Posts Tagged With: train

One Week Digital Nomad Itinerary: Southwest Spain (2025)

I’ve said it before – many people dream of being a true Digital Nomad: working from beaches, taking a meeting, and relaxing poolside while writing up a email.

But the reality is there are few jobs that allow for true flexibility post pandemic. Add in those of us who have other things that keep us rooted (ie: kids, spouses) and the life of a digital nomad feels unattainable.

Sevilla

And – that’s true. However, I have been using my company’s “work from anywhere” policy to it’s full advantage. We are allowed up to four weeks where our in-office policy is lifted. Most people use it to avoid December in the office. I did that – but decided to do it full out in Spain. For me, the key is to use Europe’s time zone to my advantage. I can explore by day, and work in the evening (keeping my normal CST hours) and I go for just one week.

It’s a way to get a taste of digital nomad life – while also only being away from home, kids, and responsibilities for a week. For me, it was a win/win. I chose Italy for my first foray into this plan and this time I returned for a third visit to Spain.

Sevilla at night

Day 1: Travel and Work

I started my travel on a Monday night, flying overnight to Madrid so I could land around 9am. I like to do as much of my travel as I can on the first day since we know that even if you get nice seats, an overnight flight will always suck our energy. I prefer to be out of it on a train instead of trying to explore a city so I kept right on going from Madrid to Sevilla.

Trains at Atocha

It’s an easy transition but there are logistics involved (plane to bus to train) but I did make it in time check in at the Catalonia Santa Justa. This was a good spot as it was very close to the train station and my room had this view.

Cathedral view while working

I’d seen Sevilla before so I knew exactly where I wanted to go when I had a break in my day around 10pm. Spain always comes alive at night and I felt at ease walking the short distance to the Setas that night to see the lights.

It had been raining but was mild and I took a minute to breath before heading back for a few more emails and then bed.

Setas

Day 2: Seville and travel to Jerez de la Frontera

Since I’d studied/lived in Spain twice before I had already seen a good portion of the country. I knew I wanted to spend my time somewhere new so I decided to stay in a lesser talked about town of Jerez de la Frontera. On the southwest side of the country, it’s right near Cadiz and is small but still easy to get around to other places.

The chia not being soaked at Chia was admittedly disappointing

I took the morning to grab breakfast at Chia and wander Sevilla, mainly spending my time revisiting old haunts (I had stayed there and studied Spanish for two weeks back in 2012). It was fun to wander around and see all the decorations they had up for Christmas as well, since I was there in early December.

By midday though I was back to get my bags and on the train down to Jerez. Upon arrival, I was immediately thrown into Spanish culture as I walked from the train through town to the main pedestrian street at 2pm because it was a total ghost town.

Jerez takes the siesta seriously which is something I neglected to think about when it came to my working schedule, but more on that later. I did stop and grab a few snacks for dinner and got to work.

view from my apartment

I stayed in an apartment right on the main pedestrian walk and I really liked this spot. Perfectly located.

Day 3: Alcazar and Exploring Jerez de la Frontera

I decided to start off my day at the Alcazar in Jerez de la Frontera since there was a risk of rain later. I hadn’t originally planned to visit, since the one in Sevilla was certainly more impressive, but after looking more into it I saw it was quite impressive and I’m glad I took the time.

Alcazar

I did a lot of walking and exploring Jerez – grabbing a tapas lunch at Tabanco San Pedro, which was delightful.. The city is not touristy at all, which was what I hoped to find, though it did make the hope for shopping for souvenirs a little difficult. While there were a few cute areas, there wasn’t a lot by way of small boutiques. It’s a much more practical sort of place that really comes alive at night.

Tapas lunch

This entire region is knowing for its sherry so I decided to fit in a last minute tour at Bodegas Lustau. Easily one of the things I hate the most about traveling alone is booking a tour only to find that I’m the only one on it and unfortunately this happened for this tour.

Bodegas

The woman still did a great job but I had to be far more engaged than I usually am and, since I don’t usually check a bag, I had to awkwardly slink away at the end with no gift shop purchases. That being said, it was a lovely tour and space and I do recommend the experience. They also distribute to the United States which was fun to then find what I had tried when I got back home.

Back to the apartment for work and eventually popped out for “dinner” of gelato at Margarita La Fresca. This gelato was bomb and close to my apartment. It became my go-to work break item.

Day 4: Clocks, Horses, and Constitutions

Early to rise for some breakfast and wandering in a different direction in Jerez. I found myself near a clock museum, the Museo Palacio del Tiempo, and decided to wander in. In a surprise to no one, I was there not long after opening and was the only patron. It quickly got awkward as there was apparently a power issue and there were no light in the space.

The woman said I could come back later but I knew that wouldn’t be an option with my schedule. I refused to let her refund me (she seemed to bereft) so she offered to let me wander the space in the low light until the electricity was fixed. It was actually a really cool experience that way and I did explore long enough for the lights to come back and in all their glory.

This is honestly one of my favorite museums ever. Not only having it entirely private, but it was so whimsical to hear all the clocks chiming each quarter of an hour. Highly recommend popping in.

One of the biggest draws to Jerez de la Frontera is the horse school, the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. It’s considered a must see with the dancing horses and while the crowds were quite low when I went (which I attribute to the time of the year) I did find the show really enjoyable. There’s a (very) small museum that wasn’t really worth the extra payment, imo, but seeing the horses do their thing at this classic establishment really did feel special.

sneaky photo since no filming is alowed

This was Friday, Dec 6th and this started a full weekend of celebration in Jerez that I had been completely ignorant of. This is their Día de la Constitución, and it felt like Independence Day and New Years Day in the way their festivities popped off. The city was absolutely buzzing so I took my “lunch break” at 10 and went down to the nearby, and iconic, Gato Azul.

Gato Azul

Google reviews aren’t the best but honestly the tapas were great, the sherry divine, and the people watching an incredible ten out of ten.

Absolutely vibing with my potato/tuna tapas and sherry

Day 5: Day Trip to Puerto de Santa Maria

I originally had thought I would go to Arcos on this Saturday day trip but the bus schedule was a bit rough so I instead opted for a trip to the closer and highly regarded Puerto de Santa Maria. My first stop was at La Cabana for breakfast. They were packed but I got a spot outside since it was a bit chilly and enjoyed a coffee.

Puerto de Santa Maria – view at La Cabana

This is a lovely little town to wander through. Still not heavily touristed but I did find my way to an excellent churros con chocolate at La Ponderosa. I had yet to stop for churros on this trip to Spain which was honestly, a travesty. This did make up for it.

10/10 and filled with families

The walk down to the water was not a short one, but it was a beautiful day, even if the beach itself wasn’t one that felt good for strolling on. I kept to the sidewalks (as did pretty much everyone else).

Coming back to Jerez, I ran into an absolute wall of Spaniards completely balling out for their holiday. I literally had no idea it was such a huge deal and, on top of that, Jerez was apparently the place for the celebrations. My entire street was completely shut down and I had to detour to get to my apartment since the pedestrian walk was covered in a massive stage.

