We all have our favorite spots in the world. For me, Bosnia is absolutely one of them. I cannot wait to spend even more time in the Balkans in the future. If you want a unique, still low on the list for most tourists, but stunning and very easy to navigate spot, this country is for you.
Day 1: Travel
I will admit, travel to Bosnia is a smidge tricky. This is only because we didn’t have any direct flights from New York nor Chicago and layover options were also dicey. Marjorie and I decided to be creative and opted for a “long layover” in Poland so we could line up our flights to Bosnia together and also explore Poland a bit.
Marjorie arrived earlier this day but I didn’t until the late afternoon. We opted to stay in the more “up and coming” area of Warsaw, at the Moxy Praga. It was an easy spot for Marjorie to do a working day. I bopped around the cute area in the evening and grabbed dinner at Toast.
This restaurant was much nicer than I expected but I really enjoyed my little meal and drink before heading back to the hotel room and absolutely crashing for the night.
Day 2: Explore Warsaw
Marjorie had to spend one more day working New York hours so we did a morning free walking tour of Warsaw. I actually really liked the city – I thought it looked really nice to live there. However, I have to admit that, as a tourist, it was on the boring side. The unfortunate realities of war and how much had to be rebuilt. Still, the tour was interesting and a great way to get the layout of the city.
We had lunch at a truly delicious Lebanese restaurant, Le Cedre 61. I thought I would maybe explore a little more once Marjorie starting working for the evening but I ended up hanging around the hotel. It was a chilly day and all the sites remaining to see that we didn’t cover on our walking tour didn’t feel worth it and/or weren’t open so late in the year (rooftop gardens, etc)
We did opt for a hot chocolate flight near our hotel which like… how could we not? We also found our very on this day that the tour I had booked to Auschwitz (one of my lifelong bucket list spots) was going to need an absurd pick up time of 3am so we tried to get to sleep early.
Day 3: Auschwitz and Krakow
Auschwitz is about a four hour drive from Warsaw but I honestly assumed I would never be back to Poland so I knew I needed to take advantage of the proximity. Looking back, I would have figured out a different way to do it as the drive length plus the early pick up definitely dampened the experience.
That being said, I’m still glad I went and saw what so many of us in the US learn about multiple times throughout our schooling. Auschwitz was, in many ways, everything I expected and also completely different. I found the tour set up lacking in many ways. The sheer volume of tourists allowed in the spaces at one time made it hard to hear any of the guide and any of the displays with pictures or descriptions were always blocked by people. I understand the popularity of the experience but I hope they are able to limit more in the future.
Even with the dynamics of tourism, it was impossible not to feel the reality of the horror of such a place. I found it really hit me when we went the mile down the road to Birkenau where there was space to move at more of our own pace. Seeing the rail road and feeling the warm breeze felt jarring. The guide was finally silent to allow us to just experience the space. It was deeply moving.
After Auschwitz, we were able to spend a couple hours in nearby Krakow which is definitely a gem of a city.
After we were dropped off to explore, we stopped at Na Brackiej to eat. The food was delightful and the place was absolutely adorable. We then wandered the city, exploring the old and beautiful square and doing a little shopping. We didn’t have time on this trip but Krakow is absolutely worth an overnight stop.
Then it was a long drive back to Warsaw and to the Moxy for the night.
Day 4: Travel to Bosnia and Sarajevo Tour
The Warsaw airport is easy to navigate and we were able to catch our flight to Sarajevo with no issues. We had found ourselves a city tour, the Total Siege Tour, that offered an airport pick up. This started our strategy for the trip – combining tours with travel. It worked beautifully.
This Siege Tour is quite possible this was one of the best tours I’ve ever taken. I’ve traveled to many places that had experienced war and strife – obviously, we literally came from Auschwitz the day before – but nothing has quite humbled and hit me like Bosnia, and this particular tour, did.
First, it was led by a man named Edo. He was 53 and a veteran of the Bosnian War. He was able to tell us about remembering the 1984 Olympics, held in a thriving Sarajevo. Then he was in the war and siege from 1991-1995. And then there was now, where Sarajevo is again a beautiful city of diverse cultures and hosting tourists. Insane.
We got to tour the Tunnel of Life that the Bosnians built under the airport/no man’s land.
He was able to talk about how the UN had to take people back who were trying to escape the endless siege of the city since they had to be “neutral”. The citizens were just trying to escape the constant bombardment and snipers. The tunnel was critical to the city being able to hold out. Learning about this from Edo was incredible – he himself went through the tunnel multiple times, including being carried through after he had been shot in the chest and stomach.
He was constantly pointing out Serbian held areas that had bunkers. Bullet holes in facades were everywhere as well as the “Sarajevo roses” which are where they filled in the mortar shell holes with red resin to honor victims.
We went to the old bobsled track for the Olympics which had been converted into a bunker for the war and now is a place for graffiti art. It was raining and we were soaked but I found it absolutely fascinating. He also took us to the cemetery which had doubled as as bunker for the Serbians as well.
