I’ve been very fortunate through all my years of travel to only have a minor hiccups and very little drama. It was bound to change someday! And, I do have to say, if I’m going to find myself suddenly solo on an island somewhere, I can’t complain about it happening in beautiful Greece.
If someone near me ever says, ‘I wonder if we should go…”, I’m already looking at tickets. I love to join in. So even though Greece was never high on my bucket list, it was an easy “yes” when Zoe asked to join her for part of her month studying in Greece. Sign. Me. Up.
Day 1 through 3 – Athens
Activities
Acropolis – You can’t go to Athens without a visit to the Acropolis. You’ll hear a lot of advice about getting the first slot of the day, however I highly recommend our strategy. I opted for the last ticket and it was *chef’s kiss*. Not only were we able to see the space as the crowds were starting to thin, but we were there during the absolutely magnificent golden hour. It was really special to be there as the sun set and night fell. You can get tickets from a lot of website but use the direct site!
National Archaeological Museum – I don’t typically hit up museums when I travel, but Zoe hadn’t seen this one yet but wanted/needed to for her research, so I was happy to attend. There’s a ton to see with some really impressive masks and sculptures. We spent an hour or two in the museum. I am thoroughly ignorant of anything ancient Greek – so even though I attempted to do a crash course on the history (Mythos by Stephen Fry was a solid intro!) – I know I missed a lot of the wow factor. But it was still a really well put together museum and Zoe was able to point out some really fun and interesting artifacts I would have overlooked.
Acropolis Museum – This was definitely a treat. The artifacts inside were so interesting but the building itself was too. Between the ruins on site and the view of the acropolis, the whole place was an experience. There was even seating both indoors and out. Zoe planned to sit and research/work at some point on her trip which felt like a great idea, so surrounded by reverence and history.
Eats
Lot51 – We went to this place when I was just an hour off the plane so I was thoroughly jetlagged. The coffee definitely revived me and it is located on a very cute little promenade, but maybe avoid the banana bread which had a very strange icing on it.
Liondi – This is near the Acropolis and in a pretty touristy area, but the food was great and the outdoor space nice. Don’t hesitate to hit up this as an option!
Little Tree Books and Coffee – Super cute bookish spot with tasty drinks. Great outdoor seating!
White Turtle Coffeehouse – Close to the National Archaeological Museum and a solid option for a caffeine hit.
The Black Salami Microbakery – Located near-ish to the National Archaeological museum. Very neighborhood-y versus touristy. The food was good and lots of local vibes.
Mojo Club – a VERY cute coffee shop/bar my first Uber driver had mentioned (travel pro tip – always go where an Uber driver recommends). It was SUCH a find – absolutely secluded and beautiful, I was immediately in love. However the mosquitos were absolutely vicious. (This was a very common issue for us in Athens.) We did our best to endure but it made it impossible to concentrate on writing or reading, so we talked for a while until finally giving up. Would definitely try this place again though!
Ateno Cook & Deli – This is located on the cutest little street full of restaurants. I would never have selected this place off Google even with all the positive reviews. But a Greek friend of mine knows the owner and told me to get their Greek salad. Who was I to argue? It was upscale and absolutely fantastic.
Stay
In Athens: I opted to stay near the Acropolis and I absolutely loved my airbnb. It was a gem and I adored every corner of that space. Located just off a very touristy and bustling street, it had the cutest entrance, the quirkiest furnishing (a couch in the kitchen!) with the perfect amount of comfort. Nothing had been updated for ages and I was IN LOVE with the kitchen and the bathroom. And don’t even get me started on the patio where you could see the acropolis. Though it was way too big for one person (I had been uncertain if Zoe would need/want to use the space so I tried to find spaces with two beds, just in case) I would 100% book it again even for just one. It was that darn cute.
At the Port: Athenarium Portus Life & Style Hotel Piraeus was a great find near the port. I rolled in from Naxos very late. Given how little time I was there, it was more expensive than I needed, but that area around the port is a bit rough so I was glad I had a very secure and comfortable spot.