The crowds!

It looked like a ton of fun and I did end up going back out to wander the streets, not only to feel the vibe, but also because I was determined to do one more sherry tasting, this time at Fundador. This is a very well known brand but I had been unaware they made one called “Harvey” and it felt obligatory to participate.

I wasn’t sure if they would be running tours, given the holiday, but it ended up being the opposite as there was a massive tour happening but I was the only English speaker. I had, of course, been practicing my Spanish up until that point but the one hour tour entirely in Spanish, followed by a group tasting where the table seemed absolutely tickled that they had a solo-traveler from Chicago, definitely made me dredge up some old language skills.

I ultimately walked back through the streets, realizing my only chance for food would be one of the street carts that came out of nowhere as all the restaurants were closed and bars that served tapas were packed.

Concert in front of the Cathedral

I ultimately stopped at a cart for a cone of fries but I had to draw the line at the palest hot dogs I’ve ever seen. There are some foods you just don’t buy outside your home country and for me, that’s a hot dog. It was there that I witnessed a group purchase the hot dogs and proceed to put mayo on them. It was an absolute travesty.

Day 6: Cadiz

This was taken still quite early in the night

Despite how late the partying went the night before, when I went down early to catch a train to Cadiz, the streets were absolutely immaculate. I literally have no idea how they could have possibly been cleaned, but they were. Magicians, I swear.

Cadiz

When I arrived in Cadiz I went to a free walking tour which are always a nice way to get a quick lay of the land of the city. This one was, unfortunately, a little boring as it was very ingrained it telling us the full history of the city (and like – there are roman walls. There is a lot of history). I also managed to arrive at the same time as a cruise ship which is never ideal.

Still, it was lovely to walk through all the streets of Cadiz. Much more touristy with lots of shopping, restaurants, and displays. Given the time of the year, there was a fun Christmas market set up in front of the cathedral.

I managed to do just about all my souvenir shopping in Cadiz. This city gives much more Andalucian vibes and the weather was gorgeous. It was a lot of fun to see everyone out with their families, walking along the waterfront or sitting out at cafes.

My train to Jerez was late and I immediately knew by the rest of the patrons heading in that I was due for another massive party in Jerez, and I was right. Everything was shut down again so I grabbed some mini donuts from a pop up and took them home to people watch on my last night in Jerez.

Day 7: Back to Madrid

Monday again so I needed to start early to make sure I could get everything done before my work day. I hopped the early train back to Madrid and checked in at Sleep’n Atocha. Great location to the train, which I needed, but definitely not ideal for working as this was the smallest room ever.

Not a bad office

They did have a rooftop so I was able to work from there instead of the cramped room, but it was definitely also a hang out spot so it was a bit awkward as I worked late into the evening. Still fun, though.

Puerto del Sol

Earlier when I first arrived in Madrid, I dropped my bags and then wandered Madrid. Like Sevilla, I had been the Madrid a number of times before. The streets were absolutely packed for the holiday and, I assume, Christmas shopping. It was fun to navigate the crowds as I walked closer and closer to Plaza Mayor and Puerta del Sol. I wanted to see what kind of decorations they had and I wasn’t disappointed – especially since there was a huge market up in the plaza.

Plaza Mayor

Ended up getting my last dinner at Oven Mozzarella which was a little silly but just around the corner and everywhere else (including 100 Montaditos which was going to be nostalgic) was absolutely packed. It ended up being quite good though and I did a quick little walk around Retiro to see some lights before heading back to work.

Lights around Retiro

Day 8: Travel Home

So – all in all – I managed to do all of this travel and still only took one out of office day (Tuesday) to fly back. This was my second time doing this work from anywhere cadence and I’m absolutely hooked. As a solo traveler, coming back for the evening around 3pm really isn’t much of a hardship as dinners and activities in the evening solo are often way harder to do – and are a bit more awkward. It’s easy to get up early, see everything, and be back in time for meetings.

Puerto de Santa Maria

I will admit that, while Spain will always hold a special spot in my heart, I don’t necessarily recommend it for this kind of travel. Perhaps it would work if you stayed in bigger cities, or, even better, the north of Spain where siesta culture doesn’t have quite as much of a stranglehold. I deeply underestimated how difficult it would be to get a robust lunch between 1-3pm which is usually what I do so I can just work through the evening and not have to worry about popping out to get dinner. That, coupled with the festivities, and I do feel like my food game was off this trip as I had to opt for convenience multiple times.

Still – Jerez and this Cadiz region was a whole vibe and felt very European. I only saw a couple of American tourists the whole time I was there and really enjoyed watching the Spaniards celebrate.

Sevilla

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Poland to Sarajevo to Mostar: An Off the Beaten Path Adventure (2025)

We all have our favorite spots in the world. For me, Bosnia is absolutely one of them. I cannot wait to spend even more time in the Balkans in the future. If you want a unique, still low on the list for most tourists, but stunning and very easy to navigate spot, this country is for you.

Sarajevo

Day 1: Travel

I will admit, travel to Bosnia is a smidge tricky. This is only because we didn’t have any direct flights from New York nor Chicago and layover options were also dicey. Marjorie and I decided to be creative and opted for a “long layover” in Poland so we could line up our flights to Bosnia together and also explore Poland a bit.

First evening in Warsaw

Marjorie arrived earlier this day but I didn’t until the late afternoon. We opted to stay in the more “up and coming” area of Warsaw, at the Moxy Praga. It was an easy spot for Marjorie to do a working day. I bopped around the cute area in the evening and grabbed dinner at Toast.

Cute lobby at the Moxy

This restaurant was much nicer than I expected but I really enjoyed my little meal and drink before heading back to the hotel room and absolutely crashing for the night.

Legendary toast at Toast

Day 2: Explore Warsaw

Marjorie had to spend one more day working New York hours so we did a morning free walking tour of Warsaw. I actually really liked the city – I thought it looked really nice to live there. However, I have to admit that, as a tourist, it was on the boring side. The unfortunate realities of war and how much had to be rebuilt. Still, the tour was interesting and a great way to get the layout of the city.

We had lunch at a truly delicious Lebanese restaurant, Le Cedre 61. I thought I would maybe explore a little more once Marjorie starting working for the evening but I ended up hanging around the hotel. It was a chilly day and all the sites remaining to see that we didn’t cover on our walking tour didn’t feel worth it and/or weren’t open so late in the year (rooftop gardens, etc)

We did opt for a hot chocolate flight near our hotel which like… how could we not? We also found our very on this day that the tour I had booked to Auschwitz (one of my lifelong bucket list spots) was going to need an absurd pick up time of 3am so we tried to get to sleep early.

Day 3: Auschwitz and Krakow

the sign

Auschwitz is about a four hour drive from Warsaw but I honestly assumed I would never be back to Poland so I knew I needed to take advantage of the proximity. Looking back, I would have figured out a different way to do it as the drive length plus the early pick up definitely dampened the experience.

