Luck. Our weather was absolutely perfect every day. We had one afternoon of rain in Mindo and that was it. If that weren’t the case, some of this would likely not have been as pleasant but hey – that is luck for you. I will say some of it was also good planning though; we went in early April. A time that is known for having “calmer” seas. So keep that in mind.
Itinerary – April 2019
One of the biggest decisions you have to make when you are planning a trip to the Galapagos is – land or sea? It is, however, in a lot of ways, a false decision. Unless you only plan on visiting one island (which would just be silly) you will have to do the sea. And that is why I recommend, 100%, to just suck it up, budget for the expense, and find yourself a cruise. I recommend you do ours, because ours was awesome, but don’t try to do all of the Galapagos without a cruise. I can say that with absolute certainty because Marjorie and I – we did both!
Here is our
Day 1: Arrived in Baltra, night in Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz
Day 2: Ferry to Isla Isabela, explored Isabela with NO guide (aka – free!)
Day 3: Full day Isla Isabela – day trip to Volcan Sierra Negra
Day 4: Morning ferry back to Isla Santa Cruz, explored with NO guide
Day 5: Boarded our cruise, afternoon on North Seymour
Day 6: Genovesa – hiking and snorkeling, kayaking, and beach time
Day 7: Bartolome and Santiago for hiking, with snorkeling in between
Day 8: End of cruise, flight to Quito, night in Quito
Day 9: All day exploring Quito Old Town
Day 10: Morning bus to Mindo, night in Mindo
Day 11: Mid-day bus to Quito, afternoon and night in La
Floresta neighborhood, part of New Town Quito
Day 12: Airport home
I would recommend the above plan to just about everyone. If
you can add days – DO it – but at the same time Marjorie and I were very ready
to stop the schlepping and come home. In all honesty, our trip was so perfect;
I think we both figured we were pushing our luck to continue to get perfect
after 12 days of travel.
Day 1: Arrival and exploring Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz
When you arrive in Ecuador, you need to get a visa to go to the Galapagos.
Perk number 1 of having a cruise lined up: we were given directions from our guide (We used Jonathan at Happy Gringo. He was very helpful and responsive – highly recommend!) so we knew exactly how we had to stand in line to get our Galapagos visa when we arrived in Guayaquil. To be honest, it was not readily apparent and I think if someone only did vague research, it could have been missed. They don’t check it to get into the Galapagos but they definitely checked for it leaving. I assume massive fines if you don’t have it.
When we arrived in Baltra airport, that’s the airport in the Galapagos, it was all quite easy, to be honest. There’s really only one way to get out of the airport and that is the bus to the harbor. And when you get there, it’s just the one option of the short 5 minute ferry to the other side. From there, unless you have a hired driver, you pretty much have to take a taxi. Taxis on Santa Cruz are all white pick-up trucks which at first to me seemed weird, and later just seemed adorable. You’re looking at $25 to get to Puerto Ayora with the taxi and we didn’t get anyone heckling us for more money.
In fact – everyone in Ecuador, and especially the Galapagos, is incredibly kind. Seriously – great humans, the lot of them.
We stayed both of our nights in Puerto Ayora at Hostal White House. I give them all the stars I can give. It was cute, it was clean, it had powerful air conditioning and hammocks (essential living for me). Everyone we encountered was nice and helpful and it was in a very convenient location. I would recommend it in a heartbeat.
It was this fateful evening that we discovered our coconut ice cream shop. We visiting this place, I am not kidding you, at least 5 times. It was cute, it was simple, it was guava and coconut mixed and it was everything we wanted in life. It’s on Avenue Baltra (the main street down to the water) between roads 18 de Febrero and Charles Binford. You’re not going to find an address, but seek it out and pay the man $1.25 to full up your little cup. You won’t regret it.
Day 2: Isla Isabela
Marjorie and I were adamant about one thing regarding the Galapagos. We didn’t want to feel trapped. The concept of a long cruise really bugged us out. What if we didn’t like the guide? The food? The boat or our shipmates? We all know how one sour thing like that can really ruin an experience. Because of this, we hedged our bets. The first 4 days on the Galapagos were us on our own. We would do what we could guide-less with the least amount of commitments – and that took us to Isabela.
