It was time to break in our kid’s passports. As you may know, children’s passports have a much shorter viability (five years) and I was not interested in letting them expire without a single stamp.
After a successful trip to California, I knew I wanted to get them back in the air again soon. It didn’t take me long to narrow down the area I wanted them to see. Central America was going to be so different than anything they had ever experienced in Chicago, San Francisco, Wisconsin, and Orlando. From the people, to the food, to the climate – I knew I would be thoroughly comfortable navigating while also getting them a whole bucket-full of “firsts”. The kids were 10 and 8 at the time of this trip and easily did all our activities.
I really liked our itinerary because we hit the major areas but were often adjacent to the big touristy moments which I think was a really great balance.
Volcan Tenorio instead of Volcan Arenal
Am I going to sit here and say you shouldn’t go to La Fortuna? Absolutely not – I’ve been and it has a lot of perks. But if you are looking for something in the area with similar (or the same) activities with way fewer people – try looking northwest of Fortuna and into the areas surrounding Parque Nacional Volcán Tenorio.
I’m a sucker for a hammock
After landing in San Jose (though the Guanacaste airport would have been faster, if more expensive) we rented the car and took the construction laden road north to stay at Agutipaca Bungalows. What a find this was. It was a true b&b run by the family with an incredible breakfast. Be aware their English is limited, but not their kindness.
epic breakfasts
They took us on multiple nature walks and patiently pointed out birds and so many sloths. If you want to see sloths in Costa Rice you must come to this area – we saw at least a dozen in our first few days, it was incredible.
pool at the bungalows
Outside of enjoying the grounds around our bungalow, we visited the park to do the Mysteries of Tenorio Trail. You will need to get passes to enter to be sure to follow the instructions online and listed on the AllTrails info.
Celeste Waterfall
It was a great hike with the kids. There was some parts that were strenuous to make it an actual hike, but nothing crazy. It had lots of beauty and the waterfall was really impressive. We did get caught in a massive downpour but otherwise we all had a fantastic time.
We also took an afternoon to do the Rio Celeste Tubing which was a ton of fun for the adults and kids. Run by a very local little tour group, the equipment was great and the guide was fun. It was extremely kid friendly with plenty of quick, easy rapids that allowed for screeching, but also nice calm waters as well. We didn’t book private but it was just our family which was a lovely surprise.
My kids absolutely sobbed when it was time to leave this spot, mainly because they had fallen in love with the resident dog. But it was time to switch gears and make our way down to the Pacific coast. This ended up being a much longer day due to some insane construction-related traffic. We had planned to do a 1pm Chocolate Tour on the way town but didn’t get there until 3pm. I had tried to WhatsApp and cancel but they assured me they would give us a tour whenever we arrived which was unbelievably sweet of them.
The tour at La Mona Golosa was very cute with great grounds where we could walk through the cocoa trees as well as a number of other spice trees. They showed us how the chocolate was made, had the boys taste the beans, and had them grind their own chocolate as well.
We obviously also made an obligatory stop at the chocolate cave for some purchases. Highly recommend this stop even if it is a bit of a detour based on their kindness alone. Truly authentic.
Parrita instead of Quepos
every sunset was incredible
Instead of staying in Jaco or Quepos, two very well known cities especially with proximity to Manuel Antonio, we opted for an Airbnb in the little outlet called Parrita. Did this mean a bit more driving? It did, but in my opinion it was absolutely worth it for the almost vacant beach we were literally steps away from.
We stayed at this airbnb that was perfect for our family. Gorgeous ocean views and extremely convenient to the beach, the pool, and even restaurants. While the whole community admittedly reminded me of a random gated community in Florida, it worked extremely well for our plans of being beach bums with a few outings.
We did take a day to drive into Quepos and experience Manuel Antonio National Park with a Nature Tour. Many people really enjoy this tour, but I was not one of them. It must have been our bad luck but we were traveling in massive packs of tourists even though we booked the earliest session.
nature walk/tour
And maybe it was because we had seen such incredible wildlife up in Tenorio already, but what we did view here was underwhelming. We did walk around a bit more of the park on our own but ultimately, I’d recommend skipping due to the crowds alone.
When our next tour had a guide problem and had to be postponed, we did make a quick choice to go to Sukia for some ziplining. The boys really enjoyed this and I really enjoyed that there is a butterfly cafe on site where I could sit and drink a nice lemonade while they hurdled through the air (no thanks, even though it did seem quite chill). This was a nice spot for not-to-dramatic zip lining but well run.
It was then time to go back and get on our Kayak tour through the mangroves. This was a blast for the kids as we had tandems so they could paddle (but did they? not so much). The tour guide brought bananas and threw the food so the birds would come swooping down. We also stopped and they fed the monkeys so they would come right down to us.
Is this the most sustainable of practice? I’m going to go with a no – and I do think you should consider if it’s the right thing to book this tour. We had a blast, but had I known that we were going to be actively feeding the monkeys in order to attract them, I probably would have opted out. That being said, it was a core memory to see a monkey standing on my 8 year old’s back. I also had a monkey lick banana off my cheek, and then there is this gem where Eric had a monkey on his shoulder.
All in all – be tourist adjacent in Costa Rice
As someone who has traveled to (almost) every Central American country (I’ll get to Honduras and El Salvador eventually), Costa Rica is beautiful but extremely touristy compared to the others. It doesn’t mean you shouldn’t go, but I do highly recommend looking around to some of the places that are a bit more authentic.
I promise with a bit more effort you can still see all the iconic spots while also supporting the actual community and getting incredible views and peaceful areas, too.
Sometimes all you need is one little picture or video of a place you’ve never heard of before and it’s enough to send you into a rabbit hole of research and bookings.
That was me and Bacalar. I don’t even remember where I first heard about the “Lake of Seven Colors” but once I did, I was hooked and knew I wanted it to be a place I explored – and it would ultimately make this my first trip to Mexico.
Day 1: Travel Day
We started our Christmas morning out bright and early with the flight to Cancun. Honestly, I had tried very hard to avoid flying to Cancun but United cancelled their direct flight option to Tulum which really put a wrench in our plans. Still, Cancun wasn’t a bad option and we got there without issues.
pool at our airbnb
We opted to pick up our car at the airport and then kept right on going so we can get to our airbnb in Valladolid for the night. This was a really cute spot with fairly eccentric but really nice hosts. The airbnb space was a little strange, to be honest, but still comfortable with a beautiful pool.
courtyard at the restaurant
That night we first went to Meson del Marques Restaurante on the recommendation of our host and, while a bit touristy, it did not disappoint. It set the standard for an truly endless list of incredible meals we had while in Mexico and particularly Valladolid. I had heard this was a spot for foodies and it absolutely is. Add in that each restaurant we went to was incredibly beautiful with indoor courtyard spaces and I was in heaven.
Day 2: Exploring Valladolid and Chichen Itza
We started the day with a nice breakfast at Caffeto Caramel and then wandered around to get the look and feel of Valladolid in the day time.
It’s a small enough city with a lovely square and plenty of streets to explore. The street facades are very unassuming but every place we entered held really beautiful secrets. The Carolin Cacao Cafe, for example, had a garden right off it that you could walk through and explore. Unfortunately the chai I had there was one of the worst I ever had, but I liked the little garden experience!
Around midday we made our way to Xoul Art. I had heard about first as a great spot for artisan work but then also learned you can do a very nice mezcal tasting as well. I am not a mezcal fan myself but Eric is and we were able to sit and get a taste of a few different styles and types. It was a nice experience and the art on display was absolutely beautiful though all on the pricy side. Still, it was a lovely gallery and well worth stopping in.
After a quick walk back to our airbnb, we finally got on the road to the primary destination for most tourists to Valladolid – Chichen Itza. I knew if I was going to come to the Yucatan peninsula it was an absolute must to see this famous world wonder.
We had heard about a dramatic light show that would happen after sunset and so our plan had been to get there about an hour before closing to get the ticket (you cannot buy them online) and then stick around for the night show. Unfortunately, the day we arrived the light show had apparently malfunctioned and it wasn’t possible to see it.
We were definitely bummed, but made the most of the situation and still used our day ticket to wander the grounds. We were seemingly too late to get a last minute guide – which turned out to be okay. A couple of the areas of the grounds were closing down but we still got to see what was really the primary space.
You’ll hear very mixed reviews of visiting Chichen Itza and I totally understand why. I’ve been to so many places where you get the vendors all lined up, constantly selling to you. This is normal and never bothers me. However, Chichen Itza was fascinating to me because the vendors are allowed inside the grounds. It definitely detracted from the experience and we didn’t even get the worst of it since most were packing everything away as we walked by.
That being said, I still insist that this stop is a must. Is it my favorite set of ruins I’ve seen? Absolutely not. But it’s powerful and important and some things are worth doing if you are there. I do highly recommend going in one of the last time slots of the day as we were able to wander and linger and really got the place to ourselves at the end. Plus, I think it would be really cool to try and do that night visit!
That night we went to Conato and again sat in such a lovely garden area. I had the weirdest combination of flavors in my “lasagna” of my life but it was absolutely incredible. Definitely worth a stop.
Day 3: Ek Balam and Cenote
Eric and I had been really torn about our adventures on this day as we had heard about the pink waters of Rio Lagartos and really wanted to try and visit them. However, we ultimately decided the drive wasn’t worth our limited time, especially when our airbnb host said that a visit to Ek Balam, another set of Mayan ruins, was absolutely worth it.
So, despite having done ruins the day before, we got up early and made our way there. It was ultimately a really great decision.
Ek Balam was a much quieter space. While certainly not without tourists, it really gave the vibe that you could actually explore and discover. Still very wooded, it gave much more the impression of still having more to find. You could also still climb a lot of the fixtures including one structure that was dizzyingly steep, but we made it.
It was also a great stop because just a little further down the path is a cenote that was absolutely perfect. Taking a dip in a cenote is a must-do when you’re in the area but it can be hard to choose which one. This is a perfect spot over if you are also visiting Ek Balam because the path is too narrow for vans or busses – so it has very few visitors. It was calm, beautiful, and peaceful.
