Posts Tagged With: work from anywhere

One Week Digital Nomad Itinerary: Southwest Spain (2025)

I’ve said it before – many people dream of being a true Digital Nomad: working from beaches, taking a meeting, and relaxing poolside while writing up a email.

But the reality is there are few jobs that allow for true flexibility post pandemic. Add in those of us who have other things that keep us rooted (ie: kids, spouses) and the life of a digital nomad feels unattainable.

Sevilla

And – that’s true. However, I have been using my company’s “work from anywhere” policy to it’s full advantage. We are allowed up to four weeks where our in-office policy is lifted. Most people use it to avoid December in the office. I did that – but decided to do it full out in Spain. For me, the key is to use Europe’s time zone to my advantage. I can explore by day, and work in the evening (keeping my normal CST hours) and I go for just one week.

It’s a way to get a taste of digital nomad life – while also only being away from home, kids, and responsibilities for a week. For me, it was a win/win. I chose Italy for my first foray into this plan and this time I returned for a third visit to Spain.

Sevilla at night

Day 1: Travel and Work

I started my travel on a Monday night, flying overnight to Madrid so I could land around 9am. I like to do as much of my travel as I can on the first day since we know that even if you get nice seats, an overnight flight will always suck our energy. I prefer to be out of it on a train instead of trying to explore a city so I kept right on going from Madrid to Sevilla.

Trains at Atocha

It’s an easy transition but there are logistics involved (plane to bus to train) but I did make it in time check in at the Catalonia Santa Justa. This was a good spot as it was very close to the train station and my room had this view.

Cathedral view while working

I’d seen Sevilla before so I knew exactly where I wanted to go when I had a break in my day around 10pm. Spain always comes alive at night and I felt at ease walking the short distance to the Setas that night to see the lights.

It had been raining but was mild and I took a minute to breath before heading back for a few more emails and then bed.

Setas

Day 2: Seville and travel to Jerez de la Frontera

Since I’d studied/lived in Spain twice before I had already seen a good portion of the country. I knew I wanted to spend my time somewhere new so I decided to stay in a lesser talked about town of Jerez de la Frontera. On the southwest side of the country, it’s right near Cadiz and is small but still easy to get around to other places.

The chia not being soaked at Chia was admittedly disappointing

I took the morning to grab breakfast at Chia and wander Sevilla, mainly spending my time revisiting old haunts (I had stayed there and studied Spanish for two weeks back in 2012). It was fun to wander around and see all the decorations they had up for Christmas as well, since I was there in early December.

By midday though I was back to get my bags and on the train down to Jerez. Upon arrival, I was immediately thrown into Spanish culture as I walked from the train through town to the main pedestrian street at 2pm because it was a total ghost town.

Jerez takes the siesta seriously which is something I neglected to think about when it came to my working schedule, but more on that later. I did stop and grab a few snacks for dinner and got to work.

view from my apartment

I stayed in an apartment right on the main pedestrian walk and I really liked this spot. Perfectly located.

Day 3: Alcazar and Exploring Jerez de la Frontera

I decided to start off my day at the Alcazar in Jerez de la Frontera since there was a risk of rain later. I hadn’t originally planned to visit, since the one in Sevilla was certainly more impressive, but after looking more into it I saw it was quite impressive and I’m glad I took the time.

Alcazar

I did a lot of walking and exploring Jerez – grabbing a tapas lunch at Tabanco San Pedro, which was delightful.. The city is not touristy at all, which was what I hoped to find, though it did make the hope for shopping for souvenirs a little difficult. While there were a few cute areas, there wasn’t a lot by way of small boutiques. It’s a much more practical sort of place that really comes alive at night.

Tapas lunch

This entire region is knowing for its sherry so I decided to fit in a last minute tour at Bodegas Lustau. Easily one of the things I hate the most about traveling alone is booking a tour only to find that I’m the only one on it and unfortunately this happened for this tour.

Bodegas

The woman still did a great job but I had to be far more engaged than I usually am and, since I don’t usually check a bag, I had to awkwardly slink away at the end with no gift shop purchases. That being said, it was a lovely tour and space and I do recommend the experience. They also distribute to the United States which was fun to then find what I had tried when I got back home.

Back to the apartment for work and eventually popped out for “dinner” of gelato at Margarita La Fresca. This gelato was bomb and close to my apartment. It became my go-to work break item.