Isla Isabela is famous for a few things – 1) being awesome 2) being large 3) being young 4) being sparsely inhabited
It is all of these things. The town – the only town – is Puerto Villamil and has a population of 2,000. Especially compared to Puerto Ayora at 12,000 people (and what felt to be, really, rather bustling) this was a sleepy island getaway.
We stayed at Hostal Jenniffer which was, again, great. Our room and the lobby were both really quite large but sparsely furnished which is the best constructive criticism I can find. Otherwise it was clean, comfortable, with a full kitchen and – you guessed it – hammocks. Happy as a clam.
Your tour books will advertise a specific “free” beach with snorkeling available. We explored the island and felt this, honestly, to be a little silly. The beach the tour books reference is literally right next to the dock. It was a pleasant place to swim, but felt strange to try to snorkel there. There was supposedly another inlet somewhere but we couldn’t seem to find it (though, admittedly, we didn’t look that hard). What we found to be the most interesting though was that, honestly, all the beaches were free. There is another gorgeous one at a pier right as the main street opens up and then another one down the road near where a magical walkway to the Tortoise Breeding Center is – it’s all free, it’s all beautiful. Maybe that’s the only one that can be advertised as free but if you want to swim – just walk along the beaches and jump in. You won’t be the only one. Others are wider, clearer, and just nicer.
Okay – but let me back up. How did we get to Isla Isabela? Really the only way you can (other than some kind of mysterious hired plane) which that is the ferry. “Ferries” in the Galapagos are really just speed boats that seat about 20 people. They leave just two times a day and we opted for the morning. If you have any kind of qualms with waves, we highly recommend the morning rides. It apparently gets much more chaotic on the water in the afternoon and our rides were not exactly calm.
We bought our tickets in advance right from our hostel, but there were tickets available at multiple tour offices and I think you can buy it right on the dock the morning of. Everyone is going to charge the same rate, we never found differences. The boats aren’t huge though so I’d definitely recommend buying it the night before so you ensure you get a seat. Ours was full both ferry rides.
The ferry is a true two hours and for the most part was calm. But there’s a good 45 minutes when you are far enough away from both coasts that you are truly out in the sea and “calm” just isn’t a thing. Take your nausea medicine and be prepared to get splashed and jolted, depending on your spot on the boat. To be honest, it just wasn’t pleasant and was rather uncomfortable with all the people, but it wasn’t awful either. It’s the Galapagos equivalent of a public bus.
When we got to Isabela we checked in (our room was ready early, soooo happy) and then just plopped down at one of the restaurants mentioned in the guide books, Valero (right on the main drag, you can’t miss it). Here we got an Ecuadorian staple called a Bolon that we literally ate every chance we got- fried plantains with a mild white cheese and a fried egg. Ecuadorian coffee and fresh squeezed juice. Can’t go wrong. Overall this ended up being the least tasty of all the bolons we consumed but it was good. I can’t say I was encouraged by what the rest of the menu would be though, but the location was cute which made it worth it.
We then walked down the main – practically the only – road and veered off on a wooden walkway to the right where marine iguanas lounged all over each other and you crossed lagoons populated with flamingos. It was reminiscent of, of all things, the faerie glens in Scotland and was really a fun little walk. The walk ended in the Isabela Tortoise Breeding ground where we spotted all kinds of different tortoises of varying ages. It was cute and picture worthy.
Technically we could have walked back and then continued on to the Wall of Tears which is a big attraction on Isabela but we were very tired at that point. Instead we walked back, stopping for some fresh coconut water at Marani Surf Shop. It’s, of course, along the main road and is part house, part art gallery, and part restaurant – but it’s all awesome.
Then we took a break, did some beach swimming, signed up for our day tour the following day, and then went and grabbed dinner at The Booby Trap. Excellent food with a fantastic view and instagram worthy name. Win/win/win – though bring your bug spray, you’re close to the lagoons so mosquitoes are friendly there.