Near the Airport: Alekos. Great spot to stay if you are flying out early as the airport is not near downtown Athens. The space was nice and had a outdoor area- it was also very close to the beach and I grabbed a chair at Enalio for the afternoon. Perfect way to wrap up my time in Greece.
Day 4 through 7– Naxos
Travel (Taking the Ferry)
I may travel frequently, and yet I’ve never gotten the hang of air travel. I hate it with a fiery passion and will do just about anything to avoid taking a flight – especially one on a small plane. So even though the ferry to Naxos was six hours I decided it was the best course for me to ensure I was at least on the same land mass as Zoe for a couple more days to make the trip worth it.
I took an Uber to the port. I have to say – it was a struggle to figure out where to go. The port is very busy and the signs were definitely designed for people in cars, not on foot. Ferry Hopper was a very helpful app and did flag that my boat had, apparently, changed so I had to get a new ticket. It took me ages to find the right spot where they could give me a new ticket and direct me to the ship so definitely give yourself time.
Because I had read a lot about sea sickness on Greek ferries, I had played it as safe as I possibly could. I took the extra long ferry because it was the largest (and therefore smoothest) vessel. I also paid extra for the bougie business class. I’m still a bit on the fence if this was worth it. On the way to Naxos, it was quite nice – so many places to sit and it was very comfortable. The rest of the boat felt like chaos but this was quiet and beautiful. I didn’t get seasick at all so highly recommend you opt at minimum for the big ferry if that is a concern.
However – I was supremely jealous of the folks who had some open air space. I went outside a couple times but I didn’t want to leave my bags alone long. The way back was a different story – the business area was overrun with kids and felt very similar to the rest of the boat, so the upcharge really wasn’t worth it there.
My ferry rolled into Naxos late – 1am. I stayed at Hotel Palatia and the walk was doable, but a bit long at that time of night. And the last few blocks were definitely secluded. I didn’t feel unsafe but I was very exposed so if there were any shenanigans I would have been easy to pick off. That being said, unless you arrange a pick up, walking was the only option.
Eats
Zio – a nice little local spot for breakfast which had both good coffee and food.
Honey + Cinnamon – after a lot of wandering I stopped here for a Freddo Cappuccino to cool down. They have an absolutely beautiful outdoor space and I easily sat and enjoyed my book for a while.
Waffle House – great spot for ice cream and water views.
To Elliniko – I ended up going here solo and they were so welcoming. Glad I did as it was so incredible. Easily one of the best meals I had on the whole trip. That plus a staff that didn’t mind chatting with me a bit and enjoying the patio space? Lovely.
Avaton – for coffee, breakfast, and vibes. It did not disappoint, even if I was absolutely sweating by the time I walked up the incline. Still the food was fantastic and it was an easy place to chill.
Activities
Temple of Apollo – Great spot to walk to. I tried to get there early to beat the heat but didn’t quite achieve that goal. Still well worth making the walk for the views.
Beach Day – There are a lot of beach clubs to pick from but I went off the power of recommendation. The owner of Ateno Cook & Deli (remember, in Athens?) said Yazoo was the best, and I didn’t second guess. It’s a bit of a haul from Naxos Town. I thought I would be able to ride to the beach with Zoe, but that didn’t work out so instead I grabbed the public bus. While not very convenient from my hotel (it’s on the other side of the island) it was really easy to navigate once I asked the right questions.
You’ll want to reserve chairs ahead of time at Yazoo, even in the shoulder season. The price of the chair is a deposit on food/drinks and it’s easy to use it up if you spend the whole day there. Lots of options for coffee, alcoholic, and non alcoholic drinks, and plenty of food. All super tasty with great service. I ended up being solo here for the majority of the day but the staff didn’t make it awkward at all.
Olive Oil Farm Tour – My own experience on this tour went a bit sideways as we had booked for three people but I ultimately was stood up and had to go it alone. Yes, I was straight up ghosted by a long term friend. In Greece. On an island.