Day 4: Clocks, Horses, and Constitutions

Early to rise for some breakfast and wandering in a different direction in Jerez. I found myself near a clock museum, the Museo Palacio del Tiempo, and decided to wander in. In a surprise to no one, I was there not long after opening and was the only patron. It quickly got awkward as there was apparently a power issue and there were no light in the space.

The woman said I could come back later but I knew that wouldn’t be an option with my schedule. I refused to let her refund me (she seemed to bereft) so she offered to let me wander the space in the low light until the electricity was fixed. It was actually a really cool experience that way and I did explore long enough for the lights to come back and in all their glory.

This is honestly one of my favorite museums ever. Not only having it entirely private, but it was so whimsical to hear all the clocks chiming each quarter of an hour. Highly recommend popping in.

One of the biggest draws to Jerez de la Frontera is the horse school, the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. It’s considered a must see with the dancing horses and while the crowds were quite low when I went (which I attribute to the time of the year) I did find the show really enjoyable. There’s a (very) small museum that wasn’t really worth the extra payment, imo, but seeing the horses do their thing at this classic establishment really did feel special.

sneaky photo since no filming is alowed

This was Friday, Dec 6th and this started a full weekend of celebration in Jerez that I had been completely ignorant of. This is their Día de la Constitución, and it felt like Independence Day and New Years Day in the way their festivities popped off. The city was absolutely buzzing so I took my “lunch break” at 10 and went down to the nearby, and iconic, Gato Azul.

Gato Azul

Google reviews aren’t the best but honestly the tapas were great, the sherry divine, and the people watching an incredible ten out of ten.

Absolutely vibing with my potato/tuna tapas and sherry

Day 5: Day Trip to Puerto de Santa Maria

I originally had thought I would go to Arcos on this Saturday day trip but the bus schedule was a bit rough so I instead opted for a trip to the closer and highly regarded Puerto de Santa Maria. My first stop was at La Cabana for breakfast. They were packed but I got a spot outside since it was a bit chilly and enjoyed a coffee.

Puerto de Santa Maria – view at La Cabana

This is a lovely little town to wander through. Still not heavily touristed but I did find my way to an excellent churros con chocolate at La Ponderosa. I had yet to stop for churros on this trip to Spain which was honestly, a travesty. This did make up for it.

10/10 and filled with families

The walk down to the water was not a short one, but it was a beautiful day, even if the beach itself wasn’t one that felt good for strolling on. I kept to the sidewalks (as did pretty much everyone else).

Coming back to Jerez, I ran into an absolute wall of Spaniards completely balling out for their holiday. I literally had no idea it was such a huge deal and, on top of that, Jerez was apparently the place for the celebrations. My entire street was completely shut down and I had to detour to get to my apartment since the pedestrian walk was covered in a massive stage.

The crowds!

It looked like a ton of fun and I did end up going back out to wander the streets, not only to feel the vibe, but also because I was determined to do one more sherry tasting, this time at Fundador. This is a very well known brand but I had been unaware they made one called “Harvey” and it felt obligatory to participate.

I wasn’t sure if they would be running tours, given the holiday, but it ended up being the opposite as there was a massive tour happening but I was the only English speaker. I had, of course, been practicing my Spanish up until that point but the one hour tour entirely in Spanish, followed by a group tasting where the table seemed absolutely tickled that they had a solo-traveler from Chicago, definitely made me dredge up some old language skills.

I ultimately walked back through the streets, realizing my only chance for food would be one of the street carts that came out of nowhere as all the restaurants were closed and bars that served tapas were packed.

Concert in front of the Cathedral

I ultimately stopped at a cart for a cone of fries but I had to draw the line at the palest hot dogs I’ve ever seen. There are some foods you just don’t buy outside your home country and for me, that’s a hot dog. It was there that I witnessed a group purchase the hot dogs and proceed to put mayo on them. It was an absolute travesty.

Day 6: Cadiz

This was taken still quite early in the night

Despite how late the partying went the night before, when I went down early to catch a train to Cadiz, the streets were absolutely immaculate. I literally have no idea how they could have possibly been cleaned, but they were. Magicians, I swear.

Cadiz

When I arrived in Cadiz I went to a free walking tour which are always a nice way to get a quick lay of the land of the city. This one was, unfortunately, a little boring as it was very ingrained it telling us the full history of the city (and like – there are roman walls. There is a lot of history). I also managed to arrive at the same time as a cruise ship which is never ideal.