After a good hour of tarzan swings and floating around, it was time to go back. We changed and then made the long-ish walk to Idilio Folklore Cervecero. This was another lovely stop with fun beers to try and, again, an amazing spot to sit. It did get busy and we found ourselves waiting far too long for our final, already ordered, course. Based on the frantic look on our waiter’s face, though, I don’t think that is a normal occurrence and shouldn’t shy you away from a great spot.
Day 4: Mayan Bees and Drive to Bacalar
It was time to say good-bye to Valladolid (and, honestly, perfect timing as we definitely felt we had seen everything we wanted to in town). But we did make one more final stop to do the Bees Tour. This was a really fun and short experience where we got to learn about the different bees in the area and try a number of different honeys.
looking at hives in an old cenote
When you travel as much as I do it can start to get hard to find a tour of something brand new – and this one was that for me. We got to look in at the different hives. It was a really cool experience. Plus the restaurant on site, La Colmena, served a nice breakfast for us right before we got on the road to drive to Bacalar.
hive
The drive to Bacalar was supposed to be somewhere between 4-5 hours and, based on the map, there weren’t a lot of stopping options along the way. A lot of people had expressed concern with renting a car in Mexico but, let me tell you, it was one of the easiest places I’ve driven abroad. The route we took between Cancun to Valladolid to Bacalar were some of the nicest roads I’ve encountered anywhere. Honestly, the biggest risk was boredom. I don’t think I’ve ever driven in a straighter line for hours at a time. It was kind of insane.
By the afternoon we made it Bacalar and our hotel, Rancho Encantado. We really ended up enjoying this spot – it was the perfect mix of being a hotel where you don’t have to leave the property, but not being too ritzy either. Every other tourist there was German or Scandinavian. We did get a bungalow with a private entrance to the lake which was really nice. We relaxed and had food on property that night. Eric’s mom had gifted us a private dinner which was very delicious.
Day 5: Bacalar
Sunrise view from our private dock
We originally had some pretty big plans when it came to time on the water on Bacalar Lake but storms rolled through and we opted to not do the sunrise Kayak trip. Instead we enjoyed an easy morning at the hotel and then made our way across Bacalar for some lunch and then to where we booked our Pontoon tour of the lake.
This ended up being a total bust as when we got to the site we were caught in an absolute torrential downpour. We parked and grabbed a beer while we watched the storm roll through. It was pretty cool on it’s own but it was becoming immediately apparent that spending the next three hours on a boat was going to be more like torture than fun. So we asked to postpone the activity and instead went back to our hotel for the night.
hard to tell, but it was pouring
We did end up finding a small window in the weather later that afternoon and were able to get an hour of kayak time on the lake on our own, which was really nice.
Now, looking back, I do highly recommend that if you are staying at any hotel with beach/lake access, you should just book tours through them. They all have their own kayaks/canoes/pontoons and we didn’t need to do a Get Your Guide adventure.
storms rolling through the lake of seven colors
Day 6: Pontoon Tour
The next day dawned beautiful and storm free and we trekked back to get our pontoon. We did end up with a snafu where the guide showed up almost an hour late but other than that it was really nice to get out on the water.
It wasn’t always immediately apparent while we were on the boat but because there are a lot of cenotes, there are many different depths, which is the primary reason why you can see so many different colors of the water.
look closely and you can see two different colors
It was pretty obvious that our tour guide had been a last minute replacement and didn’t normally do the tour, so he didn’t have much to tell us and we ultimately ended early but we were still really happy to have spent a few hours out on a beautiful lake in the sunshine.
Admittedly, once we were there, at one point Eric and I looked at each other and smiled. Coming from places like Wisconsin and Chicago, we didn’t really think about how lakes are very normal to us. In hindsight, coming all the way to Mexico to sit on a lake, gorgeous or not, was a little silly. But we still absolutely understand the appeal to this place that is very up and coming and will likely have a tourism boom in the very near future.
Day 7: Drive to Cancun
It was never our goal to spend any time in the touristy areas of Tulum or Cancun but given that we had to fly out early on New Years Day, we knew we would have to spend the night in the city with the airport the day before. So we got up, saw one last sunrise, and then headed out for another road trip after breakfast.
At first this drive was just as boring as the one previously but then we hit the wall that was Tulum traffic and tourism. And, wow – the difference was palpable. I found myself looking at the endless rows of resorts absolutely covering all beach access from everyone who actually lives in the area. It was… unsettling. I’m personally so glad we found quieter places to enjoy what felt like more Mexican experiences.
view from our airbnb on hotel row
We ended up at an airbnb in an old and beautiful building in Cancun for the night. I was absolutely smitten with this place and it’s incredible architecture. I had originally picked it because I wanted to try and repeat our experience in Puerto Rico where we had a rooftop space and could see all the New Years fireworks. We definitely caught some and it was a really special time.
We also got into Cancun in time to see the sunset and absolutely perfect cotton candy colored clouds over the water.
Day 8: Travel Home
We got up early to head to the airport, but not before catching a beautiful sunrise. It was a great way to ultimately round out our Mexican experience and head home the next day.
All in all, I’m really content with the iterinary we crazy for the Yucatan peninsula. I think we saw some of the best the country has to offer in this region. Valladolid is an absolute gem of a city with incredibel food and the proximity to the awe-inspiring ruins can’t be beat. And while Bacalar maybe didn’t have the wow factor I had expected, it was still incredible beautiful and still small in it’s charm.
For anyone willing or interested in a trip that isn’t primarily one resort (and no shade to those who do!), I highly recommend our path!
I’ve said it before – many people dream of being a true Digital Nomad: working from beaches, taking a meeting, and relaxing poolside while writing up a email.
But the reality is there are few jobs that allow for true flexibility post pandemic. Add in those of us who have other things that keep us rooted (ie: kids, spouses) and the life of a digital nomad feels unattainable.
Sevilla
And – that’s true. However, I have been using my company’s “work from anywhere” policy to it’s full advantage. We are allowed up to four weeks where our in-office policy is lifted. Most people use it to avoid December in the office. I did that – but decided to do it full out in Spain. For me, the key is to use Europe’s time zone to my advantage. I can explore by day, and work in the evening (keeping my normal CST hours) and I go for just one week.
It’s a way to get a taste of digital nomad life – while also only being away from home, kids, and responsibilities for a week. For me, it was a win/win. I chose Italy for my first foray into this plan and this time I returned for a third visit to Spain.
Sevilla at night
Day 1: Travel and Work
I started my travel on a Monday night, flying overnight to Madrid so I could land around 9am. I like to do as much of my travel as I can on the first day since we know that even if you get nice seats, an overnight flight will always suck our energy. I prefer to be out of it on a train instead of trying to explore a city so I kept right on going from Madrid to Sevilla.
Trains at Atocha
It’s an easy transition but there are logistics involved (plane to bus to train) but I did make it in time check in at the Catalonia Santa Justa. This was a good spot as it was very close to the train station and my room had this view.
Cathedral view while working
I’d seen Sevilla before so I knew exactly where I wanted to go when I had a break in my day around 10pm. Spain always comes alive at night and I felt at ease walking the short distance to the Setas that night to see the lights.
It had been raining but was mild and I took a minute to breath before heading back for a few more emails and then bed.
Setas
Day 2: Seville and travel to Jerez de la Frontera
Since I’d studied/lived in Spain twice before I had already seen a good portion of the country. I knew I wanted to spend my time somewhere new so I decided to stay in a lesser talked about town of Jerez de la Frontera. On the southwest side of the country, it’s right near Cadiz and is small but still easy to get around to other places.
The chia not being soaked at Chia was admittedly disappointing
I took the morning to grab breakfast at Chia and wander Sevilla, mainly spending my time revisiting old haunts (I had stayed there and studied Spanish for two weeks back in 2012). It was fun to wander around and see all the decorations they had up for Christmas as well, since I was there in early December.
By midday though I was back to get my bags and on the train down to Jerez. Upon arrival, I was immediately thrown into Spanish culture as I walked from the train through town to the main pedestrian street at 2pm because it was a total ghost town.
Jerez takes the siesta seriously which is something I neglected to think about when it came to my working schedule, but more on that later. I did stop and grab a few snacks for dinner and got to work.
I decided to start off my day at the Alcazar in Jerez de la Frontera since there was a risk of rain later. I hadn’t originally planned to visit, since the one in Sevilla was certainly more impressive, but after looking more into it I saw it was quite impressive and I’m glad I took the time.
Alcazar
I did a lot of walking and exploring Jerez – grabbing a tapas lunch at Tabanco San Pedro, which was delightful.. The city is not touristy at all, which was what I hoped to find, though it did make the hope for shopping for souvenirs a little difficult. While there were a few cute areas, there wasn’t a lot by way of small boutiques. It’s a much more practical sort of place that really comes alive at night.
Tapas lunch
This entire region is knowing for its sherry so I decided to fit in a last minute tour at Bodegas Lustau. Easily one of the things I hate the most about traveling alone is booking a tour only to find that I’m the only one on it and unfortunately this happened for this tour.
Bodegas
The woman still did a great job but I had to be far more engaged than I usually am and, since I don’t usually check a bag, I had to awkwardly slink away at the end with no gift shop purchases. That being said, it was a lovely tour and space and I do recommend the experience. They also distribute to the United States which was fun to then find what I had tried when I got back home.
Back to the apartment for work and eventually popped out for “dinner” of gelato at Margarita La Fresca. This gelato was bomb and close to my apartment. It became my go-to work break item.
Day 4: Clocks, Horses, and Constitutions
Early to rise for some breakfast and wandering in a different direction in Jerez. I found myself near a clock museum, the Museo Palacio del Tiempo, and decided to wander in. In a surprise to no one, I was there not long after opening and was the only patron. It quickly got awkward as there was apparently a power issue and there were no light in the space.