That being said, I’m still glad I went and saw what so many of us in the US learn about multiple times throughout our schooling. Auschwitz was, in many ways, everything I expected and also completely different. I found the tour set up lacking in many ways. The sheer volume of tourists allowed in the spaces at one time made it hard to hear any of the guide and any of the displays with pictures or descriptions were always blocked by people. I understand the popularity of the experience but I hope they are able to limit more in the future.

Birkenau

Even with the dynamics of tourism, it was impossible not to feel the reality of the horror of such a place. I found it really hit me when we went the mile down the road to Birkenau where there was space to move at more of our own pace. Seeing the rail road and feeling the warm breeze felt jarring. The guide was finally silent to allow us to just experience the space. It was deeply moving.

After Auschwitz, we were able to spend a couple hours in nearby Krakow which is definitely a gem of a city.

in Krakow

After we were dropped off to explore, we stopped at Na Brackiej to eat. The food was delightful and the place was absolutely adorable. We then wandered the city, exploring the old and beautiful square and doing a little shopping. We didn’t have time on this trip but Krakow is absolutely worth an overnight stop.

traditional breakfast at Na Brackiej

Then it was a long drive back to Warsaw and to the Moxy for the night.

Day 4: Travel to Bosnia and Sarajevo Tour

flying into Sarajevo

The Warsaw airport is easy to navigate and we were able to catch our flight to Sarajevo with no issues. We had found ourselves a city tour, the Total Siege Tour, that offered an airport pick up. This started our strategy for the trip – combining tours with travel. It worked beautifully.

This Siege Tour is quite possible this was one of the best tours I’ve ever taken. I’ve traveled to many places that had experienced war and strife – obviously, we literally came from Auschwitz the day before – but nothing has quite humbled and hit me like Bosnia, and this particular tour, did.

Building entrance to the Tunnel of Life

First, it was led by a man named Edo. He was 53 and a veteran of the Bosnian War. He was able to tell us about remembering the 1984 Olympics, held in a thriving Sarajevo. Then he was in the war and siege from 1991-1995. And then there was now, where Sarajevo is again a beautiful city of diverse cultures and hosting tourists. Insane.

Tunnel of Life

We got to tour the Tunnel of Life that the Bosnians built under the airport/no man’s land.

He was able to talk about how the UN had to take people back who were trying to escape the endless siege of the city since they had to be “neutral”. The citizens were just trying to escape the constant bombardment and snipers. The tunnel was critical to the city being able to hold out. Learning about this from Edo was incredible – he himself went through the tunnel multiple times, including being carried through after he had been shot in the chest and stomach.

Edo, an absolute legend

He was constantly pointing out Serbian held areas that had bunkers. Bullet holes in facades were everywhere as well as the “Sarajevo roses” which are where they filled in the mortar shell holes with red resin to honor victims.

Bobsled track which we got to walk on

We went to the old bobsled track for the Olympics which had been converted into a bunker for the war and now is a place for graffiti art. It was raining and we were soaked but I found it absolutely fascinating. He also took us to the cemetery which had doubled as as bunker for the Serbians as well.

Bullet holes in the gravestones

After the tour Edo very kindly drove us way too far up the ancient, steep one lane roads to get us as close as possible to our airbnb. This spot was absolutely adorable with the nicest hosts ever (honestly, I could say that about everyone we met in Bosnia).

Day 5: Day Tour to Jajce, Travnik, and Pliva Lake

Mlincici

We rose early (always a general theme) to take a day trip to some of the most iconic views in the Bosnian country. It was another rainy day, but thankfully the rain happened primarily while we were in the van. Admittedly, the drive time was longer than I would have liked but our stops were definitely impressive.

Pilva Lake

We, get again, had a very cool guide in Gigi who was, literally, an Olympian. In the midst of the siege, he participated in the 1994 Bobsled race in Oslo. He was a wildly eccentric human which made our tour very memorable. As did the eclectic group of two Swedes, two Poles, two Italians, and us!

Jajce Waterfall

In the morning we took a long drive (almost three hours) to Jajce. There was a lot to see there – waterfalls and watermills, plus a beautiful lake. We also went to Travnik which had a fortress and a colorful mosque. There I had my first taste of Cevapi at Cevabdzinica Tenic where I immediately fell in love with the dish. I’m not even a big meat eater!

view from the Fortress in Travnik

The tour was longer than we would have liked so while it was nice, I do think this is one that could be easily skipped. Or perhaps take the opportunity to stay overnight in Jajce to break it up and have time to really explore.

Day 6: Tour down to Mostar

Konjic bridge

Yes, another day tour but we were yet again able to pair this up with our necessary travel needs as, instead of making it a day trip, we were able to end in Mostar, our next destination.

Dervish House

We had a very quick stop in Konjic to take a picture of the old bridge and then continued on to the Dervish House which was truly beautiful both inside and out. We were also able to take a quick walk up to the walls of a old Ottoman town and got the absolute best views over the valley.

We finally got some sunshine just in time for us to visit the Kravica Waterfalls which was ridiculously cool. We didn’t opt into the swimming and instead got some refreshment in the sunshine.

Kravica Waterfalls

Finally we made it to Mostar where we got a quick tour of the tour before they dropped us off practically on the doorstop to our airbnb. Bosnians do not skimp on their hospitality, I’m telling you.

The iconic Mostar bridge

Our airbnb spot was perfect – easily walkable to the old town and the train station. It was also just down the street from Blok Bar which we went to more than once. It was so convenient to our location and exceptionally reasonably priced. They had the equivalent of ~$3 cocktails. I really loved Bosnia.

5 KM = $3 USD

Day 7: Exploring Mostar

We finally had a day without a packed agenda and it was perfectly timed with gorgeous weather. We spent the day wandering early through Old Town which was fun as nothing was open yet.

At Caffe Cardak

We were able to get a table at the absolute cutest and instagrammable place above the Old Mostar bridge, Cardak. It was the best spot for Bosnian coffee and a little sweet treat.

View from Caffe Cardak

The shopping here was fabulous and we stocked up on lotions and souvenirs and art. We had a massive and delicious lunch at Urban which had an incredible view on the lovely terrace.

More wandering and gelato in the evening at Sky. This town is just as magical as everyone says it is.

Day 8: Exploring more of Mostar

We had another free day here at I think we really made the most of it. We opted to wander further away from Old Town and it was still beautiful. First we stopped by the famous sniper tower (former bank location). You can’t go in, but it’s covered in art.

looking up at the sniper tower

There is a whole promenade really near the famous sniper tower where I took advantage of a woman giving out Free Hugs. Along the promenade there are still completely destroyed buildings. But also so much that has been repaired has been done artistically, instead of erasing.

along the promenade

We did circle back to see Old Town one more time and stopped for coffee at the beautiful space of Fabrika on recommendation from our airbnb host. Very worth it.

Fabrika coffee

In the afternoon we decided to explore Fortica Hill for its incredible viewpoint. We took a taxi up to save time but then walked the full hour down the hill which was really energizing and beautiful.

Fortica Hill Viewpoint

We also stopped at the cutest little pizzeria (Sara) for dinner and the sunset.