Still, it was lovely to walk through all the streets of Cadiz. Much more touristy with lots of shopping, restaurants, and displays. Given the time of the year, there was a fun Christmas market set up in front of the cathedral.

I managed to do just about all my souvenir shopping in Cadiz. This city gives much more Andalucian vibes and the weather was gorgeous. It was a lot of fun to see everyone out with their families, walking along the waterfront or sitting out at cafes.

My train to Jerez was late and I immediately knew by the rest of the patrons heading in that I was due for another massive party in Jerez, and I was right. Everything was shut down again so I grabbed some mini donuts from a pop up and took them home to people watch on my last night in Jerez.

Day 7: Back to Madrid

Monday again so I needed to start early to make sure I could get everything done before my work day. I hopped the early train back to Madrid and checked in at Sleep’n Atocha. Great location to the train, which I needed, but definitely not ideal for working as this was the smallest room ever.

Not a bad office

They did have a rooftop so I was able to work from there instead of the cramped room, but it was definitely also a hang out spot so it was a bit awkward as I worked late into the evening. Still fun, though.

Puerto del Sol

Earlier when I first arrived in Madrid, I dropped my bags and then wandered Madrid. Like Sevilla, I had been the Madrid a number of times before. The streets were absolutely packed for the holiday and, I assume, Christmas shopping. It was fun to navigate the crowds as I walked closer and closer to Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol. I wanted to see what kind of decorations they had and I wasn’t disappointed – especially since there was a huge market up in the plaza.

Plaza Mayor

Ended up getting my last dinner at Oven Mozzarella which was a little silly but just around the corner and everywhere else (including 100 Montaditos which was going to be nostalgic) was absolutely packed. It ended up being quite good though and I did a quick little walk around Retiro to see some lights before heading back to work.

Lights around Retiro

Day 8: Travel Home

So – all in all – I managed to do all of this travel and still only took one out of office day (Tuesday) to fly back. This was my second time doing this work from anywhere cadence and I’m absolutely hooked. As a solo traveler, coming back for the evening around 3pm really isn’t much of a hardship as dinners and activities in the evening solo are often way harder to do – and are a bit more awkward. It’s easy to get up early, see everything, and be back in time for meetings.

Puerto de Santa Maria

I will admit that, while Spain will always hold a special spot in my heart, I don’t necessarily recommend it for this kind of travel. Perhaps it would work if you stayed in bigger cities, or, even better, the north of Spain where siesta culture doesn’t have quite as much of a stranglehold. I deeply underestimated how difficult it would be to get a robust lunch between 1-3pm which is usually what I do so I can just work through the evening and not have to worry about popping out to get dinner. That, coupled with the festivities, and I do feel like my food game was off this trip as I had to opt for convenience multiple times.

Still – Jerez and this Cadiz region was a whole vibe and felt very European. I only saw a couple of American tourists the whole time I was there and really enjoyed watching the Spaniards celebrate.

Sevilla

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One Week Digital Nomad Itinerary: Italy – Naples and Sorrento (2025)

Many people dream of being a true Digital Nomad: working from beaches, taking a meeting, and relaxing poolside while writing up a email.

But the reality is there are few jobs that allow for true flexibility post pandemic. Add in those of us who have other things that keep us rooted (ie: kids, spouses) and the life of a digital nomad feels unattainable.

And – that’s true. However, this year I experimented with my company’s “work from anywhere” policy which allows up to four weeks where our in-office policy is lifted. Most people use it to avoid December. But I decided to try something a little different. I did two separete weeks solo traveling Europe – exploring by day, and working in the evening (keeping my normal CST hours).

Massa Lubrense from the water

It’s a way to get a taste of digital nomad life – while also only being away from home, kids, and responsibilities for a week. For me, it was a win/win. I chose Italy for my first foray into this plan and it worked out spledidly.

Day 1: Arrival

One of my biggest travel tips is to do as much distance as possible on the first day. No matter how “nice” the plane ride is, I always find it draining and the first day tends to be wilted. So, just keep going and get as far along as possible.

I took a late flight out on a Friday so I didn’t have to take a vacation day and arrived about midday on Saturday to Naples. I immediately grabbed the bus to Sorrento. Though I’m usually a train girly, I highly recommend this strategy. The bus was easy and straight forward.