The woman said I could come back later but I knew that wouldn’t be an option with my schedule. I refused to let her refund me (she seemed to bereft) so she offered to let me wander the space in the low light until the electricity was fixed. It was actually a really cool experience that way and I did explore long enough for the lights to come back and in all their glory.
This is honestly one of my favorite museums ever. Not only having it entirely private, but it was so whimsical to hear all the clocks chiming each quarter of an hour. Highly recommend popping in.
One of the biggest draws to Jerez de la Frontera is the horse school, the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. It’s considered a must see with the dancing horses and while the crowds were quite low when I went (which I attribute to the time of the year) I did find the show really enjoyable. There’s a (very) small museum that wasn’t really worth the extra payment, imo, but seeing the horses do their thing at this classic establishment really did feel special.
sneaky photo since no filming is alowed
This was Friday, Dec 6th and this started a full weekend of celebration in Jerez that I had been completely ignorant of. This is their Día de la Constitución, and it felt like Independence Day and New Years Day in the way their festivities popped off. The city was absolutely buzzing so I took my “lunch break” at 10 and went down to the nearby, and iconic, Gato Azul.
Gato Azul
Google reviews aren’t the best but honestly the tapas were great, the sherry divine, and the people watching an incredible ten out of ten.
Absolutely vibing with my potato/tuna tapas and sherry
Day 5: Day Trip to Puerto de Santa Maria
I originally had thought I would go to Arcos on this Saturday day trip but the bus schedule was a bit rough so I instead opted for a trip to the closer and highly regarded Puerto de Santa Maria. My first stop was at La Cabana for breakfast. They were packed but I got a spot outside since it was a bit chilly and enjoyed a coffee.
Puerto de Santa Maria – view at La Cabana
This is a lovely little town to wander through. Still not heavily touristed but I did find my way to an excellent churros con chocolate at La Ponderosa. I had yet to stop for churros on this trip to Spain which was honestly, a travesty. This did make up for it.
10/10 and filled with families
The walk down to the water was not a short one, but it was a beautiful day, even if the beach itself wasn’t one that felt good for strolling on. I kept to the sidewalks (as did pretty much everyone else).
Coming back to Jerez, I ran into an absolute wall of Spaniards completely balling out for their holiday. I literally had no idea it was such a huge deal and, on top of that, Jerez was apparently the place for the celebrations. My entire street was completely shut down and I had to detour to get to my apartment since the pedestrian walk was covered in a massive stage.
The crowds!
It looked like a ton of fun and I did end up going back out to wander the streets, not only to feel the vibe, but also because I was determined to do one more sherry tasting, this time at Fundador. This is a very well known brand but I had been unaware they made one called “Harvey” and it felt obligatory to participate.
I wasn’t sure if they would be running tours, given the holiday, but it ended up being the opposite as there was a massive tour happening but I was the only English speaker. I had, of course, been practicing my Spanish up until that point but the one hour tour entirely in Spanish, followed by a group tasting where the table seemed absolutely tickled that they had a solo-traveler from Chicago, definitely made me dredge up some old language skills.
I ultimately walked back through the streets, realizing my only chance for food would be one of the street carts that came out of nowhere as all the restaurants were closed and bars that served tapas were packed.
Concert in front of the Cathedral
I ultimately stopped at a cart for a cone of fries but I had to draw the line at the palest hot dogs I’ve ever seen. There are some foods you just don’t buy outside your home country and for me, that’s a hot dog. It was there that I witnessed a group purchase the hot dogs and proceed to put mayo on them. It was an absolute travesty.
Day 6: Cadiz
This was taken still quite early in the night
Despite how late the partying went the night before, when I went down early to catch a train to Cadiz, the streets were absolutely immaculate. I literally have no idea how they could have possibly been cleaned, but they were. Magicians, I swear.
Cadiz
When I arrived in Cadiz I went to a free walking tour which are always a nice way to get a quick lay of the land of the city. This one was, unfortunately, a little boring as it was very ingrained it telling us the full history of the city (and like – there are roman walls. There is a lot of history). I also managed to arrive at the same time as a cruise ship which is never ideal.
Still, it was lovely to walk through all the streets of Cadiz. Much more touristy with lots of shopping, restaurants, and displays. Given the time of the year, there was a fun Christmas market set up in front of the cathedral.
I managed to do just about all my souvenir shopping in Cadiz. This city gives much more Andalucian vibes and the weather was gorgeous. It was a lot of fun to see everyone out with their families, walking along the waterfront or sitting out at cafes.
My train to Jerez was late and I immediately knew by the rest of the patrons heading in that I was due for another massive party in Jerez, and I was right. Everything was shut down again so I grabbed some mini donuts from a pop up and took them home to people watch on my last night in Jerez.
Day 7: Back to Madrid
Monday again so I needed to start early to make sure I could get everything done before my work day. I hopped the early train back to Madrid and checked in at Sleep’n Atocha. Great location to the train, which I needed, but definitely not ideal for working as this was the smallest room ever.
Not a bad office
They did have a rooftop so I was able to work from there instead of the cramped room, but it was definitely also a hang out spot so it was a bit awkward as I worked late into the evening. Still fun, though.
Puerto del Sol
Earlier when I first arrived in Madrid, I dropped my bags and then wandered Madrid. Like Sevilla, I had been the Madrid a number of times before. The streets were absolutely packed for the holiday and, I assume, Christmas shopping. It was fun to navigate the crowds as I walked closer and closer to Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol. I wanted to see what kind of decorations they had and I wasn’t disappointed – especially since there was a huge market up in the plaza.
Plaza Mayor
Ended up getting my last dinner at Oven Mozzarella which was a little silly but just around the corner and everywhere else (including 100 Montaditos which was going to be nostalgic) was absolutely packed. It ended up being quite good though and I did a quick little walk around Retiro to see some lights before heading back to work.
Lights around Retiro
Day 8: Travel Home
So – all in all – I managed to do all of this travel and still only took one out of office day (Tuesday) to fly back. This was my second time doing this work from anywhere cadence and I’m absolutely hooked. As a solo traveler, coming back for the evening around 3pm really isn’t much of a hardship as dinners and activities in the evening solo are often way harder to do – and are a bit more awkward. It’s easy to get up early, see everything, and be back in time for meetings.
Puerto de Santa Maria
I will admit that, while Spain will always hold a special spot in my heart, I don’t necessarily recommend it for this kind of travel. Perhaps it would work if you stayed in bigger cities, or, even better, the north of Spain where siesta culture doesn’t have quite as much of a stranglehold. I deeply underestimated how difficult it would be to get a robust lunch between 1-3pm which is usually what I do so I can just work through the evening and not have to worry about popping out to get dinner. That, coupled with the festivities, and I do feel like my food game was off this trip as I had to opt for convenience multiple times.
Still – Jerez and this Cadiz region was a whole vibe and felt very European. I only saw a couple of American tourists the whole time I was there and really enjoyed watching the Spaniards celebrate.
We all have our favorite spots in the world. For me, Bosnia is absolutely one of them. I cannot wait to spend even more time in the Balkans in the future. If you want a unique, still low on the list for most tourists, but stunning and very easy to navigate spot, this country is for you.
Sarajevo
Day 1: Travel
I will admit, travel to Bosnia is a smidge tricky. This is only because we didn’t have any direct flights from New York nor Chicago and layover options were also dicey. Marjorie and I decided to be creative and opted for a “long layover” in Poland so we could line up our flights to Bosnia together and also explore Poland a bit.
First evening in Warsaw
Marjorie arrived earlier this day but I didn’t until the late afternoon. We opted to stay in the more “up and coming” area of Warsaw, at the Moxy Praga. It was an easy spot for Marjorie to do a working day. I bopped around the cute area in the evening and grabbed dinner at Toast.
Cute lobby at the Moxy
This restaurant was much nicer than I expected but I really enjoyed my little meal and drink before heading back to the hotel room and absolutely crashing for the night.
Legendary toast at Toast
Day 2: Explore Warsaw
Marjorie had to spend one more day working New York hours so we did a morning free walking tour of Warsaw. I actually really liked the city – I thought it looked really nice to live there. However, I have to admit that, as a tourist, it was on the boring side. The unfortunate realities of war and how much had to be rebuilt. Still, the tour was interesting and a great way to get the layout of the city.
We had lunch at a truly delicious Lebanese restaurant, Le Cedre 61. I thought I would maybe explore a little more once Marjorie starting working for the evening but I ended up hanging around the hotel. It was a chilly day and all the sites remaining to see that we didn’t cover on our walking tour didn’t feel worth it and/or weren’t open so late in the year (rooftop gardens, etc)
We did opt for a hot chocolate flight near our hotel which like… how could we not? We also found our very on this day that the tour I had booked to Auschwitz (one of my lifelong bucket list spots) was going to need an absurd pick up time of 3am so we tried to get to sleep early.
Day 3: Auschwitz and Krakow
the sign
Auschwitz is about a four hour drive from Warsaw but I honestly assumed I would never be back to Poland so I knew I needed to take advantage of the proximity. Looking back, I would have figured out a different way to do it as the drive length plus the early pick up definitely dampened the experience.
That being said, I’m still glad I went and saw what so many of us in the US learn about multiple times throughout our schooling. Auschwitz was, in many ways, everything I expected and also completely different. I found the tour set up lacking in many ways. The sheer volume of tourists allowed in the spaces at one time made it hard to hear any of the guide and any of the displays with pictures or descriptions were always blocked by people. I understand the popularity of the experience but I hope they are able to limit more in the future.
Birkenau
Even with the dynamics of tourism, it was impossible not to feel the reality of the horror of such a place. I found it really hit me when we went the mile down the road to Birkenau where there was space to move at more of our own pace. Seeing the rail road and feeling the warm breeze felt jarring. The guide was finally silent to allow us to just experience the space. It was deeply moving.