I’d say it was funny but honestly? Not really. Especially when I then had to take a very expensive taxi solo (almost 75 euro round trip). I will be eternally grateful to the one other random woman who also showed up for the tour because I likely would have melted into the ground if I had to do the entire tour alone with the nice olive farmer named Costas. When he learned I was on my own, he toured me around a couple extra spots on the island which was nice, if humiliating.
The experience included a really informative walking tour through the beautiful olive tree grove. Costas was a phenomenal guide with a lovely farm and was clearly so passionate about what he did. The other woman and I navigated the awkwardness of being served a huge lunch for just the two of us since he had cooked for six (she also, ironically, had two friends bow out of the experience). He was unbelievably kind about it all and walked us through all the traditional items and paired everything with infused olive oils – it was incredible.
If you can get there easily/split the price with friends, this adventure is so worth it. Highly recommend this experience if you are on Naxos!
Stay
Hotel Palatia – really sweet boutique hotel with super kind staff! They didn’t mind at all that I was rolling in at 1am off the ferry. Loved my balcony space; absolutely perfect views of the nightly sunsets.
Day 7 through 10 – Hydra
Activities
Hydra was, by far, my favorite spot in Greece. When I got there I was immediately hooked – not only because my airbnb was absolutely perfect but because the island is completely carless. I was smitten.
I did absolutely nothing but explore on this island, which was by design. There isn’t much to do in Hydra except walk, shop, and eat. I’m not much of a shopper, but in a place like Hydra I could see the appeal. It’s still clearly a tourist destination but, unlike Naxos which felt very catered specifically to Americans, Hydra felt like a spot Europeans likely visited and shopped. Definitely a lot more real and unique products and not too busy at all.
Eats
The Lemon Trees – I did a ton of walking and this a really lovely spot near the port for coffee and Greek yogurts. I went twice during my stay.
Techne Go here for dinner, an absolute must. Incredible food and views.
Kamin – On my first morning in Hydra I took a very long walk way past the typical tourist spots and it was really lovely to see. I circled around to Kamin where I made a friend with a cat and whiled away my morning over coffee and yogurt.
The Cool Mule – great spot for ice cream.
Lefteraki’s – If you walk east along the ocean path, you’ll find this cute spot. It’s very well paved though super hot as there’s no shade. It’s a hike, but if you are on Hydra for more than just a day trip, it’s a nice additional part of the island and also where some beach clubs are if you want a beach day.
Hydronetta – a beach bar known for it’s sunsets. I had to snag a table with an old lady who didn’t know English, but she didn’t seem to mind. It was a nice spot but quite busy so unless you are already there enjoying the beach, it’s likely hard to find a spot just for th sunset. Worth it, though, to try. Definitely gorgeous views.
Stay
I stayed in an airbnb right on the port and it’s easily one of my favorite airbnbs of all time. It’s a small space so it definitely maxes at two people. Absolutely perfect as a solo traveler. Because you’re in the curve of the port you can’t really see any sunsets from your view but everything else about the view was perfection. I was feeling a bit bruised from Greece and my travel so far but getting to Hydra and feeling the peace of this balcony did a lot to fill my heart.
Final Thoughts
All in all, I can absolutely see the appeal of Greece. It’s beautiful and between the exceptional food and cats everywhere, what’s not to like?
Athens gets a lot of hate but it was a lovely big city. A little spread out so plan accordingly but definitely worth time.
I didn’t know things were going to go sideways with my friend but, even if they hadn’t, Naxos would still have rated low on my list. It was beautiful, but the distance wasn’t worth it, in my opinion. The tourism was very catered to Americans and I have been to much better places closer to home.
I’m a big fan of Hydra, definitely worth a visit and it’s so easy from Athens.
All in all, looking back, I would have much rather explored mainland Greece more than spending so much time getting to an island. I think people miss a lot of the best parts that way and I’d absolutely go back to Greece if I could go north of Athens.
But the food and cats? Perfection.
The Roaming Reader 