Absolute perfect office set up

Because I knew I was going to be spending the majority of my evenings working, I opted for a really comfortable airbnb in a smaller town. My goal was to get that lived-in feel and not feel pressured to see every nook and cranny of a larger city in my limited time.

I chose The Lookout of Pipiano which is in Massa Lubrense, a town west of Sorrento. It was a dream spot with an exceptional host, Caterina, who helped me book outings. She also arranged to pick me up in Sorrento.

I’m a huge fan of this airbnb and little town and would highly recommend it if you are coming to this very touristy Amalfi coast are of Italy. This town still feels local and quiet. While I liked Sorrento as well, if you are looking for beauty, quiety, and vibes while still having excellent access, this town, and particularly this airbnb, is a gem.

Always a sucker for an outdoor space

Once I was settled in the airbnb, I took the 5 minute walk town to the port and went to Angelo’s for dinner. This restaurant became my hangout for the week. The food was the best I had all trip, the view of the dock and sunset was to die for, and the staff was so sweet to me. It’s easily the thing I miss the most from my whole trip.

Beautiful view from Angelo’s

Day 2: Amalfi Coast Boat Tour

Being a Sunday, I made sure to do one of the more full-day activities I wanted to do. Caterina had provided a whole list of options when I booked the airbnb and I eagerly took her up on it. This is key because while there were very similar tours listed on places like GetYourGuide (which I do love, btw), having Caterina arrange meant that I was able to get picked up at the local Massa Lubrense dock and didn’t need to get a ride or 40 minute bus into Sorrento.

Amalfi from the sea

The biggest decision had been to do either Capri or a boat ride down the Amalfi Coast- it was tough but I opted for the coast and took a tour very similar to this one – where we stopped at Amalfi and Positano and I really enjoyed it.

The boat left the dock at 9am. It took a good hour or so to go down the coast. It was actually choppier than I expected, given how close we were to the shore, but nothing my nausea pills/patches couldn’t handle. We stopped at Amalfi first and, while beautiful, it wasn’t my overall vibe.

Cathedral in Amalfi

With one long main road it’s absolutley packed with tourists and tourist catered stores. Lots of fun knick-knacks to shop for, but towns like that always make me a bit sad – it’s lost so much of it’s original charm.

That being said, I did locate a pizza place, Pizzeria Donna Stella, that was tucked away in a courtyard with lemon trees that was very cute. For me the pizza was only okay, but it was worth it for the vibes and plenty of seating. At the end of the tourist street I took a break – it was so hot – and grabbed a cappuchino and lemon cake that was exceptional at Bar Della Valle.

Courtyard at Pizzeria Donna

Then it was back to the boat and further down the coast to Positano. I liked the town of Positano much more, as a lot of the space to explore is more spread out and built steeply into the cliffside. It reminded me of the towns on Lake Atitlan in Guatemala.

Absolutely beautiful but also brutal to explore. I was sweating profusely and fighting for my life to climb to places that looked open on Google maps only to find they weren’t (I blame that it was Sunday).

Positano

Still – the views were great and I did soothe myself with gelato from the appropriatley named Yummy and later a limoncello spritzer from Sole where they had a nice patio for people watching.

All in all, the times in town were decent especially if you are like me and quickly get overwhelmed by tourists and touristy things. The boat and sunshine of the ride was lovely. Definitely a day trip worth taking in the area.

Day 3: Exploring Sorrento

Monday morning rolled around. The whole plan was to spend the day exploring and then work Chicago time in the evening. When it’s 3pm in Italy, it’s 8am in Chicago. I decided I would do some of my own exploration on this first working day. I walked up the steep but simple path to the main town of Massa Lubrense, grabbed a coffee at Bar Dolcevi, and easily caught the bus into Sorrento.

breakfast as Bar Dolcevi

I had hoped to do a walking tour but apparently I was the only one who signed up so the tour ended up being cancelled. So instead I just wandered up and down the main streets of Sorrento. While I didn’t learn much, it was actually nice. There are a couple main streets with lots of shops and food.

Sorrento street

It’s also nice to walk all the way to the cliffside to look out over the water and the unique beach club where you can actually take an elevator down to the water (which I did not do). Sorrento was really pretty to me and, if I needed to come back but be in a larger area, it’s for sure where I would stay.