After Auschwitz, we were able to spend a couple hours in nearby Krakow which is definitely a gem of a city.
in Krakow
After we were dropped off to explore, we stopped at Na Brackiej to eat. The food was delightful and the place was absolutely adorable. We then wandered the city, exploring the old and beautiful square and doing a little shopping. We didn’t have time on this trip but Krakow is absolutely worth an overnight stop.
traditional breakfast atNa Brackiej
Then it was a long drive back to Warsaw and to the Moxy for the night.
Day 4: Travel to Bosnia and Sarajevo Tour
flying into Sarajevo
The Warsaw airport is easy to navigate and we were able to catch our flight to Sarajevo with no issues. We had found ourselves a city tour, the Total Siege Tour, that offered an airport pick up. This started our strategy for the trip – combining tours with travel. It worked beautifully.
This Siege Tour is quite possible this was one of the best tours I’ve ever taken. I’ve traveled to many places that had experienced war and strife – obviously, we literally came from Auschwitz the day before – but nothing has quite humbled and hit me like Bosnia, and this particular tour, did.
Building entrance to the Tunnel of Life
First, it was led by a man named Edo. He was 53 and a veteran of the Bosnian War. He was able to tell us about remembering the 1984 Olympics, held in a thriving Sarajevo. Then he was in the war and siege from 1991-1995. And then there was now, where Sarajevo is again a beautiful city of diverse cultures and hosting tourists. Insane.
Tunnel of Life
We got to tour the Tunnel of Life that the Bosnians built under the airport/no man’s land.
He was able to talk about how the UN had to take people back who were trying to escape the endless siege of the city since they had to be “neutral”. The citizens were just trying to escape the constant bombardment and snipers. The tunnel was critical to the city being able to hold out. Learning about this from Edo was incredible – he himself went through the tunnel multiple times, including being carried through after he had been shot in the chest and stomach.
Edo, an absolute legend
He was constantly pointing out Serbian held areas that had bunkers. Bullet holes in facades were everywhere as well as the “Sarajevo roses” which are where they filled in the mortar shell holes with red resin to honor victims.
Bobsled track which we got to walk on
We went to the old bobsled track for the Olympics which had been converted into a bunker for the war and now is a place for graffiti art. It was raining and we were soaked but I found it absolutely fascinating. He also took us to the cemetery which had doubled as as bunker for the Serbians as well.
Bullet holes in the gravestones
After the tour Edo very kindly drove us way too far up the ancient, steep one lane roads to get us as close as possible to our airbnb. This spot was absolutely adorable with the nicest hosts ever (honestly, I could say that about everyone we met in Bosnia).
Day 5: Day Tour to Jajce, Travnik, and Pliva Lake
Mlincici
We rose early (always a general theme) to take a day trip to some of the most iconic views in the Bosnian country. It was another rainy day, but thankfully the rain happened primarily while we were in the van. Admittedly, the drive time was longer than I would have liked but our stops were definitely impressive.
Pilva Lake
We, get again, had a very cool guide in Gigi who was, literally, an Olympian. In the midst of the siege, he participated in the 1994 Bobsled race in Oslo. He was a wildly eccentric human which made our tour very memorable. As did the eclectic group of two Swedes, two Poles, two Italians, and us!
Jajce Waterfall
In the morning we took a long drive (almost three hours) to Jajce. There was a lot to see there – waterfalls and watermills, plus a beautiful lake. We also went to Travnik which had a fortress and a colorful mosque. There I had my first taste of Cevapi at Cevabdzinica Tenic where I immediately fell in love with the dish. I’m not even a big meat eater!
view from the Fortress in Travnik
The tour was longer than we would have liked so while it was nice, I do think this is one that could be easily skipped. Or perhaps take the opportunity to stay overnight in Jajce to break it up and have time to really explore.
Day 6: Tour down to Mostar
Konjic bridge
Yes, another day tour but we were yet again able to pair this up with our necessary travel needs as, instead of making it a day trip, we were able to end in Mostar, our next destination.
Dervish House
We had a very quick stop in Konjic to take a picture of the old bridge and then continued on to the Dervish House which was truly beautiful both inside and out. We were also able to take a quick walk up to the walls of a old Ottoman town and got the absolute best views over the valley.
We finally got some sunshine just in time for us to visit the Kravica Waterfalls which was ridiculously cool. We didn’t opt into the swimming and instead got some refreshment in the sunshine.
Kravica Waterfalls
Finally we made it to Mostar where we got a quick tour of the tour before they dropped us off practically on the doorstop to our airbnb. Bosnians do not skimp on their hospitality, I’m telling you.
The iconic Mostar bridge
Our airbnb spot was perfect – easily walkable to the old town and the train station. It was also just down the street from Blok Bar which we went to more than once. It was so convenient to our location and exceptionally reasonably priced. They had the equivalent of ~$3 cocktails. I really loved Bosnia.
5 KM = $3 USD
Day 7: Exploring Mostar
We finally had a day without a packed agenda and it was perfectly timed with gorgeous weather. We spent the day wandering early through Old Town which was fun as nothing was open yet.
At Caffe Cardak
We were able to get a table at the absolute cutest and instagrammable place above the Old Mostar bridge, Cardak. It was the best spot for Bosnian coffee and a little sweet treat.
View from Caffe Cardak
The shopping here was fabulous and we stocked up on lotions and souvenirs and art. We had a massive and delicious lunch at Urban which had an incredible view on the lovely terrace.
More wandering and gelato in the evening at Sky. This town is just as magical as everyone says it is.
Day 8: Exploring more of Mostar
We had another free day here at I think we really made the most of it. We opted to wander further away from Old Town and it was still beautiful. First we stopped by the famous sniper tower (former bank location). You can’t go in, but it’s covered in art.
looking up at the sniper tower
There is a whole promenade really near the famous sniper tower where I took advantage of a woman giving out Free Hugs. Along the promenade there are still completely destroyed buildings. But also so much that has been repaired has been done artistically, instead of erasing.
along the promenade
We did circle back to see Old Town one more time and stopped for coffee at the beautiful space of Fabrika on recommendation from our airbnb host. Very worth it.
Fabrika coffee
In the afternoon we decided to explore Fortica Hill for its incredible viewpoint. We took a taxi up to save time but then walked the full hour down the hill which was really energizing and beautiful.
Fortica Hill Viewpoint
We also stopped at the cutest little pizzeria (Sara) for dinner and the sunset.
Pizzeria Sara
It ended up being a chill and easy day where we really saw more of the city. I feel like we truly saw Mostar and had truly endless amounts of positive interactions with the citizens of Mostar. They were all so lovely.
Mostar
Day 9: Travel back to Sarajevo
Latin bridge
We hopped a very early train back to Sarajevo. It’s a beautiful ride but it was also rainy/foggy so we didn’t see as much of it as we did on the way down in the van. Still, it was comfortable and we were able to go straight to the Hotel Sana to check in. While not the most up to date hotels we’ve been in, it was convenient and the staff was nice.
Coffee and people watching at Caffe Anya
Then we walked – we really wanted to explore and see Sarajevo since we had so little time the first night we stayed. We had a couple coffee shop stops and I was finally able to try burek. Even though we went to the most famous location, I wasn’t very impressed, to be honest.
Sarajevo Rose
But I did find the city immensely impressive. I love the split of east/west vibes. All the shopping and people in one area. And of course the river and beautiful bridges spanning them as well.
Day 10: Travel Home
Our flights didn’t quite match up so I did have to travel home before Marjorie, but there was an easy bus to walk to so I did – though I am very jealous of the extra time she got in this beautiful country.
Pomegranates
I loved Bosnia and everything I saw there. The cities and country were gorgeous. The people were all so unbelievable kind. Add in the fascinating and moving history and it’s a place I cannot wait to go back to.
Did you know that 4th graders get free National Park passes? Once I heard about the program, it was the perfect excuse for us to plan our first family vacation that wasn’t Disney World. We took this trip in July/August 2025.
Lassen Volcanic National Park
We asked our oldest a few questions to see what he might want to do for his 4th grade trip. He had always been interested in Alcatraz and that was the perfect way to kick off our plan. We could aim for a couple days in San Francisco but layer it with nature in Northern California.
Originally, my mind went to Yosemite National Park but, given we were traveling at the busiest time of the year, with two amateur travelers, we wanted something a little more chill. So we landed on Lassen Volcanic National Park instead. We came up with an itinerary that ended up being the perfect experience for our 7 and 10 year old boys who had only ever before seen Illinois, Wisconsin, and Orlando.
Muir Woods
Day 1: Travel
We left early on a Sunday from Chicago and flew direct into Sacramento. We grabbed a rental car and started the drive up to our first airbnb in Mineral, California – a prime base for Lassen Volcanic National Park.
Iconic walk to C gates at ORD
We stopped quickly for food at a random spot that actually would have been super fun to enjoy more had we planned for it as there was fun swim options for the kids. Instead we just enjoyed an easy beachy lunch at Edgewater Coastal Bar & Grill before really getting on the road. The drive was very easy, though boring and about three hours long. It was just endless orchards which I enjoyed looking at but the kids found interesting for approximately 30 seconds.
Getting to Mineral was a welcome relief and charming – we really liked our airbnb there. Easy, fun, in a tiny little group of houses. It has a small playground directly across the street which was clutch for the age of our boys. It also ended up being a great spot for Lassen so definitely a recommended location. It’s remote in all the right ways.
View of the park from our airbnb’s front yard!
Day 2: Exploring Lassen Volcanic National Park
Lassen
How is this not a better known/popular park? I am a very big fan of Lassen. Even in the height of summer travel (late July), the park was exceptionally easy to enjoy. We needed no reservations for parking or for preparing entry. We did get there early to enjoy the Bumpass Hell Trail.
View of Bumpass Hell
Highly recommend this path for anyone but very doable with kids as it’s overall length is just over 3 miles. Really beautiful with great vistas and a well marked and maintained path. It ends with the exceptionally cool sulfur pits which, even as an experience traveler, was a very unique sight. Super fun with little boys as it’s also smelly (but not oppressively so).