Day 3 – Hiking the Volcano – Sierra Negra
There are a lot of options for day tours on Isabela and we only had one day to play with. Los Tuneles is a highly coveted area but we knew we were going to have a lot of cruise spots so we decided to stay on dry land and headed up Sierra Negra. If you have an extra day, the Tuneles are supposedly worth it and I have no reason to doubt it.
However, if you have only one day, do the volcano. Even thinking back now on all the incredible things we did, this volcano hike was truly one of the highlights of the whole trip. We highly recommend our tour. We bought the tour from IsaTourEx and our guide was Sebastian. He has, apparently, been doing it for 15 years and clearly has his own, incredible, route. A ton of tours started at the same time but everyone else went on a different, lower route. It was hot and I got so sunburned, but it was honestly one of the most unique experiences of my life – and it was only our 3rd day into our trip.
We came back hot, tired, sore, and only really had the energy to sit, get some ice cream, sit on a beach, and then go to a restaurant that pulled the grill out to the sidewalk and fired up some meat. So YEAH we were going to eat there. It was called Maestro De Casa and I will say one thing – the Ecuadorians do a good grill. Anywhere we went whether it was beef or fish or whatever, if it was grilled, it was prepared excellent. So when in doubt…. Stop at this place with a grill for SURE.
Day 4 – Isla Santa Cruz
We took a VERY early ferry to get another bumpy ride back to Santa Cruz. We got a brunch of (you guessed it) plantain balls and fried eggs before working out our itinerary for our day in Santa Cruz.
Despite the heat, we ended up heading to Tortuga Bay. We highly recommend making your way here if you are on Santa Cruz. No guides needed, though there is a fee for entry. The walkway is hot and long but beautiful and then you end up on the most pristine, white sand beach you’ll ever see. Paradise. Circle your way around and there is an equally incredible beach where you are allowed to swim – pop your towel under a short tree and lay around in the water. It was heavenly and you could easily spend an entire afternoon. Pro Tip: There’s even a water taxi where you can pay to get taken back to Puerto Ayora (which we did – we were too burned to want to tackle the walk back).
That night we ate on restaurant row (Charles Binford road – it looks normal by day but impossible to miss around supper time). No idea what the restaurant was called but they all serve the same thing. We picked out our fish and shrimp and they grilled it up for us. The meat was good, the sides were fine. Nothing wrong with our selection but I’m sure you could go to any of them and get something as good – we stopped at the first restaurant on your right when you approach from Baltra Street.
Day 5 – Board the Cruise and Explore North Seymour
Cruise day! It was tedious travel for us to get back up to the airport (taxi, to mini-ferry, to bus) to be picked up but we found our guide easily and made our way onto the Archipel I. It’s hard for me to explain how excited we were about this
We had just spent the last 4 days on our own, we were tired and sunburned, and we walk into this gorgeous boat with the air conditioner blasting and we KNEW we had made an excellent decision.
We were so ready to put the planning into the hands of our (though we didn’t know it then) very capable crew. Our boat wasn’t deemed “luxury” but the cabin was way nicer and spacious than I expected – the beds were truly comfortable and the bathroom space really accommodating.
One thing to note – NO WIFI! At first I was a little worried but honestly, it was great to be 100% off the grid for 4 days. Still – we didn’t know about the lack of wifi in advance and didn’t really prepare our families. Whoops.
Honestly, I can’t say enough about our crew. They were so nice, friendly, capable, and accommodating.
Marjorie has a gluten allergy and not only were there lots of options in general, they were always careful to make her aware of what was gluten free and always provided her a special meal if needed.
That first day we took a short and delightful trip after our lunch to do an afternoon on North Seymour. It was the perfect starting off point with a (hot) hike that let us see lots of Blue Footed Boobies and Frigate birds. It was, already, a totally new and unique experience from what we did on our own.