Sorrento beach clubs below

I did hit a snafu on my return bus. I completely missed my stop for home. I hadn’t realized that, even though I was on the right numbered line, they had different routes and the road that led to my airbnb was completely skipped.

It ended up being pretty funny. I was the only person on the bus and took a very scenic ride all around the peninsula and all the way down to Marina del Cantone.

Bus windows don’t make for good photo ops

The roads were steep and narrow and it was like being on an amusement park ride. The bus driver kept looking in the mirror and was clearly concerned. But, with no real language in common, I just shrugged, said I was fine, and kept riding until we came to a larger town where I felt certain I’d be able to find my way back.

That ended up being Sant Agata sui Due Golfi. After identifying when the next bus should be, I made the most of the stop and grabbed lunch at Racy which had a lovely lemon pasta special. The town looked cute but by then it was just after 2 and I had to get back for work. So it was back on the bus and it took me cleanly to Massa Lubrense. I was home about ten minutes before my first work meeting.

Day 4: Lemon Farm

Working until midnight Italy time (5pm Chicago time) and then getting up early enough the next day is a bit rough but doable for just a week. On Tuesday I reserved a day trip to a local lemon farm, La Masseria. I booked mine through Caterina so they picked me up in Massa Lubrense but this tour is almost certainly the same thing.

I really enjoyed this experience. It’s family run, 4th generation, and a beautiful space. They walk you through the vibrant lemon trees, offer photo ops, and unique information. I learned that that Sorrento lemon trees can’t be grown from seeds, but are instead spliced. It was the perfect amount of information with also some other delightful farm details (they also have olive trees, some animals, etc) and tastings. They even did a full, sit down lunch which was tasty and just generally really fun.

It’s simultaneously a well-run operation while also being very small and local. Highly recommend this experience if you are staying in the area. And it ended in the early afternoon which was plenty of time for me to get back to the airbnb and set up for work.

Day 5: Travel Day

water views in Naples

Wednesday morning I grabbed the bus early into Sorrento, checking out of the delightful airbnb. It was going to be a travel day to Naples where I planned to stay and work for the remainder of the trip to be well positioned for the airport.

The bus outside my airbnb took me up the hill where I tranferred to the bus to Sorrento. There I opted for trying the train to Naples. I had heard mixed reviews on the train and I understand why – for the distance to Naples, it felt more like a subway style train than a regional one. But it was easy and I was able to get into Naples without confusion.

Spanish Quarter

I opted for an airbnb in the old part of the city, what they call the Spanish Quarter. It’s aptly named, it very much reminded me of the Born neighborhood in Barcelona. I stayed here, and thought it was a great spot. It’s fairly bare bones but it’s in a great location, the owner was super kind, and I’m a sucker for a balcony.

Once I dropped my bags I took to the streets for some general exploration. This tends to be a polarizing city and I unfortunately am siding with the haters. Naples is one of the few places I’ve traveled that I truly disliked. Some people love it and, to each their own, but I was not a fan. The energy reminded me of a low-budget tourist experience. Tourists walked around exhausted and cranky, like 5pm at Disney World. Meanwhile the locals seemed irritated by everyone, tourists and neighbors alike.

hectic yet iconic Naples shopping center

Both the restaurants I went to on this day for lunch and dinner, though rated highly, were very mid experiences so I won’t be listing them. Once I was back to start working, though, I did enjoy being able to sit above the Spanish-style streets in my airbnb, emailing and listening to the bustle below.

Another office I can’t complain about

Day 6: Pompeii

The main reason why I came to this part of the world was to see Pompeii and my tour day was finally here! From my airbnb I took the subway back toward the main train terminal and walked a number of very chaotic streets to find the pick up location.

I booked the tour through GetMyGuide. While this was totally fine, I would personally recommend finding something else. Our guide on-site in Pompeii was quite lovely but the pick up experience, van, and overall care put into the experience was lacking. Honestly, though, it very much matched the vibe I got all through Naples.

insane preservation

But back to Pompeii – what a special place to see. The guide took us through a small portion. It’s huge, so there are a variety of lengths of tours you can get through GetYourGuide or others – but I kept it fairly short since it was a work day. We still saw a lot and received plenty of really interesting details. It’s definitely worth a visit.

Vesuvius chilling back there like he didn’t do nothing

After Pompeii I had time before work to do a bit more exploration of Naples. I was determined to find a neighborhood I liked, but failed. I took the very old funicular up to the castle and wandered that less touristy area but didn’t see anything differently. I also had a very lackluster pasta experience there as well.