We were practically the only hikers!
It was still early when we were done and we wanted to make the most of the experience so we continued on to to the Manzanita Lake Loop (another 2 miles). Totally different vibes and a very easy walk around the lake. While not as unique of a landscape, there were a couple spots where you can get some exceptional views of the mountains.
Manzanita Lake
We stopped by the visitor center for some quick snacks before heading back to our airbnb for the rest of the night. Literally a “block” away from our airbnb was a general store and the Mineral Restaurant. The food is absolutely nothing to write home about but an easy little spot.
Day 3: Road Trip toward San Francisco
We got on the road early and starting making our way down to San Francisco. We intentionally made it a bit of a road trip and took the windy way with a path to the ocean. It was perhaps a bit too windy and for the first time ever we learned our children actually are capable of getting car sick. This prompted an unscheduled stop at the Petrified Forest. Though very hot it ended up being a fun little detour.
At the Petrified Forest
Back on the road we drove west to Bodega Bay so we could give the boys their first glimpse of an ocean. First we grabbed food at Fisherman’s Cove which had a mean fish and chips among other delicacies. We took some time to do a ~2 mile circuit around Bodega Bay. A set of wooden stairs goes down to a small beach and the boys spent almost a half hour frolicking in the frigid waves. First steps in the ocean – check.
Pacific Ocean = First Ocean
The rest of the drive to our airbnb in Mill Valley was uneventful. The house was lovely with plenty of space and a hot tub (yessss). After we got settled we walked down some ridiculous steep stairs that were totally worth it for some tasty food at Joe’s Taco Lounge.
Day 4: San Francisco and Alcatraz
We opted for the earliest ticket to Alcatraz (don’t forget to book this way in advance) which, in hindsight, was perhaps too early. It seems the culture in this area isn’t quite as early to rise as we could find literally no open restaurants in Mill Valley (we arrived 10 minutes after “opening” to the only restaurant option, only to find to a completely dark and locked building) and even getting into San Francisco proper we were met with 8am and later options. Chicago would never.
Desperate to eat before getting on the boat, we grabbed sandwiches at Starbucks and then went to the port where there was quite a bit of waiting before we managed to get on the boat and across the water. You’ll hear how cold it is in summer and that was absolutely true especially for the early boat on the water.
But Alcatraz was really fun, especially for the kids. They were absolutely locked into the audio guide which they could easily do themselves. It’s a well done museum that, in my opinion, was the perfect length. We didn’t linger too long but it was still about midday when we came back across.
Since we were close, we took some time to check out Pier 37 and see the seals. There otherwise isn’t a whole lot to do other than kitschy shopping so we didn’t stay long, but it was a nice quick stop since we were in the area.
On a mission to get to Mission Bay (see what I did there) to pop into the Uber headquarters and meet a colleagues, we opted for lunch in Chinatown. We went to R & G Lounge. The food was excellent, though the ordering was a bit overwhelming (ie: authentic for us amateurs). The kids then hung out at the Mission Bay Kids Park where they had a blast before it was time to head back across the bridge for the night.
Day 5: Muir Woods
Seeing the Redwoods was another must and, while Yosemite has the really big ones, Muir Woods was an easy stop and did not disappoint. Mill Valley is the perfect spot to stay as Muir Woods, unlike Lassen, is a very busy park! Don’t forget to reserve your parking in advance. Normally you should do your tickets, too, but if you are using the 4th grade pass, you can just go to the ticket counter and they’ll get you all set it. It was very fun to see my 4th grader get his own pass card and usher the rest of us in as his guests.
We did the almost 4 mile hike that included Fern Creek, Lost, and Canopy Trail in a loop. It wasn’t too strenuous and was absolutely a must to get away from the crowds. Even with going early, the main wooden bridge path got busy and, worse, noisy. It was a special kind of magic to go deeper into Muir Woods. Even though the redwoods thinned in that area, it was hushed and the kids really enjoyed seeing the banana slugs.
Post hike we went back to enjoy the airbnb and eventually made our way to Hook Fish Co based off a recommendation and – let’s face it – I still dream about those tacos. This place is a whole vibe and I highly recommend going if you are ever in the area.
Day 6: Back to San Francisco
With Alcatraz sucking up most of the day, we knew we wanted to get back into SF and show the kids the iconic spots. We opted for a very touristy GoCars tour booked through Get Your Guide and holy cow, this was actually really fun. I was a bit nervous to drive them myself but clearly the San Francisco drivers are used to these zipping around because no one seemed to mind us. Yet again, I was shocked by the way this city is different behavior wise to Chicago. The density of Chicago’s downtown traffic would never allow for these little things to be zipping around and taking up space.
But we really enjoyed it – though even the short route got a little long for the kids. Still, it was the perfect way to get to all the best spots – photo ops for the Golden Gate bridge, Nob Hill, etc were super easy. We also got to drive down Lombard Street which was really fun. Highly recommend.
That afternoon, Eric met up with his own kind of “colleagues” and did an interview down at Free Gold Watch for pinball. The boys and I headed to the very close by Koret Children’s Playground where they had a blast before we grabbed the boys favorite food at Super Duper Burgers. Which, honestly? Can’t complain.
Koret Childrens
One final stop at the Tunnel Tops/Outpost Playground for a view of the bridge and then it was back to Mill Valley where we had actual sunshine (I was desperate) and enjoyed the last night in our airbnb.
Day 7: Travel Home
Uber to the airport and we were back!
Bodega Bay
All in all, it was a really solid first domestic trip for the kids. Being city kids already, we were cognizant that just going to another big city wasn’t going to mean much. But we were able to hit the things that we truly unique for them while also incorporating two national parks. I highly recommend our stops for a bit of everything without it being too jam packed.
Many people dream of being a true Digital Nomad: working from beaches, taking a meeting, and relaxing poolside while writing up a email.
But the reality is there are few jobs that allow for true flexibility post pandemic. Add in those of us who have other things that keep us rooted (ie: kids, spouses) and the life of a digital nomad feels unattainable.
And – that’s true. However, this year I experimented with my company’s “work from anywhere” policy which allows up to four weeks where our in-office policy is lifted. Most people use it to avoid December. But I decided to try something a little different. I did two separete weeks solo traveling Europe – exploring by day, and working in the evening (keeping my normal CST hours).
Massa Lubrense from the water
It’s a way to get a taste of digital nomad life – while also only being away from home, kids, and responsibilities for a week. For me, it was a win/win. I chose Italy for my first foray into this plan and it worked out spledidly.
Day 1: Arrival
One of my biggest travel tips is to do as much distance as possible on the first day. No matter how “nice” the plane ride is, I always find it draining and the first day tends to be wilted. So, just keep going and get as far along as possible.
I took a late flight out on a Friday so I didn’t have to take a vacation day and arrived about midday on Saturday to Naples. I immediately grabbed the bus to Sorrento. Though I’m usually a train girly, I highly recommend this strategy. The bus was easy and straight forward.
Absolute perfect office set up
Because I knew I was going to be spending the majority of my evenings working, I opted for a really comfortable airbnb in a smaller town. My goal was to get that lived-in feel and not feel pressured to see every nook and cranny of a larger city in my limited time.
I chose The Lookout of Pipiano which is in Massa Lubrense, a town west of Sorrento. It was a dream spot with an exceptional host, Caterina, who helped me book outings. She also arranged to pick me up in Sorrento.
I’m a huge fan of this airbnb and little town and would highly recommend it if you are coming to this very touristy Amalfi coast are of Italy. This town still feels local and quiet. While I liked Sorrento as well, if you are looking for beauty, quiety, and vibes while still having excellent access, this town, and particularly this airbnb, is a gem.
Always a sucker for an outdoor space
Once I was settled in the airbnb, I took the 5 minute walk town to the port and went to Angelo’s for dinner. This restaurant became my hangout for the week. The food was the best I had all trip, the view of the dock and sunset was to die for, and the staff was so sweet to me. It’s easily the thing I miss the most from my whole trip.
Beautiful view from Angelo’s
Day 2: Amalfi Coast Boat Tour
Being a Sunday, I made sure to do one of the more full-day activities I wanted to do. Caterina had provided a whole list of options when I booked the airbnb and I eagerly took her up on it. This is key because while there were very similar tours listed on places like GetYourGuide (which I do love, btw), having Caterina arrange meant that I was able to get picked up at the local Massa Lubrense dock and didn’t need to get a ride or 40 minute bus into Sorrento.
Amalfi from the sea
The biggest decision had been to do either Capri or a boat ride down the Amalfi Coast- it was tough but I opted for the coast and took a tour very similar to this one – where we stopped at Amalfi and Positano and I really enjoyed it.
The boat left the dock at 9am. It took a good hour or so to go down the coast. It was actually choppier than I expected, given how close we were to the shore, but nothing my nausea pills/patches couldn’t handle. We stopped at Amalfi first and, while beautiful, it wasn’t my overall vibe.
Cathedral in Amalfi
With one long main road it’s absolutley packed with tourists and tourist catered stores. Lots of fun knick-knacks to shop for, but towns like that always make me a bit sad – it’s lost so much of it’s original charm.
That being said, I did locate a pizza place, Pizzeria Donna Stella, that was tucked away in a courtyard with lemon trees that was very cute. For me the pizza was only okay, but it was worth it for the vibes and plenty of seating. At the end of the tourist street I took a break – it was so hot – and grabbed a cappuchino and lemon cake that was exceptional at Bar Della Valle.
Courtyard at Pizzeria Donna
Then it was back to the boat and further down the coast to Positano. I liked the town of Positano much more, as a lot of the space to explore is more spread out and built steeply into the cliffside. It reminded me of the towns on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala.
Absolutely beautiful but also brutal to explore. I was sweating profusely and fighting for my life to climb to places that looked open on Google maps only to find they weren’t (I blame that it was Sunday).