We were able to do some snorkeling, equipment provided or you can use your own, and we were rewarded with snacks upon our return. Then free time, dinner, and hanging out or bed.
I’ll admit, for both Marjorie and I, sleeping on a moving boat was challenging. We seemed to be the only ones who had trouble though. They purposefully wait to travel until people are headed to bed, I assume for sea-sickness purposes.
Day 6: Isla Genovesa
We awoke the next morning in the giant circular bay of Genovesa. It was gorgeous and calm and provided a full day of various activities. We started off the day with a hike on Prince Phillip’s steps. This gave us even more bird sightings – including the red and Nasca boobies, as well a lot more frigates, iguanas, and the rest. It was also just beautiful scenery and our guide, Fabian, was fantastic. He clearly has such a love and passion for what he does and can really talk about the same birds over and over again with new information.
April was a good time to go because we were able to witness a lot of the mating rituals. Not that I’m really into a peep show but it was definitely interesting to see and talk about.
After the hike – which was, again HOT but not otherwise challenging – we were able to spend time snorkeling. Snorkeling is pretty much the best thing ever in my book and I could have stayed there all day.
When we got back to the boat it was lunch and then we had
the opportunity to go kayaking – which we did.
That was fun and different and another way to get moving. We were able to hug the coast of the bay and
saw more birds as well as sea lions. The water was so calm it was easy and
More down time and then we went for a hike on another part
of the island, the beach part, and we were able to experience a lot of the same
birds but a different landscape and a lot of sea lions as well. Then we ended our day with beach
relaxation. I really found the cruise to
be a good mixture of activity and down time both on and off the boat.
That night we experienced one of the most beautiful sunsets
I’ve ever seen.
Day 7: Isla Bartolome and Isla Santiago
After another long night of boat rocking (it was about 8 hours to get to and from Genovesa) we awoke at Isla Bartolome, which had been our “must” destination for the cruise.
Bartolome is has a very dynamic landscape and you can see all the lava rock. You climb 130-some steps to get to the top for some really incredible views. Other than it being a lot of stairs, it wasn’t an otherwise strenuous hike and the view is one of the most notable in the Galapagos.
It was one of those places where, when you got to the top, it really hits you how special this is. It’s landscape is truly like no other and we were so fortunate to be able to experience it.
We were then able to snorkel around the huge jagged rock famous in Galapagos pictures before heading back on the boat and cruising over the lunch time to Isla Santiago for more hiking. Santiago is cool and different as it is entirely a lava wasteland – you could easily be in a science fiction movie. This hike was less about animals and more about the craziness that is nature and the epically cool experience of walking on all the intricate lava flows.
After the short, but unique, hike, there was more beach time
with snorkeling as well. We did manage to spot just one Galapagos penguin which
checked off all the musts on our particular bucket list. April isn’t really ideal penguin season so we
were pleasantly surprised and lucky.
That night the boat took us back to Puerto Ayora and I spent the majority of the evening on the top deck. For me the rockiness of the water, due to some storms nearby that never got to us, was too much for me to be below deck. Looking back, I’m glad I was uncomfortable below, because I will remember that night for a long time.
Never in my life have I seen stars as bright as I have in Galapagos night. That peace, paired with the sea breeze, made for an emotional and unforgettable experience.
I was able to sit and chat with a couple members of the staff who were so kind and compassionate, wanting to ensure I was okay since I was out so late. I eventually went in, but I seriously considered staying out there the whole night.
Day 8: End of the Cruise and Quito
We woke to a beautiful sunrise and got off the boat early. We had a quick tour of the Charles Darwin Breeding Center and were able to see more of the giant tortoises – it wasn’t as impressive as the one on Isla Isabela but totally worth it if it don’t find yourself at Isabela.
It was quick, though, as we then had the bus back to the harbor, water taxi across, another bus to the airport, and then we were there. We had worked with our tour guide to ensure we had a direct flight to Quito which, looking back, probably wasn’t the best use of our time. Instead of taking the 10am flight, our direct flight was at 1pm. For us this was great because it was theoretically less time “traveling” and time in the air – but then, of course, we got delayed. We didn’t get into the air until close to 4pm. So we spent the majority of the day just sitting at the Baltra airport where there is – you guessed it – no wifi.