From the castle viewpoint

Thankfully, the pizza I had when I was able to sneak away from work for dinner was worthy so if you are in the Spanish Quarter of Naples, Pizzeria Laezza is a solid stop. It’s also fun because you sit in the narrow road with people and scooters zipping by. It was a very Naples experience (in a good way!)

The most Naples picture ever

Day 7: Travel Home

Friday morning, I did walk through the Spanish quarter in the morning to find a coffee and chill with my book. It ended up being awkward as it was immediately apparently I had taken some old Italian man’s usual spot. He was in luck, though, as I didn’t linger. It was back to the airbnb to pack, check out, and head to the airport.

“graffiti” in Massa Lubrense

All in all, I really loved this mini experiment and was one I quickly realized I would be repeating (stay tuned for my post on the next time I did this, in Spain). While working in the evening really messed with my sleeping habits, it was a really great balance for me. I didn’t have the work stress that inevitably comes when taking time off, but I still got to see and do amazing things.

Views in Sorrento

Doing it solo allowed for a ton of personal flexibility and I never felt guilty dragging a travel buddy back early, nor did I have FOMO about needing to be back in the room while they would still be exploring.

And while Naples was not a place I would ever intentionally go back to myself, I do think this was a great area to do a quick working week – I feel like I was able to see a lot without feeling like I missed out on anything either.

Positano
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Puerto Rico – San Juan and Beyond (Jan 2024)

When we found out our kids would be out of school for two full weeks this year between Christmas and New Year, we knew we had to get out of Chicago. Travel this time of the year is expensive, especially to somewhere warm, but direct flights to Puerto Rico were available and before we knew it, we were landing in San Juan.

Day 1 – Travel to San Juan

We landed late in San Juan so we just took an Uber to our hotel, Casablanca. It was SO cute though we did have a bit of a snafu when we learned the room we booked didn’t have a single window (yikes). I was immediately claustrophobic. They were able to find us another room that at least had an interior window into the atrium – still not ideal but at 8pm we decided to deal with it for the two nights we were there (attempting to move to a new hotel would have been an increase in cost and a loss in location).

Rooftop view from the hotel

All in all, the staff here was great, the location is fantastic, and the rooftop is incredible. So I do recommend this hotel but be mindful of what you are booking for the window needs!

We snagged at quick dinner at Pirilo Pizza Rustica which had some pretty impressive pizza and good beer. It was one of the few things open late in that area but worth stopping.

Nearby holiday decorations!

Day 2 – Explore San Juan

We had a lackluster breakfast at the hotel (you should definitely go somewhere else to eat if you stay there) and, like I always do, opted for a free walking tour of the city to get our bearings.

This is actually one of the least satisfying walking tours I’ve had. We covered a lot of ground but not necessarily with a lot of unique information. We did stop and get some ice cream at Señor Paleta which had been on my list and it did not disappoint.

Señor Paleta

Our guide struggled with time management and we ended later than expected – it also didn’t drop us off anywhere near where we started so it was a 15-20 minute walk back. I had meetings in the afternoon (this was working travel!) and we had to skip lunch so I could be back for them. Generally I’m a big fan of these tours to get kick off a city exploration but San Juan might be more conveniently done on your own.

I spent the afternoon working from our rooftop – no complaints there.

Office for the day

We then went to dinner at Cayo Caribe – we were able to sit on the sidewalk to people watch which was nice. We tried our first mofongo – I wouldn’t say this restaurant was incredible but like a lot of San Juan, it was decent enough.

The restaurant was really nicely placed to walk along the Paseo de La Princesa which was all dolled up for Christmas and New Years.

Paseo de la Princesa

I definitely recommend making this walk along the fortification. It was really neat to be so close to the walls – they were just radiating the heat of the day as we caught a really lovely sunset.

We stopped at Princesa Cocina Cultura just for a drink outside – it seems like typically this place does need a reservation and the waitress seemed a bit miffed that we were only grabbing a drink and people watching but we were early enough in the day that it worked out. The drinks were good and the food looked decent so could be another option.