Positano
Still – the views were great and I did soothe myself with gelato from the appropriatley named Yummy and later a limoncello spritzer from Sole where they had a nice patio for people watching.
All in all, the times in town were decent especially if you are like me and quickly get overwhelmed by tourists and touristy things. The boat and sunshine of the ride was lovely. Definitely a day trip worth taking in the area.
Day 3: Exploring Sorrento
Monday morning rolled around. The whole plan was to spend the day exploring and then work Chicago time in the evening. When it’s 3pm in Italy, it’s 8am in Chicago. I decided I would do some of my own exploration on this first working day. I walked up the steep but simple path to the main town of Massa Lubrense, grabbed a coffee at Bar Dolcevi, and easily caught the bus into Sorrento.
breakfast as Bar Dolcevi
I had hoped to do a walking tour but apparently I was the only one who signed up so the tour ended up being cancelled. So instead I just wandered up and down the main streets of Sorrento. While I didn’t learn much, it was actually nice. There are a couple main streets with lots of shops and food.
Sorrento street
It’s also nice to walk all the way to the cliffside to look out over the water and the unique beach club where you can actually take an elevator down to the water (which I did not do). Sorrento was really pretty to me and, if I needed to come back but be in a larger area, it’s for sure where I would stay.
Sorrento beach clubs below
I did hit a snafu on my return bus. I completely missed my stop for home. I hadn’t realized that, even though I was on the right numbered line, they had different routes and the road that led to my airbnb was completely skipped.
It ended up being pretty funny. I was the only person on the bus and took a very scenic ride all around the peninsula and all the way down to Marina del Cantone.
Bus windows don’t make for good photo ops
The roads were steep and narrow and it was like being on an amusement park ride. The bus driver kept looking in the mirror and was clearly concerned. But, with no real language in common, I just shrugged, said I was fine, and kept riding until we came to a larger town where I felt certain I’d be able to find my way back.
That ended up being Sant Agata sui Due Golfi. After identifying when the next bus should be, I made the most of the stop and grabbed lunch at Racy which had a lovely lemon pasta special. The town looked cute but by then it was just after 2 and I had to get back for work. So it was back on the bus and it took me cleanly to Massa Lubrense. I was home about ten minutes before my first work meeting.
Day 4: Lemon Farm
Working until midnight Italy time (5pm Chicago time) and then getting up early enough the next day is a bit rough but doable for just a week. On Tuesday I reserved a day trip to a local lemon farm, La Masseria. I booked mine through Caterina so they picked me up in Massa Lubrense but this tour is almost certainly the same thing.
I really enjoyed this experience. It’s family run, 4th generation, and a beautiful space. They walk you through the vibrant lemon trees, offer photo ops, and unique information. I learned that that Sorrento lemon trees can’t be grown from seeds, but are instead spliced. It was the perfect amount of information with also some other delightful farm details (they also have olive trees, some animals, etc) and tastings. They even did a full, sit down lunch which was tasty and just generally really fun.
It’s simultaneously a well-run operation while also being very small and local. Highly recommend this experience if you are staying in the area. And it ended in the early afternoon which was plenty of time for me to get back to the airbnb and set up for work.
Day 5: Travel Day
water views in Naples
Wednesday morning I grabbed the bus early into Sorrento, checking out of the delightful airbnb. It was going to be a travel day to Naples where I planned to stay and work for the remainder of the trip to be well positioned for the airport.
The bus outside my airbnb took me up the hill where I tranferred to the bus to Sorrento. There I opted for trying the train to Naples. I had heard mixed reviews on the train and I understand why – for the distance to Naples, it felt more like a subway style train than a regional one. But it was easy and I was able to get into Naples without confusion.
Spanish Quarter
I opted for an airbnb in the old part of the city, what they call the Spanish Quarter. It’s aptly named, it very much reminded me of the Born neighborhood in Barcelona. I stayed here, and thought it was a great spot. It’s fairly bare bones but it’s in a great location, the owner was super kind, and I’m a sucker for a balcony.
Once I dropped my bags I took to the streets for some general exploration. This tends to be a polarizing city and I unfortunately am siding with the haters. Naples is one of the few places I’ve traveled that I truly disliked. Some people love it and, to each their own, but I was not a fan. The energy reminded me of a low-budget tourist experience. Tourists walked around exhausted and cranky, like 5pm at Disney World. Meanwhile the locals seemed irritated by everyone, tourists and neighbors alike.
hectic yet iconic Naples shopping center
Both the restaurants I went to on this day for lunch and dinner, though rated highly, were very mid experiences so I won’t be listing them. Once I was back to start working, though, I did enjoy being able to sit above the Spanish-style streets in my airbnb, emailing and listening to the bustle below.
Another office I can’t complain about
Day 6: Pompeii
The main reason why I came to this part of the world was to see Pompeii and my tour day was finally here! From my airbnb I took the subway back toward the main train terminal and walked a number of very chaotic streets to find the pick up location.
I booked the tour through GetMyGuide. While this was totally fine, I would personally recommend finding something else. Our guide on-site in Pompeii was quite lovely but the pick up experience, van, and overall care put into the experience was lacking. Honestly, though, it very much matched the vibe I got all through Naples.
insane preservation
But back to Pompeii – what a special place to see. The guide took us through a small portion. It’s huge, so there are a variety of lengths of tours you can get through GetYourGuide or others – but I kept it fairly short since it was a work day. We still saw a lot and received plenty of really interesting details. It’s definitely worth a visit.
Vesuvius chilling back there like he didn’t do nothing
After Pompeii I had time before work to do a bit more exploration of Naples. I was determined to find a neighborhood I liked, but failed. I took the very old funicular up to the castle and wandered that less touristy area but didn’t see anything differently. I also had a very lackluster pasta experience there as well.
From the castle viewpoint
Thankfully, the pizza I had when I was able to sneak away from work for dinner was worthy so if you are in the Spanish Quarter of Naples, Pizzeria Laezza is a solid stop. It’s also fun because you sit in the narrow road with people and scooters zipping by. It was a very Naples experience (in a good way!)
The most Naples picture ever
Day 7: Travel Home
Friday morning, I did walk through the Spanish quarter in the morning to find a coffee and chill with my book. It ended up being awkward as it was immediately apparently I had taken some old Italian man’s usual spot. He was in luck, though, as I didn’t linger. It was back to the airbnb to pack, check out, and head to the airport.
“graffiti” in Massa Lubrense
All in all, I really loved this mini experiment and was one I quickly realized I would be repeating (stay tuned for my post on the next time I did this, in Spain). While working in the evening really messed with my sleeping habits, it was a really great balance for me. I didn’t have the work stress that inevitably comes when taking time off, but I still got to see and do amazing things.
Views in Sorrento
Doing it solo allowed for a ton of personal flexibility and I never felt guilty dragging a travel buddy back early, nor did I have FOMO about needing to be back in the room while they would still be exploring.
And while Naples was not a place I would ever intentionally go back to myself, I do think this was a great area to do a quick working week – I feel like I was able to see a lot without feeling like I missed out on anything either.
Visiting Panama in January 2025 was a bit surreal. Marjorie and I, being the planners we are, had an entire Panama trip booked years before – but it never happened. Our early 2021 trip to Panama had been thoroughly thwarted by a little something called a global pandemic.
As life went back to normal, we hesitated on rescheduling Panama. Not only did it dredge up some scratchy memories, but as things were still in flux through about 2023, we wanted to be sure we weren’t at risk at missing one of the most important things (the Panama Canal, of course).
So, 2025 came around and we finally redid the itinerary – making it even better in our opinion. Our travel path is a bit unconventional in all the best ways. Looking back, we really got all the features of Panama and it’s high on the list of favorite places.
Day 1 -Flight in Panama City
I flew to New York and we coordinated our flights to take the same plane down to Panama City. It was a day flight and we landed at 8pm. We decided to play it easy and used Marjorie’s points at the Marriott in Panama City We got a little ice cream pick me up and then went to bed, ready to start the next day’s adventures.
Day 2 – Drive to El Valle
We chose the Marriott we did so we could walk to the rental car spot the next day. We did this because all the blogs we read said that renting from the airport in Panama was a nightmare and to avoid doing it. We also wanted to avoid needing to pay for and park our car for a night we didn’t need. So we chose the National in Obarrio.
Was this actually easier? I’m not sure – we definitely had great service from that branch of National but, outside of Old Town, Panama isn’t a super walkable city. Both the pick up and drop off of the car outside of the airport was a less convenient as I had hoped.
The “valle” of El Valle de Anton
But we ultimately got our wheels and started the 2-3 hour drive to El Valle de Anton. We did a lot of driving on this Panama trip and, while it was very easy to navigate, this was definitely a country with extensive pot holes. Driving took a lot of concentration and dodging but was ultimately easy.
Since we arrived on a Sunday, we made sure to stop at the El Valle Public Market all the blogs will mention. It was… not great. It’s just like any other market you’ll see and “artisan” was pushing it – it was standard souvenir fare. We did stop for lunch at El Rincon which was decent if not mind-blowing.
After lunch, we checked into our Airbnb. It was so delightful. Cute rooms with two lovely patios equipped with hammocks. Really friendly and walkable to town. The grounds were very beautiful with lots of birdsong too. Don’t hesitate to snag this spot.
After we got settled, we headed for our first hike, Cerra la Silla. Huge props to this blog for her in-depth hiking info! We never would have found this hike with it, but it was a perfect first one.
It’s easy to drive to the “entrance” – we left the car on the side of the road well before the actual trail. So there is a long walk before you even start the hike. At the end, you do have to pay a small fee (I think $5) to go on the private property. Very easy, and the path is very well marked.
The entire Cerra la Silla hike was gorgeous. A bit narrow at times but truly breathtaking. We didn’t get to the very end of the trail because it was so windy and we both got extremely nervous on a very narrow stretch. We decided we’d just enjoy the view where we were and not get blown off at the very beginning of our trip.