After the tour Edo very kindly drove us way too far up the ancient, steep one lane roads to get us as close as possible to our airbnb. This spot was absolutely adorable with the nicest hosts ever (honestly, I could say that about everyone we met in Bosnia).
Day 5: Day Tour to Jajce, Travnik, and Pliva Lake
We rose early (always a general theme) to take a day trip to some of the most iconic views in the Bosnian country. It was another rainy day, but thankfully the rain happened primarily while we were in the van. Admittedly, the drive time was longer than I would have liked but our stops were definitely impressive.
We, get again, had a very cool guide in Gigi who was, literally, an Olympian. In the midst of the siege, he participated in the 1994 Bobsled race in Oslo. He was a wildly eccentric human which made our tour very memorable. As did the eclectic group of two Swedes, two Poles, two Italians, and us!
In the morning we took a long drive (almost three hours) to Jajce. There was a lot to see there – waterfalls and watermills, plus a beautiful lake. We also went to Travnik which had a fortress and a colorful mosque. There I had my first taste of Cevapi at Cevabdzinica Tenic where I immediately fell in love with the dish. I’m not even a big meat eater!
The tour was longer than we would have liked so while it was nice, I do think this is one that could be easily skipped. Or perhaps take the opportunity to stay overnight in Jajce to break it up and have time to really explore.
Day 6: Tour down to Mostar
Yes, another day tour but we were yet again able to pair this up with our necessary travel needs as, instead of making it a day trip, we were able to end in Mostar, our next destination.
We had a very quick stop in Konjic to take a picture of the old bridge and then continued on to the Dervish House which was truly beautiful both inside and out. We were also able to take a quick walk up to the walls of a old Ottoman town and got the absolute best views over the valley.
We finally got some sunshine just in time for us to visit the Kravica Waterfalls which was ridiculously cool. We didn’t opt into the swimming and instead got some refreshment in the sunshine.
Finally we made it to Mostar where we got a quick tour of the tour before they dropped us off practically on the doorstop to our airbnb. Bosnians do not skimp on their hospitality, I’m telling you.
Our airbnb spot was perfect – easily walkable to the old town and the train station. It was also just down the street from Blok Bar which we went to more than once. It was so convenient to our location and exceptionally reasonably priced. They had the equivalent of ~$3 cocktails. I really loved Bosnia.
Day 7: Exploring Mostar
We finally had a day without a packed agenda and it was perfectly timed with gorgeous weather. We spent the day wandering early through Old Town which was fun as nothing was open yet.
We were able to get a table at the absolute cutest and instagrammable place above the Old Mostar bridge, Cardak. It was the best spot for Bosnian coffee and a little sweet treat.
The shopping here was fabulous and we stocked up on lotions and souvenirs and art. We had a massive and delicious lunch at Urban which had an incredible view on the lovely terrace.
More wandering and gelato in the evening at Sky. This town is just as magical as everyone says it is.
Day 8: Exploring more of Mostar
We had another free day here at I think we really made the most of it. We opted to wander further away from Old Town and it was still beautiful. First we stopped by the famous sniper tower (former bank location). You can’t go in, but it’s covered in art.
There is a whole promenade really near the famous sniper tower where I took advantage of a woman giving out Free Hugs. Along the promenade there are still completely destroyed buildings. But also so much that has been repaired has been done artistically, instead of erasing.
We did circle back to see Old Town one more time and stopped for coffee at the beautiful space of Fabrika on recommendation from our airbnb host. Very worth it.
In the afternoon we decided to explore Fortica Hill for its incredible viewpoint. We took a taxi up to save time but then walked the full hour down the hill which was really energizing and beautiful.
We also stopped at the cutest little pizzeria (Sara) for dinner and the sunset.
It ended up being a chill and easy day where we really saw more of the city. I feel like we truly saw Mostar and had truly endless amounts of positive interactions with the citizens of Mostar. They were all so lovely.
Day 9: Travel back to Sarajevo
We hopped a very early train back to Sarajevo. It’s a beautiful ride but it was also rainy/foggy so we didn’t see as much of it as we did on the way down in the van. Still, it was comfortable and we were able to go straight to the Hotel Sana to check in. While not the most up to date hotels we’ve been in, it was convenient and the staff was nice.
Then we walked – we really wanted to explore and see Sarajevo since we had so little time the first night we stayed. We had a couple coffee shop stops and I was finally able to try burek. Even though we went to the most famous location, I wasn’t very impressed, to be honest.
But I did find the city immensely impressive. I love the split of east/west vibes. All the shopping and people in one area. And of course the river and beautiful bridges spanning them as well.
Day 10: Travel Home
Our flights didn’t quite match up so I did have to travel home before Marjorie, but there was an easy bus to walk to so I did – though I am very jealous of the extra time she got in this beautiful country.
I loved Bosnia and everything I saw there. The cities and country were gorgeous. The people were all so unbelievable kind. Add in the fascinating and moving history and it’s a place I cannot wait to go back to.
The Roaming Reader 