Pizzeria Sara

It ended up being a chill and easy day where we really saw more of the city. I feel like we truly saw Mostar and had truly endless amounts of positive interactions with the citizens of Mostar. They were all so lovely.

Mostar

Day 9: Travel back to Sarajevo

Latin bridge

We hopped a very early train back to Sarajevo. It’s a beautiful ride but it was also rainy/foggy so we didn’t see as much of it as we did on the way down in the van. Still, it was comfortable and we were able to go straight to the Hotel Sana to check in. While not the most up to date hotels we’ve been in, it was convenient and the staff was nice.

Coffee and people watching at Caffe Anya

Then we walked – we really wanted to explore and see Sarajevo since we had so little time the first night we stayed. We had a couple coffee shop stops and I was finally able to try burek. Even though we went to the most famous location, I wasn’t very impressed, to be honest.

Sarajevo Rose

But I did find the city immensely impressive. I love the split of east/west vibes. All the shopping and people in one area. And of course the river and beautiful bridges spanning them as well.

Day 10: Travel Home

Our flights didn’t quite match up so I did have to travel home before Marjorie, but there was an easy bus to walk to so I did – though I am very jealous of the extra time she got in this beautiful country.

Pomegranates

I loved Bosnia and everything I saw there. The cities and country were gorgeous. The people were all so unbelievable kind. Add in the fascinating and moving history and it’s a place I cannot wait to go back to.

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Road Trip in Helgeland, Norway – Go WAY Off the Beaten Path (June 2024)

When I think of my bucket list, Norway has always been near the top. Why? Wilderness, beauty, sure – but, even more, my Grandmother always spoke about her Norwegian Sami heritage. At 91 years old, it was well past time for me to go to the country and town (Mosjøen) she always remembered her mother speaking about.

Norway = endless beauty

Even without the draw of heritage, this was a trip to remember. This was easily the most Off the Beaten Path I’ve ever done – we found very little by way of international tourism in this particular area of Norway. (There was literally one blog that provided endless useful info, huge thanks to Heart my Backpack for info and inspo!) And after coming back I can say – don’t sleep on Norway. There is beauty around every corner.

Day 1 – Landing in Bodø

Bodø

If you want to explore the Nordland, Bodø (pronounced more like “Buddah”) is a prime spot to start. It’s an easy two hour flight from Oslo, where almost all your international flights will transfer. I was coming straight from Chicago and unfortunately delays caused me to miss my final flight (sob) but there are multiple daily flights on Norwegian and SAS up to Bodø so I was only slightly delayed.

Marjorie met me at the little airport where we were able to literally walk to our hotel (Radisson Blu) on the cutest little walking path. The sun was glorious and even though it was getting late in the day, we traveled in late June which meant we had the endless sun.

We dropped my bags and immediately went to explore. Bodø is a treat. Lovely walking areas with lots of shops. We chose pizza for our first night and went to Bjørk. Not a bad stop at all, especially if it’s nice and you can take advantage of the outdoor upstairs patio.

After we grabbed ice cream at a cart – when you get ice cream in Norway do not miss the chocolate topping powder. It’s magic.

We then walked the long pier to take pictures of the sailboats. A friendly Norwegian told us what looked like weird hunks of concrete with holes in them all along the pier was actually art. It was designed to make haunting, beautiful noises on windy days. This started us on a path of breaking all the stoic/slightly rude Norwegian stereotypes. We had lovely interactions throughout the trip.

Day 2 – Travel to Mosjøen

When most people land in Bodø, their next move is go northwest to visit the Lofoten Islands. We chose, instead, to go off the beaten path. So we went south, hopping the almost 4 hour train to Mosjøen.

But first – breakfast at the hotel. And let me tell you, one of my most surprising cultural realizations about Norway is that they do not mess around when it comes to a hotel breakfast. They start early compared to the US and they are very well stocked. Given that it was almost impossible to find open breakfast restaurants/coffee shops (more to come on that later) the over-the-top hotel breakfasts are something that you should definitely take advantage of.

We then high tailed it out of there because it started to rain. This will be a common statement, unfortunately. We would end up having significant rain for 9 days out of the 11 we had on the ground in this fabulous country. This was definitely a bummer for a lot of our trip but we did the best we could.

And for this first day, it wasn’t too bad because a train in the rain allows for a special kind of beauty. We boarded and spend our first hours watching out the windows of what is known to be the most scenic train ride in northern Norway. It did not disappoint. We even were stopped for a while and they made the tea and coffee machines free due to the wait. We didn’t realize that at first and Friendly Norwegian #2 on our trip made sure to interrupt our jabbering to let us know we should take advantage of the treat.

street in Mosjøen

We pulled into Mosjøen with a bit of a dilemma. Our hotel was a mile walk from the train station but the pouring rain made that option much less appealing. Google told us the bus stop was at the same station and, sure enough, we saw a coach bus idling. This is where we met Friendly (friendliest!) Norwegian #3 – also known as the world’s cutest bus driver. He didn’t know English but it wasn’t hard to show him our destination (the hotel in Mosjøen). He proceeded to exit the public bus, store our luggage, and drive us right to the front door of the hotel, all while refusing payment. It was adorable and unbelievably helpful.

We spent the day wandering the small and sleepy town – easily done in a single day. We popped into a great coffee shop with good food, Umami, and, later, had dinner at Tippen Gastro.

start of the 3000+ stairs

Thoroughly full, we walked across the river and hiked up about 280 steps of the 3000+ that would have gotten us to the top of the mountain. Honestly, our view at 280 was perfectly fine for us and a great way to finish out our first day in Mosjøen.

Day 3 – Road Trip! First stop: Lovund

After another epic hotel breakfast, we walked 20 minutes in the pouring rain to the nearby Avis to pick up our rental car. Friendly Norwegian #4 was so nice and we became proud temporary owners of a little hatchback wagon by Skoda. And we were off!

our scrappy little diesel

The 2.5 hour absolutely beautiful drive to Stokkvagen was very easy. Mo i Rana was a perfect midway pit stop for coffee as well.

The ferry at Stokkvagon was a trip. It was still early in the season for tourists and we were only one of two cars on the giant ferry. Taking the ferry was a breeze – we just got in line and drove on. The lack of directions at the location worried us but we just followed along and it was seamless. Honestly, I have no idea if we paid anything. If we did, it was via a toll on our license plate, or it was free. Whatever the cost, it was an absolutely lovely 1.5 hour trip to our island stop.

Despite the crummy weather (yes, still raining), Lovund was exceptional. We stayed at the iconic Lovund Hotell in a fisherman’s cabin. I was instantly in love. It absolutely could not have been cozier or cuter.

our was the one on the end!

teeny living space, bedroom behind, and a private deck

For dinner we took advantage of the fine dining at the hotel and had a three course dinner that took us out of our comfort zone but was definitely the most unique and “authentic” food we had all trip (smoked salmon, sirloin, and rhubarb soup for dessert, complete with wine pairings).

rhubarb soup dessert!