So, we lost almost a day of travel but made it safely and then took a bus then a taxi to our Airbnb in Old Town Quito (very cute, by the way, and recommended!). Our Airbnb host was very kind and helpful and even gave us a ride down to the Calle de la Ronda which is well known in Quito and had lots of restaurants. We opted to eat on our own so we could get some rest. We ended up at Leña Quiteña where we got some food samplers and I tried the Quito famous Canelazo – it’s a warm alcoholic drink made with their bluebird liquor, orange juice, and spaces. I, personally, was not a fan as it’s WAY too strong for me, but always worth trying!
Day 9: Quito Old Town
Our next day was all about exploring Quito Old Town. We tried our hardest to finds some of the recommended restaurants in our guide book but struck out, repeatedly, during the day. I won’t even mention where we had breakfast- it was more or less a diner and it served its purpose. Overall, while Old Town seemed easy to navigate, we had a hard time finding specific addresses.
We hooked our tour train up then to a free guided tour which, like every free walking tour I’ve ever experienced, was incredible. I always recommend this is the first thing you do when you get to a new city as they show you almost everything you need. I highly recommend Strawberry Tours (free!). We walked through Old Town, saw some great churches and squares, learned a little, and got plenty of tips on where to go next. In particular I think is the one of the best walking tours I’ve been on because we had LOTS of free samples. We literally stopped and had free coffee and tea at a cute restaurant (where we returned for dinner, more on that later) as well as had free candy samples and then even got a mini chocolate tour. We went back to ALL the places later and made purchases, so it was a win for everyone.
After our tour walked to the Basilica. Now, let me tell you, Quito is all about the views. Pretty much every activity boasts that you can get up high and see the world. So that’s what we did in the Basilica. There were some walkways that felt a little sketch and both of us almost had a panic attack when we saw the steps we had to climb to get to the top of the spire, but we both YOLO’d it and got some great images and memories. It was fun, but not essential.
Our lunch was ice cream (of course). We desperately tried to find a famous ice
cream place that didn’t seem to exist.
So instead we went to the candy shop we had stopped at on our tour (just
off Independence Plaza) and grabbed ice cream at the stand next to his and sat
in a cute, beautiful ivy-covered courtyard to each our lunch/snack.
From there we wandered the Old Town a little more, just going up and down the streets and really enjoyed the view. We truly felt we had seen and experience Old Town so we grabbed a taxi and it took us all the way up the mountain to see the Virgen of Quito statue. We took our pictures but didn’t feel like hanging out for an hour for sunset so we took another taxi back down to the Ronda where we went to have dinner at Masaya, where we had stopped on our tour. It was adorable, delicious, and also is a hostel so take a look at that as a possible accommodation. Service was lacking but we really enjoyed the experience overall and it was a fun, tucked away part of the Ronda.
Then, of course, we finished off our day with ice cream at probably the best ice cream place we had found on the mainland- Dulce Placer. It was definitely artisanal with really unique flavors and had one cute little table where you could look over the street. It’s very tucked away but so worth finding.
Despite all the warnings, we walked home that night and had
no issues at all. I’m sure it’s very important to be diligent after dark but it
was still early and it was actually beautiful walking through Old Town at
night. There were lots of folks out, too
so we felt very secure.
Day 10: Mindo
The next morning we checked out and got a morning bus to Mindo, the cloud forest. The bus was easy, if a bit long, and the comfort of the bus is probably what you would expect of South America. Air conditioning and wifi are not to be expected. The road was a little close to the edge at times but otherwise I felt secure enough to sleep without worries. When we arrived, we went straight to the office to buy our return trip. Apparently the bus can get full so decide on your plans and buy those tickets right away.