Marjorie almost braving the wind
It was a great hike that left us perfectly worn out. After we climbed down, we had dinner at The Golden Frog, which I definitely recommend. Super cute and very tasty (looks like a nice option to stay as well!)
Day 3 – El Valle and more hiking
I needed to start our morning with a little sustenance, so we walked into down and stopped for caffeine at Kare Coffee. Very cute spot with a delightful latte.
Kare Coffee
Our second hike in El Valle was to see La India Dormida. This is a popular hike for the area and totally different than yesterday’s from a landscape perspective, which was really fun. Much more jungle-like with a beautiful waterfall.
It also was a bit more challenging than we expected but in a fun way versus a scary way. Though there were some slippery parts, and a little scrambling, it was very do-able. Highly recommend using All Trails for this hike as there were a couple spots where we had to zig vs. zag and having the app kept us confident. They also let you take/rent walking sticks for 1 euro at the base of the climb and they were a great euro spent!
We were so worn out and sore after two days of hiking so we ended the day with an early dinner at La Ranita which had a lovely little patio and really great guac and ropa vieja. Definitely worth stopping and there’s even ice cream just another block down!
Day 4 – El Valle –> Santa Catalina
We knew the drive to Santa Catalina would be a long one so we got on the road fairly early, but not before a quick meal at Heaven’s Cafe. Perfect spot for breakfast and clearly a local fav as well.
Honestly, the first part of this road trip was terrifying. The route out of El Valle takes you high into the mountains on lesser used road. You have to go up very narrow roads with lots of switch backs. This in of itself isn’t great, but they were also in extremely poor condition so I was often forced to drive on the wrong side of the road and just hope no one was coming down the other side. I’m not confident I’ve ever literally white-knuckled a drive before but, we made it!
Once we were past the first bit, it was easy driving through really beautiful country. The last hour of our trip was on completely dirt/gravel roads as they were expanding and building what would surely end up being a very nice highway. For now, though, it was more pot holes and heavy concentration.
We finally made it to Catalina’s Hideaway which, let me tell you, is an absolute gem. What a lovely little oasis – right on the beach but also with a pool and the cutest cabins. The cabins were on the river and not the ocean but it was still really beautiful.
Just LOOK at this cabin!
The restaurant on site was top notch, which was good because we didn’t realize how far away Catalina’s Hideaway was from Santa Catalina proper (another 30 minutes one way, due to the road construction). Not a big deal, just good to plan ahead. We had to go into town to pay ahead for our snorkel trip, so we stopped at Surfer’s Point for a pretty decent acai bowl with a great view.
Day 5 – Snorkeling Day Trip to Coiba
When we chose to go to Santa Catalina we definitely knew we were passing up other known hot spots (think: David and Boquete). But Marjorie and I love a little unique-ness to our explorations and when I say this gamble paid off, it really paid off.
This snorkeling day trip with Premier Coiba Tours from Santa Catalina is an absolute must-do. I was very nervous when we first arrived and I saw the small size of the boat because I’m very prone to sea sickness. I honestly almost turned around but decided I would make it work and I am SO glad I did.
coconuts included ❤
The guides were fantastic and the entire day was perfect. They also do overnight trips on Coiba which we almost booked but decided we didn’t have time for – if you can make the time, I would recommend giving it a try, because I bet it’s incredible.
The beauty of this area is top notch. They give a short tour on the island of Coiba which is full of rich history. We learned about the former prison there (it was only closed about 20 years ago!) – it gives Alcatraz vibes. It was simultaneously fascinating and beautiful. We got back on the boat and they took us to eat lunch on literally one of the most beautiful beaches I’ve ever been on.
literal paradise
And the snorkeling? Devine. They stopped at three spots that were all great and unique. They compare this place to the Galapagos and it’s an apt comparison – the water quality and fish variety is right up there with the Galapagos snorkeling we experienced.
having a BLAST
Day 6 – Chilling at Catalina’s Hideaway
Rest day! We were absolutely beat from the full day of snorkeling so we were very hyped for our day of relaxation and books. We enjoyed food and drinks by the pool from the resort. Everything was delicious.
absolutely perfect for reading
Day 7 – Road trip back to Panama City
We had a lazy-ish breakfast at Catalina’s Hideaway before checking out and hitting the road. It was another long trip (5-6 hours of driving) but our only objective was to get to Panama City in time to return our car – mission achieved.
Our airbnb in Panama City was amazing. Right in Casco Viejo, it was beautiful and perfectly located. I was in love with the wrap around balcony and, despite the heat, I spent a lot of time out there people watching. The space itself was incredibly nice and comfortable – don’t hesitate to book this spot.
my balcony ❤
Day 8 – More exploring of Panama City
Panama City is hot but that didn’t stop us from taking a nice, long, and really beautiful walk on the lovely ocean path called Cinta Costera. Between the skyscrapers and the ocean it was reminiscent to me of Chicago in the best ways.
We stopped at the Panama sign to get some pictures and then made our way back to Old Town.
For lunch we hit up the Snack Shack which was just down the block from our airbnb. Cute indoor space with lots of very fresh food options. Well worth a stop.
In the afternoon, we took advantage of this Airbnb Experience to make our own chocolate bar. This was really cute and fun. It’s a super small operation called Nomé. In addition to being delicious, you were supporting something very local. We bought a lot of chocolate for gifts and the chocolate making experience was easy but fun. Definitely an excursion that was worth it.
you get to make two bars per person!
The day before we had decided we really wanted to try out a rooftop bar/restaurant as it’s supposedly a must-do in Panama. So we made reservations at CasaCasco and went up there just before sunset. You’ll definitely want to make reservations if you are going for views because it got very busy and most of the tables were reserved. I will say the food here was very mid, so I recommend going just for drinks and views. They were also playing the music at club-volume so don’t expect to have a conversation, just vibes.
#vibes
Day 9 – Hiking and, finally, the Panama Canal
We wanted to get some more walking in so we decided to explore the Cerro Ancon Reserve in the morning. It was definitely a nice wooded area that was quite busy with locals getting in their exercise. Quite steep but we did make it to the top. It was beautiful along the way but unfortunately a lot of the vistas were pretty overgrown. I wouldn’t consider it a must-do activity for the city but it was a nice option for us.
view of Panama City’s skyline from our hike
Then, in the afternoon, we finally made it to the Panama Canal, which really is an absolute requirement if you are in Panama. There are buses, but we found Uber to be the easiest option. As someone who isn’t necessarily super into ships or engineering or anything, I figured I would find it mildly interesting. But, honestly? It was so cool to see.
it was crazy how far the ships lowered
We debated heavily the best way to see the canal – you can do tours on boats right on the water, or just look at the boats passing from the locks. We chose the latter and paid to enter at the Miraflores Locks and we are very happy with our decision. Watching from the locks gives you the best vantage point – if you were in the tour boats we saw you would be pressed right against one of these ships and not be able to see much at all. Plus being at the Miraflores locks gives you a lot of flexibility to come and go as you please.
We ended up staying to watch two rounds of ships go through – the sheer amount of water and the size of the ships was incredible. It was really neat to be there; we actually skipped the imax movie to enjoy the ships real time.
It was our last night and we decided to hit up a highly rated Italian restaurant, Masa, for their gluten free pizza – only to learn you have to call ahead days in advance for them to prep the gluten free crust. Whoops. So be mindful of that, if you are going there for that reason. The food itself was decent, though maybe not the absolute best, and it’s right on the edge of Old Town so – do with that what you will.
Day 10: Saying Good-bye
The fact is, I just love Central America. I love the climate and the fact that there is so much to see and do always in a very condensed area. The people are always nice, and it’s so easy to see not only the big things, but also the lesser known. Panama was fascinating in how, at times, it felt like other Central American countries. But other times you could absolutely see and feel how the country has changed because of all the foreign influence from the Panama Canal.
I’m super pleased with itinerary Marjorie and I did. While we missed the entire Boquete region, we still saw some unforgettable areas all with our own flexibility. Santa Catalina, El Valle, and Panama City are all wildly different areas and experiences and I consider them all must-dos if you are traveling to Panama.
I’ve been very fortunate through all my years of travel to only have a minor hiccups and very little drama. It was bound to change someday! And, I do have to say, if I’m going to find myself suddenly solo on an island somewhere, I can’t complain about it happening in beautiful Greece.
My favorite part? Cats on Hydra
If someone near me ever says, ‘I wonder if we should go…”, I’m already looking at tickets. I love to join in. So even though Greece was never high on my bucket list, it was an easy “yes” when Zoe asked to join her for part of her month studying in Greece. Sign. Me. Up.
Day 1 through 3 – Athens
Activities
Golden hour at the Acropolis
Acropolis – You can’t go to Athens without a visit to the Acropolis. You’ll hear a lot of advice about getting the first slot of the day, however I highly recommend our strategy. I opted for the last ticket and it was *chef’s kiss*. Not only were we able to see the space as the crowds were starting to thin, but we were there during the absolutely magnificent golden hour. It was really special to be there as the sun set and night fell. You can get tickets from a lot of website but use the direct site!
National Archaeological Museum – I don’t typically hit up museums when I travel, but Zoe hadn’t seen this one yet but wanted/needed to for her research, so I was happy to attend. There’s a ton to see with some really impressive masks and sculptures. We spent an hour or two in the museum. I am thoroughly ignorant of anything ancient Greek – so even though I attempted to do a crash course on the history (Mythos by Stephen Fry was a solid intro!) – I know I missed a lot of the wow factor. But it was still a really well put together museum and Zoe was able to point out some really fun and interesting artifacts I would have overlooked.
Acropolis Museum – This was definitely a treat. The artifacts inside were so interesting but the building itself was too. Between the ruins on site and the view of the acropolis, the whole place was an experience. There was even seating both indoors and out. Zoe planned to sit and research/work at some point on her trip which felt like a great idea, so surrounded by reverence and history.
Eats
Lot51 – We went to this place when I was just an hour off the plane so I was thoroughly jetlagged. The coffee definitely revived me and it is located on a very cute little promenade, but maybe avoid the banana bread which had a very strange icing on it.