Day 4 – Exploring Lovund

Lovund is a island that needs no car, so we left out little Skoda parked and walked everywhere. While still dreary, it wasn’t quite a truly rainy today so we took advantage and went for a nice walk. We thought we were following a path but… we couldn’t find it. Pretty sure we just walked through random, sometimes boggy, fields. So it didn’t last long, but it was a nice little exploration nonetheless.

We made it over to The Coast Coffee when they opened… which was 11am. We found their hours truly flabbergasting given it is the only coffee shop on the island. It was cute and worth a stop despite the wonky hours. We also had dinner at Emaus – a little pub with bar food that was quite decent for, again, because really the only restaurant on the island outside of our hotel.

that’s me in my exceptionally Norweigan raincoat

It was then, finally, late enough in the day where we could see what we came here for – the puffins! We were given the advice to wait until the early evening as that is when the puffins come back to their nests. Given the endless sun, we didn’t have to worry about hiking in the dark.

So here’s the thing – ultimately, it was an incredibly cool experience. We hiked up to the base of a rocky cliffside and the puffins were circling above us. Puffins filled the air – they would eventually swoop down and head into their little nests in the rocks. It was pretty amazing to see and listen to their fluttering and squawking. We did overestimate how close they would be as we had seen some really amazing pictures but, of course, realized those had to have been taken with very impressive cameras. So we didn’t get any kind of really good picture or even amazing live visual because, for protection of their nests, we couldn’t get very close.

this photo has been lifted from the Visit Norway website

But when we had set off on the fairly well marked path (we got turned around just a bit) we had been blissfully unaware we had neglected one key item. We were, unfortunately, not given the advice to bring bug spray.

And there were the midges.

I have never, in my LIFE, endured the torture that was those microscopic bugs. It was horrible – we had as much of our bodies and faces protected as possible and it was still impossible. But we had come to Lovund for THIS, dang it, so we endured the misery – never standing still and swatting, swatting, swatting. I forget how long we stayed – somewhere between 1 or 2 hours. But when we finally left and got back to the cabin we were COVERED in bites and little midges that had died in our clothes.

So – tl;dr – if you go, take bug spray and it’ll be perfect.

Day 5 – Road Trip! Lovund -> Nesna

Our last morning in Lovund was a delight as the clouds parted and we had glorious sun. We were able to take advantage of another epic breakfast and spent time hanging out on the rooftop of the Lovund Hotell, enjoying the sunshine and truly endless beauty.

It was this day that sealed the deal for me – Norway is the most beautiful place I’ve seen, and may ever see.

We left on the afternoon ferry back the way we came and then drove an hour or so down the coast to end in an itty bitty town calls Nesna. We opted to stay the night there because the next step was a ferry and we didn’t want to worry about timing.

Nesna can barely be called a town, with just one or two restaurants and a couple shops/grocery stores. We originally had what looked like a lovely airbnb, but they cancelled on us and, literally, our only other option was to stay at TopCamp Havblikk an RV/campground that had cabins.

our cabin

We were worried but it overall wasn’t bad – there were some cons (apparently they don’t have a restaurant anymore? That would have been helpful to know in advance) and despite having our own cabin, it didn’t have water/bath so we had to use the community facilities which were fairly clean. The pro? This view:

We had an afternoon fighting hunger as when we walked to the only restaurant in town, Smak Og Behag they had a note on the door saying they would open later than usual. So we wandered a bit to another place we thought was a restaurant (it was actually a cafeteria style spot in their only grocery) where I was able to pick up $11 bug spray. We went back to Smak Og Behag and still waited a long time for food (we later realized they had a massive group reserved and their kitchen was just not up to the task). I don’t remember much about the food, but it did the job and their little outdoor space overlooking the water wasn’t a bad spot to hang out.

outdoor seating at Smak Og Behag

They also had ice cream which we, of course, grabbed for dessert before walking the pier and then heading back to our cabin for the night.

Day 6 – Road Trip! Nesna -> Dønna

There were two days on our Norway trip that really went sideways, and this was one of them. We woke to drizzle, and then rain, which wasn’t the end of the world because we planned to be back in the car for a day of roads and ferries to get to the island of Dønna, our final stop for the night.

Things though… were delayed. We quickly learned there would be no food or coffee to speak of as we packed up and got in line for the ferry. Literally nothing in the town was open. So we chilled out and chatted in the car, chit-chatting and waiting for the 8:10 ferry to pull up.

I was always tickled by this GPS view on our ferries

And waiting. And waiting.

8:10 came and went. Other cars filed in around and behind us. We saw people getting out and wandering, talking. We learned from Friendly Norwegian #5 that, apparently, the ferry wasn’t coming. Hopefully it would be there for the 9:20.

Nothing. Apparently there was mechanical issues. That this kind of thing never happened. We saw the gas station opened up so I walked over and grabbed a couple bags of chips, getting fairly drenched in the process. Far too rainy to meander along the beautiful pier, it was back to the car where we waited some more.

We finally got on the 10:30am ferry and then drove the 45 minutes on land to get in line for the next ferry. Thank goodness the ferry routes are necessary for locals with lots of options because, while we had to wait for it, we had no trouble getting on our final ferry out of Sandnessjøen that took us to Dønna. Those ferries were less picturesque though because they weren’t long enough to get out of the car.

driving across Helgeland Bridge near Sandnessjøen

The island of Dønna was, again, almost unbearably beautiful. Very narrow, but well kept, roads made driving in all the rain perfectly fine. We made it to our spot for the night, Brygga på Dønna which was… honestly, just okay. The space itself was beautiful and clearly recently redone (you could still smell that new construction smell). It was so new that it obviously hadn’t been restocked yet. But the view was incredible.

our view

But there was absolutely nothing on the grounds. We either misunderstood or were just in that strange window of time before the season but we had anticipated, if not staff on site, some kind if guidance. Instead, while very nice, the owner basically told us that every option for food was 30+ minutes out and that was about all the guidance we had. Without knowing this in advance, it meant driving back the way we came though, again, heavy rain.

A bit disappointed, we did make the best of it and drove all the way to the sister island of Herøy. I’ll never forget that drive – the roads are all single land with little pop outs to pull over when another car is coming. That’s nerve wracking on its own, but there are multiple long one lane bridges where you have to rely on mirrors and prayers to get across without a head-on collision. I just remember white knuckling and screeching on this journey. Marjorie’s trust in me is truly unmatched.

No drive to Herøy should skip Etcetera – one of the most eclectic shops I’ve ever been in. Multiple levels, it’s part experience and part store. We didn’t find anything we thought was worth the cost and effort of shipping home, but it was close. Definitely a fun little stop.

Etcetera

We kept going and opted for dinner at Herøy Brygge – a hotel with attached restaurant. This was, easily, the worst meal we had on the trip. While the menu was as promising as we expected (for some reason Norweigan restaurants in these little areas were almost exclusively serving pizza, burgers, and Caesar salads. I’ve never had so many Caesar salads in my life as I did on this Norway trip). Unfortunately the quality was sub-par.