Mindo was everything it was advertised to be. Small and sleepy with a few streets for the town. We grabbed a taxi to our resort, Las Terrazas de Dana, which was 100% perfect. Ana was there and she took truly exceptional care of us. We were able to check in early, get breakfast, get advice, and soak in the raw beauty of Mindo. It was my first time in the rain forest/cloud forest and staying with Ana really made us feel like I was experiencing it in luxury. HIGHLY recommend.
We started off our day in Mindo by visiting the waterfalls. Ana helped us call a taxi who drove us to the top of the mountain where we immediately encountered a cable car. If you haven’t noticed by now in this blog, Marjorie and I are major chickens and it took some psyching up but we did the cable car with white knuckles (looking back, it really wasn’t that bad). On the other side we took a true cloud forest hike with beautiful canopies, mossy trees with huge leaves, and glimpses of incredible views. We opted to take the longer hike to the bigger waterfall, Reina. It was delightful and at times a little challenging, but totally walkable. We opted to hike back to where we started instead of taking the cable car back so we could see more waterfalls and also avoid hanging in the air with nothing to catch us. About 20 minutes away from our destination we really experienced the cloud forest as it rained on us. Though soggy, it was actually a cool experience.
We also had asked our taxi driver to come back for us so we
were able to hop right in, go to our bungalow to change, and then we opted to
check out Mindo proper. We stopped at the Hummingbird Farm which was cool but
small and don’t expect to get any pictures of those little devils unless you
have a truly legit camera.
We opted out of our chocolate tour since we had such a great experience in Quito on the free tour and instead popped into a few shops, bought chocolate, did some wandering and then went to The Food Studio for dinner. It was delicious and a fun gastro experience in what felt like a strange setting, but highly recommend for truly great food.
Day 11: Mindo and Quito (La Floresta)
We had opted for a midday bus which gave us time to explore a little more before leaving Mindo. We got up and hiked to the butterfly garden which had an impressive amount of butterfly as well as orchids and other cool flowers in the gardens. Worth it, especially if you are staying where we were since you could walk there. We were able to enjoy our breakfast (seriously, so good) and then took the bus back to Quito.
The taxi from the bus depot to the Airbnb in La Floresta neighborhood was a long one but, thankfully, taxis aren’t expensive in Quito. We had a gorgeous afternoon and evening in a part of Quito that was night and day different from Old Town. I seriously couldn’t even recognize it as the same place and I am so glad we decided to try out a different part of town. I feel like, even though it was only one afternoon, I really understood that Quito is a vibrant, beautiful city and not just the busy and congested areas of Old Town.
La Floresta was a breath of fresh air with incredible street art and modern buildings.
We literally just walked up and down the neighborhood. It was Sunday so most of it was closed but it was still delightful. We also stumbled upon an incredible museum I highly recommend. The Casa Cultural Truge Sojka was a starkly moving experience. The life of Trude was both horrible and fascinating – she was a holocaust survivor and a truly gifted artist. We had the privilege of receiving the tour from her granddaughter. It was spontaneous and memorable. We just walked up and knocked, but, if you would like to go, it’s better to call ahead and make an appointment.
Ultimately, we visited a very strange ice cream place, GelatoMix, which we both said was an experience but perhaps not one we wanted to revisit. They put cream and cheese on top of all their ice cream at this shop. It was very busy though so it must be quite the hit for the Quito pallet.
Our final supper in Ecuador was at La Macaria and delicious with no strange cheese additions. It was literally less than a block away from our excellent Airbnb and had absurdly small baskets of chips on the table (at least, small for us hungry Americans) and I shamelessly asked for multiple refills. The food was excellent and well worth the over eating. From there we went up to enjoy our final Quito views and head home.
Day 12: Home
All in all, with 10 full days on Ecuador land and sea, Marjorie and I were able to wrangle together an incredible adventure. I highly recommend anyone who is coming here for their bucket list to put in a lot of thought and creativity. We saw SO much by being open to both rigid tour and flexible planning. The “must-dos” are often, yes, MUST dos. But there are so many wonderful side items that you can find and I encourage you to take the time to do so!