Liondi – This is near the Acropolis and in a pretty touristy area, but the food was great and the outdoor space nice. Don’t hesitate to hit up this as an option!
White Turtle Coffeehouse – Close to the National Archaeological Museum and a solid option for a caffeine hit.
The Black Salami Microbakery – Located near-ish to the National Archaeological museum. Very neighborhood-y versus touristy. The food was good and lots of local vibes.
Mojo Club – a VERY cute coffee shop/bar my first Uber driver had mentioned (travel pro tip – always go where an Uber driver recommends). It was SUCH a find – absolutely secluded and beautiful, I was immediately in love. However the mosquitos were absolutely vicious. (This was a very common issue for us in Athens.) We did our best to endure but it made it impossible to concentrate on writing or reading, so we talked for a while until finally giving up. Would definitely try this place again though!
Mojo Club
Ateno Cook & Deli – This is located on the cutest little street full of restaurants. I would never have selected this place off Google even with all the positive reviews. But a Greek friend of mine knows the owner and told me to get their Greek salad. Who was I to argue? It was upscale and absolutely fantastic.
Stay
In Athens: I opted to stay near the Acropolis and I absolutely loved my airbnb. It was a gem and I adored every corner of that space. Located just off a very touristy and bustling street, it had the cutest entrance, the quirkiest furnishing (a couch in the kitchen!) with the perfect amount of comfort. Nothing had been updated for ages and I was IN LOVE with the kitchen and the bathroom. And don’t even get me started on the patio where you could see the acropolis. Though it was way too big for one person (I had been uncertain if Zoe would need/want to use the space so I tried to find spaces with two beds, just in case) I would 100% book it again even for just one. It was that darn cute.
My outdoor space! ❤
At the Port:Athenarium Portus Life & Style Hotel Piraeus was a great find near the port. I rolled in from Naxos very late. Given how little time I was there, it was more expensive than I needed, but that area around the port is a bit rough so I was glad I had a very secure and comfortable spot.
Spotting my ferry from the balcony at Athenarium
Near the Airport: Alekos. Great spot to stay if you are flying out early as the airport is not near downtown Athens. The space was nice and had a outdoor area- it was also very close to the beach and I grabbed a chair at Enalio for the afternoon. Perfect way to wrap up my time in Greece.
Enalio
Day 4through 7– Naxos
Travel (Taking the Ferry)
I may travel frequently, and yet I’ve never gotten the hang of air travel. I hate it with a fiery passion and will do just about anything to avoid taking a flight – especially one on a small plane. So even though the ferry to Naxos was six hours I decided it was the best course for me to ensure I was at least on the same land mass as Zoe for a couple more days to make the trip worth it.
Ferry view
I took an Uber to the port. I have to say – it was a struggle to figure out where to go. The port is very busy and the signs were definitely designed for people in cars, not on foot. Ferry Hopper was a very helpful app and did flag that my boat had, apparently, changed so I had to get a new ticket. It took me ages to find the right spot where they could give me a new ticket and direct me to the ship so definitely give yourself time.
Because I had read a lot about sea sickness on Greek ferries, I had played it as safe as I possibly could. I took the extra long ferry because it was the largest (and therefore smoothest) vessel. I also paid extra for the bougie business class. I’m still a bit on the fence if this was worth it. On the way to Naxos, it was quite nice – so many places to sit and it was very comfortable. The rest of the boat felt like chaos but this was quiet and beautiful. I didn’t get seasick at all so highly recommend you opt at minimum for the big ferry if that is a concern.
Business class
However – I was supremely jealous of the folks who had some open air space. I went outside a couple times but I didn’t want to leave my bags alone long. The way back was a different story – the business area was overrun with kids and felt very similar to the rest of the boat, so the upcharge really wasn’t worth it there.
My ferry rolled into Naxos late – 1am. I stayed at Hotel Palatia and the walk was doable, but a bit long at that time of night. And the last few blocks were definitely secluded. I didn’t feel unsafe but I was very exposed so if there were any shenanigans I would have been easy to pick off. That being said, unless you arrange a pick up, walking was the only option.
Eats
Zio – a nice little local spot for breakfast which had both good coffee and food.
Honey + Cinnamon – after a lot of wandering I stopped here for a Freddo Cappuccino to cool down. They have an absolutely beautiful outdoor space and I easily sat and enjoyed my book for a while.
Honey + Cinnamon patio
Waffle House – great spot for ice cream and water views.
To Elliniko – I ended up going here solo and they were so welcoming. Glad I did as it was so incredible. Easily one of the best meals I had on the whole trip. That plus a staff that didn’t mind chatting with me a bit and enjoying the patio space? Lovely.
To Elliniko
Avaton – for coffee, breakfast, and vibes. It did not disappoint, even if I was absolutely sweating by the time I walked up the incline. Still the food was fantastic and it was an easy place to chill.
Activities
Temple of Apollo – Great spot to walk to. I tried to get there early to beat the heat but didn’t quite achieve that goal. Still well worth making the walk for the views.
Beach Day – There are a lot of beach clubs to pick from but I went off the power of recommendation. The owner of Ateno Cook & Deli (remember, in Athens?) said Yazoo was the best, and I didn’t second guess. It’s a bit of a haul from Naxos Town. I thought I would be able to ride to the beach with Zoe, but that didn’t work out so instead I grabbed the public bus. While not very convenient from my hotel (it’s on the other side of the island) it was really easy to navigate once I asked the right questions.
You’ll want to reserve chairs ahead of time at Yazoo, even in the shoulder season. The price of the chair is a deposit on food/drinks and it’s easy to use it up if you spend the whole day there. Lots of options for coffee, alcoholic, and non alcoholic drinks, and plenty of food. All super tasty with great service. I ended up being solo here for the majority of the day but the staff didn’t make it awkward at all.
Beach day lounging
Olive Oil Farm Tour – My own experience on this tour went a bit sideways as we had booked for three people but I ultimately was stood up and had to go it alone. Yes, I was straight up ghosted by a long term friend. In Greece. On an island.
I’d say it was funny but honestly? Not really. Especially when I then had to take a very expensive taxi solo (almost 75 euro round trip). I will be eternally grateful to the one other random woman who also showed up for the tour because I likely would have melted into the ground if I had to do the entire tour alone with the nice olive farmer named Costas. When he learned I was on my own, he toured me around a couple extra spots on the island which was nice, if humiliating.
The experience included a really informative walking tour through the beautiful olive tree grove. Costas was a phenomenal guide with a lovely farm and was clearly so passionate about what he did. The other woman and I navigated the awkwardness of being served a huge lunch for just the two of us since he had cooked for six (she also, ironically, had two friends bow out of the experience). He was unbelievably kind about it all and walked us through all the traditional items and paired everything with infused olive oils – it was incredible.
If you can get there easily/split the price with friends, this adventure is so worth it. Highly recommend this experience if you are on Naxos!
Stay
Hotel Palatia – really sweet boutique hotel with super kind staff! They didn’t mind at all that I was rolling in at 1am off the ferry. Loved my balcony space; absolutely perfect views of the nightly sunsets.
Day 7 through 10 – Hydra
Hydria golden hour
Activities
Hydra was, by far, my favorite spot in Greece. When I got there I was immediately hooked – not only because my airbnb was absolutely perfect but because the island is completely carless. I was smitten.
View from my airbnb balcony
I did absolutely nothing but explore on this island, which was by design. There isn’t much to do in Hydra except walk, shop, and eat. I’m not much of a shopper, but in a place like Hydra I could see the appeal. It’s still clearly a tourist destination but, unlike Naxos which felt very catered specifically to Americans, Hydra felt like a spot Europeans likely visited and shopped. Definitely a lot more real and unique products and not too busy at all.
Eats
The Lemon Trees – I did a ton of walking and this a really lovely spot near the port for coffee and Greek yogurts. I went twice during my stay.
Techne Go here for dinner, an absolute must. Incredible food and views.
Kamin – On my first morning in Hydra I took a very long walk way past the typical tourist spots and it was really lovely to see. I circled around to Kamin where I made a friend with a cat and whiled away my morning over coffee and yogurt.
Lefteraki’s – If you walk east along the ocean path, you’ll find this cute spot. It’s very well paved though super hot as there’s no shade. It’s a hike, but if you are on Hydra for more than just a day trip, it’s a nice additional part of the island and also where some beach clubs are if you want a beach day.
Lefteraki’s for lunch
Hydronetta – a beach bar known for it’s sunsets. I had to snag a table with an old lady who didn’t know English, but she didn’t seem to mind. It was a nice spot but quite busy so unless you are already there enjoying the beach, it’s likely hard to find a spot just for th sunset. Worth it, though, to try. Definitely gorgeous views.
View from Hydronetta
Stay
I stayed in an airbnb right on the port and it’s easily one of my favorite airbnbs of all time. It’s a small space so it definitely maxes at two people. Absolutely perfect as a solo traveler. Because you’re in the curve of the port you can’t really see any sunsets from your view but everything else about the view was perfection. I was feeling a bit bruised from Greece and my travel so far but getting to Hydra and feeling the peace of this balcony did a lot to fill my heart.
my airbnb!
Final Thoughts
All in all, I can absolutely see the appeal of Greece. It’s beautiful and between the exceptional food and cats everywhere, what’s not to like?
Athens gets a lot of hate but it was a lovely big city. A little spread out so plan accordingly but definitely worth time.
I didn’t know things were going to go sideways with my friend but, even if they hadn’t, Naxos would still have rated low on my list. It was beautiful, but the distance wasn’t worth it, in my opinion. The tourism was very catered to Americans and I have been to much better places closer to home.
I’m a big fan of Hydra, definitely worth a visit and it’s so easy from Athens.
All in all, looking back, I would have much rather explored mainland Greece more than spending so much time getting to an island. I think people miss a lot of the best parts that way and I’d absolutely go back to Greece if I could go north of Athens.