It ended up turning into something quite hilarious as our waiter was really into chatting with us and we had to just keep pretending that we enjoyed our food and our day after so many setbacks. He thought he was doing us a kindness and gifted us free desserts that were truly the worst tasting and driest cakes I’ve ever eaten. We choked down as much as we could, smiled to keep the manic tears at bay, and high tailed it out of there.

So – all in all – I can’t recommend Herøy and Dønna as a must stop. Don’t get me wrong, the views were incredible but we’d had a lot of those already. It wasn’t exceptionally different than before, was the most difficult to get to (and drive in while there) and that much more further isolated.

Day 7 – Road Trip! Dønna -> Mosjøen

Thoroughly ready to get back to a bit more population, we left early (still raining!) to catch the 8:20 ferry back to Sandnessjøen and then about a 2 hour drive to complete our circuit back to Mosjøen. This drive was really neat as it takes you through an exceptionally long tunnel (7 minutes to drive through!).

We dropped the car and did a little more soggy exploration of Mosjøen – there’s a lot of cute stores to pop into, I bought such a cool red raincoat the first time around. A bit defeated by the last couple of days, we opted for comfort and had lovely coffee and meals at Umami and Tippen again. We also stayed in the same hotel where they even gave us the same room!

beer at Tippen for dinner

Day 8 – Travel to Bodø

Our originally scheduled train to and from Bodø had mechanical issues so, for the second time this trip, we had to get up exceptionally early and head over to the train station. Happy again for the 24 hour sun because making the mile walk in the light drizzle was fairly pleasant since it wasn’t dark.

Another beautiful ride did dump us in Bodø and into a conundrum. We were significantly earlier than we had planned with all our luggage, pouring rain, and an airbnb host who couldn’t get us into the space earlier than check in. So – we were stuck. Even if we didn’t have the luggage (which we did) it was pouring.

So we hopped to a little cafe to kill some time, and then to the very pretty library to kill even more time. Bodø is a small enough town that even if we had paid for someone to hold our bags, there just wasn’t much to do in that weather except wait it out and read some books.

library in Bodø

Mid afternoon rolled around and we were fortunate enough to have the rain lighten to a drizzle so we could walk the mile-ish to what turned out to be a very charming airbnb space. We dried out a little and went back into town to get dinner at Hundholmen Brygghus, a super chic space with good beer and food. It rounded out our last night in town quite well.

Day 9 – Bodø –> Oslo

Our final morning in Bodø took us to Melkebaren for some tasty lattes and then back to the airport for our midday flight to Oslo.

saying bye to Helgeland

Oslo was such a lovely change – first off, it was legitimately hot and beautifully sunny. After the rainy stretch we had, that alone would perk us up. But it wasn’t even just that – Oslo was such a lovely surprised. I had only heard very mixed reviews – but I immediately was in love. Very European architecture with big walking streets.

touristy area leading to the palace

There were touristy areas but also these absolutely lovely pedestrian areas that were clearly being used by locals and tourists alike.

very cool vibes in the Aker Brygge area

We grabbed dinner outdoors at Latter, sucked in by how incredibly gorgeous the street was. We didn’t even realize it was a comedy club – the food alone is absolutely worth a visit. That whole area was so lovely to walk and we circled around to the promenade area.

We grabbed strawberries covered in chocolate from a street vendor and they were easily a top ten dessert.

The walk back to the hotel was long but enjoyable with a hike around the fortress and then all thew ay over the the famous operate house for some epic shots of the city.

view from the old fortress – active military still on site!

We stayed at First Hotel Millennium – I thought it was a great location and breakfast/accommodations were nice so no complaints there.

Day 10 – Oslo

Our final, and full, day in Oslo really sealed the deal for me on this being one of my favorite cities. It was another lovely day and we were able to do a ton of walking – almost 10 miles total!

After breakfast at the hotel, we hopped a tram to Vigelandsparken which is a big sculpture park – a really cool place to go to if you have the time.

We were there for a while and then huge amounts of tour groups started showing up – you might miss some of the info but highly recommend going on your own and before the crowds. It’s a bit outside of the city proper but easy to navigate public transportation.

coffee break!

We picked a couple neighborhoods and bopped around – Harald’s Vaffel was a fun stop, if more quirky than delicious, but was close to Damstredet which had historical buildings and we also walked through a fun street art area.

We went back to the hotel for a quick break and then were back at it, popping over to the architectural marvel of the public library, more views of the opera house, and then lastly to the Munch museum. We aren’t typically big museum people, but I’m a sucker for art museums featuring single artists and this one was really cool to see.

Dinner was at Freddy Fuego Burrito Bar which was set up like a Chipotle but about a thousand times better. We then hiked all the way back to the Aker Brygge Promenade for another cup of those incredible strawberries and spend the rest of our evening looking out over the water.

It was lovely and beautiful and an absolutely perfect way to end our tour of Norway.

Day 11 – Travel Home

The flights home were early and the train to the airport was easy – just remember to keep your ticket as you need it to exit! It wasn’t long before we were on our way and saying good-bye.

All in all, this was one of the most chaotic trips Marjorie and I have encountered. We ran into so many more obstacles than we are used to – between the storms that made it truly inconvenient to do what we needed to on most days to transportation issues on flights, trains, and ferries. It was also a trip unlike any we’ve ever done in that it was truly off the tourist grid. We went places that had one hotel and almost nothing by way of blogs.

Would I recommend our exact itinerary to someone else? Nope. But would I recommend something like what we did? Absolutely. There was so much to discover and so much endless beauty! Norway Helgeland and Oslo stole my heart.

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Portugal: Volunteering with a View – Sept 2023

Marjorie and I knew we couldn’t go a full decade before volunteering again. It was, after all, the start of our love story.

We both solo traveled to Nicaragua on a Habitat for Humanity trip in 2014 and were randomly assigned as roommates. Immediate friends. Since then we’ve done amazing travel and managed to check off multiple bucket list items. This trip was absolutely another bucket list one for me – I knew I wanted to do another build and now it’s complete!

The best part about this trip is we managed to sandwich our volunteer activities with sight seeing. We spent two solid weeks in Portugal and, I think, really made the most of it.

Day 1 – Lisbon

After a red eye flight, Marjorie and I met up in Lisbon. I landed significantly later so she was able to get more mileage on foot than I ended up with, but I still managed to see a significant chunk of Lisbon for only one afternoon.

Lisbon

This is where free walking tours – like the one we did with Take Tours – really come to the rescue. After I Ubered to our hotel, we made our way to caffeinate me (thank you Copenhagen Coffee Lab ❤ ❤ ❤ ).

Coffee pick me up

Then to the square for the free tour where we got a download on the best of Lisbon and interesting Portugal history. This tour checks off the box of the Santa Justa Lift (below) which was a nice plus.

I’m always completely wiped after a red eye so we took a leisurely walk back to our hotel, stopping at La Terrasse for some food and a drink. We didn’t know at the time, but this place has pretty terrible reviews. Honestly, I thought it was fine but we did both get salads so it was a pretty easy lift. The view was lovely so all in all, I have no reason to avoid this restaurant but be wary that the food doesn’t have a great reputation.