Day 3 – San Juan -> Arecibo

We woke early to get a little more San Juan under our belts before heading out. We took the advice of our tour guide the day before and went to Cafeteria Mallorca for breakfast. Yikes. We found this overall very underwhelming through it was kind of nice to be at a very clearly local joint. And the mallorca was very light but also super greasy. I feel like there could be better ones out there. I also learned during my time in Puerto Rico that a lot of establishments, even nicer ones, will use disposable plates and utensils. It can make the place and food feel not as elevated trying to cut with a plastic knife on styrofoam.

Streets of San Juan

We walked up to visit Castillo San Cristobal. We were there early so I grabbed a latte at Bien Papayas right on the corner near the entrance. It was so cute but I was served one of the absolute worst lattes I’ve ever had. I literally had to throw it out. Hopefully it was a fluke because wow – it was bad.

Entrance to San Cristobal

The castle though, was a nice little spot to visit. Beautiful views and nice signs explaining it. Your ticket would also get you into El Morro which is typically the more recommended of the two – but we were on a timeline and I enjoyed San Cristobal. I’m sure if you have time for both it’s worth it but if, like us, you needed something closer to where you were staying then this on its own was great.

View from San Cristobal

A quick hike back to our hotel and we checked out then went to pick up our rental car. We took an Uber to the U-Save and became proud (?) temporary owners of Kia Rio. Our rental experience was like any other one I’ve ever had – a little lackluster but overall fine. No reason to avoid this place, especially if, like us, you aren’t picking up at the airport.

We then started our road trip to our airbnb in Arecibo. Along the way we stopped at Manati and the Playa Mar Chiquita. This was a fun little place to stretch out legs and get some great beach feels. If you wanted to, it would be super easy to spend more time here, there was a decent group of people enjoying the sand and sun.

Playa Mar Chiquita

It also had a great restaurant really close by, Costa Azul. I had some really great fish tacos and it was clearly a popular place for some great daily specials.

From there it was another 45 minutes before we rolled into Arecibo and absolutely fell all over ourselves for our perfect our airbnb was. Seriously top notch.

view from our airbnb

It’s the perfect beach view and is on the top floor so we had our own private rooftop patio with a jacuzzi and everything.

private rooftop of our airbnb

I was able to work from the rooftop with strong wifi that afternoon, it was a dream.

One of the best parts is that it is right in front of what is essentially a private beach! While a little difficult to navigate down the slope, it was so worth it for the incredible sand and privacy.

That evening we checked out a very cute cafe/bookstore called The Bookmark and then went to a delightful food truck spot, Ocean View, for dinner. We stopped by this place SO many times during our week in Arecibo – highly, highly recommend. We can’t say we ate at every truck during our time there but we sampled most of them and I really enjoyed it. It really does have an ocean view with lots of seating.

awesome nachos and views from the food truck!

Day 4Exploring Arecibo and around

We rose early to check out Bermudas where I was finally able to find a tasty latte. It was a lovely place with outside seating that was completely overrun by birds. It was both fun and somewhat terrifying?

latte at Bermudas

We drove to find the Cuevas de los Indios but ended up getting there too early. So we parked and took an unmarked path to the beach where we then… accidentally snuck into what was probably private property. Whoopsie.

Cuevas de los Indios

But it worked out because we were able to see what we are pretty sure was the back of the cave and didn’t need to pay the $10 to get in. Win/win though I won’t be telling you how we did it.

seemingly the back area of the caves

I worked in the afternoon from our outdoor rooftop – no complaints there. Our airbnb bumps up on a truly incredible beach that apparently no one goes on. There are no steps to go down – or there were but I assume Maria was the cause of their destruction – but with a fairly strong hazard to our health we were still able to get down and had a lovely mile-ish to walk all by ourselves. So lovely.

“our” beach

In the evening we headed to what ended up being out absolute favorite restaurant of the trip, Árbore Gastrobar. The service, the space, the food – all of it was excellent. I had a cocktail so glittery it covered my lips like a gloss.

so. much. glitter.

Day 5 – River Caving

This was our most active day yet. We headed out early (when don’t we, honestly) and checked out a River Caving Tour. Our guide for the Tanama river was Edgar and he was great. Really easy going and funny, he did such a great job leading out group which had a family with smaller kids and some not strong swimmers.

so epic

This tour was right up our alley. It starts off with a fairly steep decline before you do river walking and floating (some with a decent current!).

going through this ravine was a trip

You then get to a cave where there are kayaks to take us through it. Then more hiking before a suspension bridge. All in all, super fun, beautiful, and just the right amount of adventure and effort!

kayaking through the cave!