La Terrasse view

We stopped at Popbar for ice cream on the way back (so delightful!) and then spent the rest of the evening in the courtyard of our hotel. Solar do Castelo was such a lovely little find. We did hope it would be a bit more “castle like” on the interior but it comes off as just an old building overall.

Solar do Castelo courtyard

Still, it was such a unique spot in the city and the breakfast is excellent. I loved this unique location so highly recommend, especially if it’s a just a one night stop.

Day 2 – Sintra

View of Sintra from the Moorish castle

If you’ve done any research on Lisbon you’ll know that Sintra is a very hyped day trip. We decided we needed more time in this well loved space so after breakfast we checked out of the hotel and went to the Rossio train station (super cheap and easy) to catch the train to Sintra.

Rossio Train Station

Once in Sintra we walked the short distance to our truly lovely airbnb. This place felt so decadent with two full bathrooms and a cozy living space both indoors and outdoors. Highly recommend this spot as it’s also so convenient to the train and bus that you will likely take around to the sites.

our lovely airbnb

After dropping our bags, we grabbed a quick lunch at Taverna. The outdoor seating and service was nice, decent food too, so no concerns. Energized and ready to go, we decided the best deal was to buy the 24 hour pass for the bus circuit. All in all, this seemed like the easiest way to get around. We did find we had to wait a long time for the lesser used route the following day but overall it was very easy to navigate.

Moorish castle

After a little bit of a snafu where I thought we were going to Pena Palace but I was a day off (whoops, my bad!) we opted to visit the Moorish Castle on Friday afternoon. It was a beautiful, clear day which is absolutely a requirement for this site. The Moorish Castle is positively stunning and I’m actually really glad we came to this spot first. In my opinion this is an absolute must do. It’s an extremely well preserved site and the views are endless. It also makes for a really cool spot to get distance pictures of Pena Palace (distance pictures = best pictures. More on that later).

After the Moorish Castle we took the bus back to our airbnb, only to walk half the distance back to our chosen dinner location, a tapas place recommended by our airbnb, Tascantiga. It was a decent location – the view made it worth – but I would say only half the tapas were truly noteworthy. All in all, I bet there are some better places along the route we walked.

Tascantiga

Day 3 – Sintra

Breakfast took us to Cafe Saudade where I got my fill of pastries (the Portuguese love their bread, let me tell you) with a sampler of travesseiro (pastry filled with butter almond cream), queijada (pastry with cheese/egg/cinnamon), and, of course, pastel de nata. While perhaps not the best Pastel I had the whole trip, this location and coffee was a good start to the day.

Well of Initiation

We hopped the very first bus that was going to take us on the longer loop of the day and set off. We didn’t skimp on experiences. Our first stop (and what you should do as it’s the most logical order) was the Quinta da Regaleira which has the famous Well of Initiation.

This was a fantastic stop. The well in of itself is worth the line of tour groups – but the rest of the grounds are also excellent. The whole place is full of little mystical nooks to discover. You truly feel like you are in some kind of faerie land. It’s unique to anywhere else I’ve been.

at Quinta

Once we had our fill there, we got back on the bus to go to Monserrate Palace. This one has a lot of grounds and gardens to walk through before you find the Palace themselves. They were beautiful, though perhaps not quite as majestic as Quinta’s. The Palace itself was lovely and intricate – it’s a lot quieter of a stop. I’m glad we went but this could be skipped in favor of Quinta if you are on a time crunch.

Monserrate Palace

We had to wait a while for the bus after we hiked back to the road, and by the time we got back to town it we had a short amount of time to grab food before getting back on the bus to make our way to Pena Palace. Padaria Saloia was the perfect quick stop with sandwiches, pastries, and coffee.

There are two bus stops for Pena Palace- one low for the gardens and one higher for the entrance to the palace itself. The first one you come up on is the gardens, that wasn’t super clear for us at first. We got off at the first one because we had almost two hours before our timed entry and planned to use it to explore the gardens.

I really enjoyed walking through all the gardens. It, once again, gave off a feel of going back in time and exploring a somewhat magical place. It was pretty tricky trying to figure out the “right” path so if you have time to wander and get lost – do it. We were constantly stumbling over old buildings or sites, often covered in ivy. It was very peaceful and I could see it being really cool in the early hours of the day or late in the evening.

We had enough time to walk all the way up to the High Cross. I wouldn’t necessarily say you need to go there but it was a nice target for our wandering and from there it is an easy walk across to the palace itself.

So – Pena Palace. This is where it gets interesting. We read SO many blogs before traveling to Sintra and while quite a few mentioned that Pena would be busy, everyone said it was worth it. I’m here to say it is 100% not worth it. I strongly, strongly, recommend not buying tickets to tour the palace. It’s a total tourist trap and despite having timed entry, they really don’t limit the amount of people who are doing in at all. We were like cattle. It was truly claustrophobic and we were desperate to get out.

Because here’s the thing – you can still visit Pena Palace without buying an entry to the interior Palace. This is what we would recommend. Buy exclusively the park entry. You can do all the park wandering and walk right up to the palace itself. You can walk the whole perimeter with just the park pass – and the exterior of the palace is really the impressive part. I felt totally bamboozled so take my advice and don’t do the interior at all – and then you don’t have to worry about a timed entry at all.

IF you really want to see the interior (again, not worth it), I recommend buying the very last entry of the day. We were there late in the day and we were able to loiter around for a while to get the best pictures and people started to leave. First entry isn’t going to get you there early enough to get pictures without people or being treated like cattle.

After ripping on Pena Palace for a while, we took the bus back down the mountain and poked our heads into Incomum. This place is nice and if you want to go I recommend a reservation – she managed to squeeze us in because we were early in the day. The food was excellent, if expensive. I bought a bread board and got literally one piece of bread, ha. But it was excellent quality and a delicious meal.

Incomum

We couldn’t leave without gelato of course so we stopped at Alba Gelato which was a delicious choice. They had a nice outdoor seating space and are right on a park – definitely recommend.

Day 4 – Travel to Porto

Leaving Sintra

It was not easy to say good-bye to Sintra, I could have spent another day in that cute little tourist town. But we rose early to grab the train and start our travel north. We had to train first to Lisbon and then switch trains to Porto, which was easy enough.

We met up with our Fuller Center team after grabbing some really good smoothies at Esquires Coffee. From here we were able to sit back, relax, and let our group do all the planning for us. Our bus took us north past Braga to our guesthouse where we relaxed on the beautiful property and had dinner.

Domus Guesthouse for Fuller Center

Days 5-9 – Fuller Center Build

From Monday to Friday that week, the vast majority of our time was spent on the build site. Generally, the schedule was to wake up, grab breakfast in the guesthouse kitchen, and then bus to Tadim, an itty bitty down just outside of Braga. We were generally at the work site around 9am and started our tasks immediately.