We were wiped so a meal at La Guira was necessary. The food was decent – not amazing but it landed pretty well after the good, long hike.

Day 6Coffee Farm and Exploring

New Years Eve and we decided to spend our day on a nice loop to explore more of the island. We headed back toward San Juan to visit Hacienda Muñoz. This is a popular coffee farm tour.

coffee tour, Hacienda Munoz

It wasn’t our first choice but we were limited by what was open for the holidays. Still it was a nice tour and we got to see the workings of the coffee farm even if the other tourists were a little annoying. Easy to order a cup of coffee though so that was lovely.

From there we drove the Pork Road which was a bit more harrowing than we anticipated. I was randomly navigating us and we were on some very narrow roads up some very high hills and our little Rio was struggling.

gotta love a one lane road

There were a lot of options but we decided we wanted to go to one of the most popular, Lechonera El Rancho Original.

enjoying his skin

Of course I say “we” but I did not come close to partaking. Crispy pig skin is all Eric’s jam, not mine. Top it off with how busy and loud it was and I was struggling, but it was an experience definitely worth checking out.

piggy roasting

Thought we would round out our road trip by checking out Ponce but it was a bust. Not sure if the town is still struggling but what we assumed was the downtown area was pretty desolate/abandoned. Restaurants google said were operating were clearly not and had not been for a while. We did find ice cream at King’s Cream but it was just about the only place open on the whole block. Maybe we just missed the good part of the city but it was a bit sad.

New Years Eve at this Airbnb was unbelievably epic. We were on the rooftop at midnight and I’ve never seen so many firework displays at once. It was truly special and sealed Arecibo in my heart.

still from the video of all the fireworks – just lovely

Day 7 – Rincón

Even for New Years Day we were up and at ’em, this time heading west to check out the surfing city of Rincon. Coffee on the route there was absolutely desolate though and I won’t subject you to the horror that was my styrofoam cup of “coffee”.

Still, we made it to Rincón and found Rincón Paddleboards. There we met up with our instructor, Justin, who took us out for some really nice paddling.

SUP

I adore SUP but found the waves were a little too big for my weak stomach and literally got sea sick on a paddleboard. I would have assumed this was impossible, but trust me, it’s not. I toughed it out until we went back in but opted out of the snorkeling portion of the adventure.

pre-sea sickness

Eric had a good time though while I chilled on the beach and watched the waves. Honestly, not a bad trade.

After the drive back we we enjoyed more of our airbnb and, of course, the delightful food trucks.

I wish I could say I tried every food truck, but we missed a couple

Day 8 – Back to Work

my office for the week

Officially the first working day of the year but I still was able to grab coffee at Bermudas again before starting the work day.

1:1 surf lesson

Eric found a local surf place where they did a day lesson with him which he said was fun. He had done surfing ages ago when he lived in San Francisco so he wasn’t a total amateur. It was a 1:1 class and he was definitely able to tackle some pretty fun waves while I worked.

We did make another stop at The Bookmark because I just loved it. Such a great little bookstore cafe.

The Bookmark

For dinner we found La Destileria which was fun and in a part of Arecibo that was really cute, or had been. Again, it was sometimes hard to tell if things were coming back but we really enjoyed this little spot and wished we had gone a little earlier in the day to walk around and explore.

Day 9 Final Day in Arecibo

airbnb rooftop rainbow

We headed to a local spot, Las Delicias, for breakfast. Definitely has a small little diner vibe that worried us at first but the people were exceptionally kind and both the coffee and food were pretty impressive.

I was still working today but did take some time out to visit our local beach even if it I did have to half roll down what felt like the end of the world to do it.

I just can’t get over that we had this to ourselves

We went back to Árbore for dinner. It was busy and beautiful with all the Christmas lights around the trees. I had the best fish tacos I’ve ever had in my entire life and will never forget. It was the perfect wrap up to our time in Arecibo and Puerto Rico because the next morning we were driving to San Juan to fly out. ❤

final drink at Árbore

Day 10 – Flying home

All in all – Puerto Rico ended up being the perfect escape over the holidays. We were able to easily mix adventure with history with food and work. We learned a lot about this beautiful island that really made my heart ache. I hope we can better support this island and her people and I hope I can go back again sometime. I’m so glad we were able to take the time to explore and stay outside of San Juan.

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