Our translator, Niko, chatting with volunteer, Irene

The best part of this build was the variety of tasks, both skilled and unskilled. Volunteers comfortable with power tools were able to cut and shape things like wood, rebar, foam insulation, etc. Those unskilled folks (that would be me!) were kept busy with all kinds of things. Throughout the week I made concrete by hand, with a tumbler, scooped sand, carried particle board and roofing tiles up to the second floor, tied rebar, cleared out all the demolition rubbish from a side room, sanded foam walls for the drywall placement, cleared off a roof space, and transported SO much concrete in buckets up to the roof.

It was often tough and I was basically always sweating, but it was good work with lots of variety. We got snack each day and lunch at a restaurant (certainly not the greatest, and unfortunately I think an undercooked omelet gave me a terrible travelers bug that lasted almost three weeks!) and typically wrapped up our work day at 4:30.

Two nights that week they took us into Braga. The first night included a thorough and lovely tour of Braga, and then dinner. Another night was just dinner. Both of the restaurants were lovely – Colher D’Pau Taberna and Retrokitchen. They both had great food and excellent service (especially since we were a loud, huge group!). If you spend time in Braga, highly recommend either of these!

Day 10 – Tourism Day with Fuller Center

After our last day of work on Friday, we were treated to a day of tourism coordinated by the Fuller Center. We started the morning with a trip to Bom Jesus do Monte for the amazing views and truly beautiful cathedral with unique steps. I had been waiting forever to see this and it did not disappoint.

Steps of Bom Jesus

Afterward, we hopped the bus to the small town of Guimarães – apparently a long term rival to Braga – and the supposed birthplace of Portugal. There we received a tour of the town. I would have loved to explore it more thoroughly, there were so many little squares full of cute shops and seating. Very cute spot. We had lunch at Churrasqueira do Toural. I wasn’t feeling well so I can’t comment on the food but the others seemed to enjoy it.

Day 11 – Porto

Marjorie and I took out time heading out of the Fuller guesthouse and were able to hop a long-ish Uber ride all the way to Porto. We were still too early to check into our airbnb so we opted to go to Floresta Cafe for brunch. This spot is delightful, don’t hesitate to get their caramel latte (or, literally, anything. All so good!).

Porto – under Ponte Luis I

We hung out near the river until we were able to get into our airbnb. It was easily one of my favorite airbnbs ever (and I’ve had a lot of amazing airbnbs!) The location is *chef’s kiss* right on the Praça da Ribeira with the most incredible view ever.

view from our airbnb!

I would literally live in this apartment in a heartbeat. I would have loved Porto regardless but having this as our home base gave us such a beautiful and relaxed perspective. Even though we were tired from a week of hard work, we wasted no time exploring Porto. We exercised our calf muscles and climbed to the Church of Saint Frances.

Church of Saint Frances

Then we crossed over the top of the bridge (Ponte Luis I). It’s such a breathtaking spot and well worth walking across. We went all the way past the fun Gaia neighborhood park (Jardim do Morro) and checked out the Miradouro da Serra do Pilar.

Jardim do Morro

While not a dramatically different view than the bridge itself, I still found it worth the walk. It was lovely to just stand there and enjoy the view and breeze.

Afterwards we walked to get dinner at Mille Pinsa. The location was a little run down but the big windows provided fun indoor/outdoor seating on a very busy road so people watching was A+. Their gluten free pizza was also really quite tasty. Gelato afterwards at Glanni was a nice choice.

Day 12 – Porto Exploration

We started our morning getting completely bamboozled by the country’s worst tourist trap (yes, even worse than Pena Palace!). If you’ve googled anything about what to do in Porto, I’m sure you’ve heard about the “world’s most beautiful bookstore,” Livraria Lello. As someone who literally goes to as many bookstores as possible, this felt like a must do. But – no – it was truly awful. Just like with Pena Palace, they required timed entry but they didn’t limit the tickets nearly enough. We were packed into the space like sardines.

torture

Despite being absurdly claustrophobic, it made it impossible to see this supposedly beautiful bookstore (honestly, I found it mid) and forget about getting a decent picture. On top of that the book selection was truly bizarre. It was awful and I do not recommend it at all. If you absolutely must go, I recommend booking the very last entry on the hope that you’ll be able to linger long enough to get a decent picture out of it. Otherwise avoid this at all costs.

good luck getting a glimpse of the staircase

We stumbled out of the bookstore thoroughly traumatized and sat at the outdoor space at Zenith for brunch. Their food and daily juice did absolute wonders for soothing our spirit. You 100% need to go there instead of the bookstore, I’m telling you.

life-changing juice at Zenith

After Zenith we wandered around Porto, taking in a few sites, pictures of architecture, etc. We did a good amount of window shopping (you have to find something cork to buy in Portugal!) We did pay to enter Porto Cathedral which felt worth it as the inside courtyard has some really beautiful blue tile walls.

Porto Cathedral

After a rest in our airbnb and more wandering we found ourself at Vermuteria for dinner. We loved this little gastropub on such a perfect street with lots and lots of food options. Just be careful how hard you laugh or a Dos Equis doppelganger might give you the stink eye all night.

Cândido dos Reis – restaurant row

Also -this cute little spot was right in front of Bertrand, a much more pleasing, if normal, bookstore. After dinner we stopped at Boutique Do Gelato which was decent but not even close to as good as the place across the street, Gelatopia. Epic rivals, I’m sure.

Day 13 – Final Day in Porto

Admittedly, a third day in Porto isn’t entirely necessary but we ran into strange flight situations so we made the most of it. Brunch at Floresta again before walking over to the Porto sign and grabbing a picture. Then we wanted through a few other neighborhoods that were a little more off the beaten path which was really lovely. It felt so nice to just soak in the city.

We wander the Formosa neighborhood, lots of people and places to see. I grabbed a pastel de nata at Manteigaria – very good. We also popped into the Mercado do Bolhão just down the street which felt to us like a much more organized/cleaner version of the Boqueria in Barcelona – take that as you will.

pastel de nata

Midday we came back to the airbnb to rest and grabbed food at Bite, which felt like a must as it was literally under our airbnb. The food was good if small for the price but, unironically, a good place for a bite. We then started the walk across the river – we took the lower bridge path this time – to get to the Ferreira Caves to do a Port wine tasting. Because when in Porto, amirite?

The tour was pretty decent though it’s just the final storing part of the process so there isn’t a ton to see. But it was classy and interesting and it’s rounded out with a nice tasting. There are other tours but I actually liked that these caves were the further down from the bridge – it forced us to walk the entire distance which was beautiful and fun.

Overall – our time in Portugal was magical for so many reasons. The highlight, of course, was having the opportunity to support and build a very small portion of a home that will impact so many people. It felt good to put in some sweat equity, meet new people, and make a tiny change to the world. It gave us the opportunity to spend time in a part of Portugal we never would have seen as “just” tourists. I’m always grateful I can do these kinds of activities.

With the endless beauty of Lisbon’s tiled streets, Sintra’s incredible palaces, and Porto’s insane views and I’d go back to Portugal in a heartbeat.

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